Removing front rotors | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Removing front rotors

mechtechjoe

New Member
Joined
February 18, 2004
Messages
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City, State
El Segundo, Ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer 4Dr AWD
My wife's 98 AWD V8 XLT is sitting in the driveway on jacks for the last two days because I can't figure out how to remove the rotors to have them turned. As far as I can tell, one 1-3/16 nut holds the rotor/hub assembly on the axle. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 



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if you have removed the caliper assembly already, you just slide the rotor right off. the first time it is usually rusted on a little will take a few hits with a hammer. check to see if you have any of those little thin washers around a stud holding the rotor in place.

but yeah, if you have the brakes off, just take the hammer to the rotor. it will come off.
 






There is also a cotter pin that runs through the nut. Make sure this isnt still on there or your nuts are going no where :rolleyes:
 






jasonb - What holds the rotor in place so when the brakes are applied the wheel assembly doesn't turn? This AWD hub assembly is puzzling. I took the wheel off, then the calipers and their mounting brackets. What you're saying is that the rotor needs a good whack? I could see this working for a 2WD X but what about AWD? Thanks
 






yes, the axle nut doesn't hold the rotor on. it only keeps the CVs in the hub assembly. the only thing holding the rotor in place is the wheel and lug nuts honestly. when you tighten the lugs with the wheel on, it keeps the rotor in place. so yes, just get a rubber mallet or 2x4 or something and smack on the rotor a few times on the outside and it will break free.

NOTE: this is assuming the AWD share the same componentry as the 4WD up front, which i don't see why it wouldn't.
 






O.K. I'll give it a try! I'll post the results tonight. Thanks for the replies.
 






jasonb - You were right! It took 20 min. of pounding and rotating but they finally came off. Ran out of time to do the tune-up, so that will have to wait for another day. Thanks again for the input.
 






glad you got it taken care of.
 






I have a 99 AWD, I cant get the rotor off at all, even went so far as to start to take the nuts out of the hub assembly.

In any case is there somthing Im missing, there was a large nut in the middle of the rotor, I removed it, beat on the rotor a bit, but nothing, wont even wiggle

HELP.
 






bdf said:
I have a 99 AWD, I cant get the rotor off at all, even went so far as to start to take the nuts out of the hub assembly.

In any case is there somthing Im missing, there was a large nut in the middle of the rotor, I removed it, beat on the rotor a bit, but nothing, wont even wiggle

HELP.

Removing the spindle nut wasn't neccessary (i'm sure you had fun getting that off the first time :D ). Just keep pounding. They are floating rotors, once the caliper is off, there is nothing holding the rotor on (4WD and AWD models).
 






Are you sure, I have beat the hell out of them and pryed like hell.

I have to knock the studs for the lugs out after that right?

the center nut was no big deal.

So the splines in the center that the shaft is in is freely moving in and out, how does all that work? the rotor does not sit on the lug studs, how does it rotate with the axle?

thanks
 






4wd and AWD are the same front drivetrain. The rotors are not floating rotors, but they are just sandwiched between the wheel and the hub flange. The back-side of the rotor corrodes to the hub flange and they're a pain to separate.

The trick I've found works best is to use a three-jaw puller to put pressure against the rotor. Then, once the puller is tight, give the *hat* part of the rotor a couple of good whacks. It doesn't usually take more than a couple of hits to pop it loose.

A thin layer of anti-seize on the back side of the rotor where it makes contact with the hub flange will prevent that from happening again.

There is no need to remove the spindle nut. Nothing holds it in place except the pre-load on the nut (i.e. there is no cotter pin). It is a *squash-nut* and is only supposed to be used once. Many people use them over again, but they're only about $3 for a new one, so I always replace them.

-Joe
 












Papa said:
Try this link.
My 1st Gen front Brake job Diary
This is an excellent guide for brakes even if it is for a 4-wheel drive. Great pictures and captions.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696


That's a great write-up, but completely and totally non-applicable for a '98. A 98 4x4 is completely and totally, 100% different. The rotor is sandwitched between the wheel and the hub. Remove the wheel, remove the two caliper anchor plate retaining bolts, hang the caliper and anchor plate with a piece of wire so it's not hanging by the hose, and the rotor *should* fall off (although it seldom does thanks to rust).

If everything goes well, it should take about an hour for both sides.

-Joe
 






Hello!! I also have replaced my rotors on my 93 Explorer. I am trying to get the last half snap ring back on and it wont go on!!! I have read the 1st generation brake diary... and everything else went as it said... except this part. I'm hoping that someone here will be able to to tell me what is the problem.....
 






If you are turning a rotor then you should never hit the part of the rotor that the pad rides on... When turning a rotor the only place you should hit it is where the wheel mounts to, If you hit somewhere else it could cause warping and replacement of the rotor.
 






Ok.... so when I finally got the last snap ring back on.. and driving again, there is now a problem with the anti lock brakes.. it keeps makes that antilock brake noise, its every single time and only when it is alllllmost stopped. Any ideas what this problem is and how to fix it???
 






Ok.... so when I finally got the last snap ring back on.. and driving again, there is now a problem with the anti lock brakes.. it keeps makes that antilock brake noise, its every single time and only when it is alllllmost stopped. Any ideas what this problem is and how to fix it???

probably one of the wheel sensors were disturbed. First check if they are clean and seated properly. Disconnect the wire, connect an ohm meter and wiggle the ends. Look for any intermittant issues.
 






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