How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

[Kys-Ry]

2006 explorer xlt

Just wanted to ask if this repair would work on a 2006 explorer with the transmission leaver in the centre consol. Is the blender located in the same place?

 

[BigRondo]

Just wanted to ask if this repair would work on a 2006 explorer with the transmission leaver in the centre consol. Is the blender located in the same place?

I can't say as I am not familiar with the '06. Check the 4th gen sub forum. I know it has been discussed over there.

Good luck getting it sorted.

 

[Husky1987]

thanks

just wanted to say thanks to everyone who's posted tips and how to on changing that actuator. mine went out yesterday in my 05 explorer. went to the dealership after I got of work and bought the new one. went home and about 3 hours later it was in, working, and the car put back together!! not to bad for someone who's never done this before!
again thanks!

 

[BigRondo]

Nicely done. Glad I could help out!

 

[mrericshields]

Hey BigRondo, gonna sound like a total noob, but where are the pictures? I can see your how to guide perfectly, but there aren't any pics...

 

[BigRondo]

Hey BigRondo, gonna sound like a total noob, but where are the pictures? I can see your how to guide perfectly, but there aren't any pics...

Pictures are showing up for me. Check the settings on your computer. I know that others have had issues seeing the pictures when using work computers.

 

[da2962]

Just checked on mine and the pictures are all there. Takes some time to load them but that's probably my slow PC

 

[JoeR]

Yet another huge thanks to Big Rondo. Without your help (and pictures) I'm not sure I would have ever found the darned actuator--or all the screws holding console, etc. There were also a couple moments where I might have decided I was on a fools errand if I didn't know that so many had succeeded (jiggling the actuator out, especially; I finally figured out that it needs to be moved up really high to get it out.) If someone with my big hands (I have to order Mechanix gloves in XXL) can do this, you can too. Doing some yoga before getting started might help, too.

If you're worried about cutting the dash, don't worry. Just as the picture shows, you have to really get down and look to see it after you're done. The one thing I wondered is just where to cut it. In my case, I started the cut about 2" from the firewall end of the piece, and the total cut was 4.5". But since it's all hidden so well, I don't think it makes much difference.

This went so well, I was inspired to tackle the clicking rear actuator too. That's an easier job, though it's more nerve racking (and tough on the fingers) pulling away all the trim pieces.

Thanks again!

 

[Dora_TheExplorer]

I'm having an issue in the front middle vent where only the driver side blows cold and both the middle and side passenger vents blow warm. Will this correct that issue?
thanks.

-Mike

 

[BigRondo]

Yet another huge thanks to Big Rondo. Without your help (and pictures) I'm not sure I would have ever found the darned actuator--or all the screws holding console, etc. There were also a couple moments where I might have decided I was on a fools errand if I didn't know that so many had succeeded (jiggling the actuator out, especially; I finally figured out that it needs to be moved up really high to get it out.) If someone with my big hands (I have to order Mechanix gloves in XXL) can do this, you can too. Doing some yoga before getting started might help, too.

If you're worried about cutting the dash, don't worry. Just as the picture shows, you have to really get down and look to see it after you're done. The one thing I wondered is just where to cut it. In my case, I started the cut about 2" from the firewall end of the piece, and the total cut was 4.5". But since it's all hidden so well, I don't think it makes much difference.

This went so well, I was inspired to tackle the clicking rear actuator too. That's an easier job, though it's more nerve racking (and tough on the fingers) pulling away all the trim pieces.

Thanks again!

Joe, I'm glad to help.

I will be tackling the rear actuator as well and will be using this thread as a guide: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205370

Got any words of wisdom?

 

[mrericshields]

Pictures are showing up for me. Check the settings on your computer. I know that others have had issues seeing the pictures when using work computers.

You are correct sir, it was a work computer issue. Just checked on my phone and it loaded with the pics just fine. Should be good with my home laptop. Thanks again for everything!

 

[JBorghoff]

This saved me a bundle!

Thanks so much for this post. So glad I found it. Instructions were spot on, and I somehow got the actuator out without having to cut away that section under the dash. Part cost me $54, so I saved over $700 doing this repair myself. Awesome!

 

[Reindeer]

Just wanted to give a big thanks to BigRondo for this writeup. I did the job on a 2005 Mountaineer over the weekend, and your instructions were spot on.

Was able to do it without cutting into the dash. Was able to get at the two lower screws on the actuator with a 5/16 box end wrench (Why standard when everything else is metric?), the upper rear with an 8mm socket/extension. For some reason Ford/Mercury didn't bother with the forward upper screw when they assembled this vehicle which made life a whole lot easier!

Only thing I can add is that it does make the job a bit easier to remove the front driver's seat. Had to pull it anyways to fix another problem with the vehicle blowing fuses. Turns out that the insulation on the wires for the lumbar support switch were chaffing against the seat frame and wore through.

Anyway, thanks again!

 

[BigRondo]

I'm having an issue in the front middle vent where only the driver side blows cold and both the middle and side passenger vents blow warm. Will this correct that issue?
thanks.

-Mike

Welcome aboard Mike!!

It sounds like you have the EATC and not the manual controls. The EATC has 2 blend door actuators, 1 for the driver side, and 1 for the passenger side.

It is possible that 1 of you actuators is bad. I recommend doing a search for more information before swapping out the actuator.

Good luck getting it sorted.

Please keep us posted as feedback helps others reading this post looking for a fix to the same or similar issue!

 

[BigRondo]

You are correct sir, it was a work computer issue. Just checked on my phone and it loaded with the pics just fine. Should be good with my home laptop. Thanks again for everything!

Good deal and good luck with the fix!!

 

[BigRondo]

Thanks so much for this post. So glad I found it. Instructions were spot on, and I somehow got the actuator out without having to cut away that section under the dash. Part cost me $54, so I saved over $700 doing this repair myself. Awesome!

Welcome aboard!!

You're welcome. Nice work getting it sorted. Enjoy the heat this winter. :fire:

 

[BigRondo]

Just wanted to give a big thanks to BigRondo for this writeup. I did the job on a 2005 Mountaineer over the weekend, and your instructions were spot on.

Was able to do it without cutting into the dash. Was able to get at the two lower screws on the actuator with a 5/16 box end wrench (Why standard when everything else is metric?), the upper rear with an 8mm socket/extension. For some reason Ford/Mercury didn't bother with the forward upper screw when they assembled this vehicle which made life a whole lot easier!

Only thing I can add is that it does make the job a bit easier to remove the front driver's seat. Had to pull it anyways to fix another problem with the vehicle blowing fuses. Turns out that the insulation on the wires for the lumbar support switch were chaffing against the seat frame and wore through.

Anyway, thanks again!

Welcome aboard!!

You're welcome. I'm glad to help.

 

[jobog]

Thank you, thank you, thank you. My daughter has a 2003 Explorer and this same problem popped up. The actuator from the Ford dealer here in South Bend was $85.00. Been in the low 30's and 20's here so the problem needed to be fixed. My daughter and I tackled this problem last night and with her doing the work and my scrolling the pictures on the computer she managed to complete this job in 2 hours which included a thorough vacuuming of the carpet aroung the console. Didn't need to cut anything and the upper rear screw was non-existant. She felt great about being able to do the fix and I'm really proud of her. I couldn't help much as I have severe neuropathy in my hands from some chemo I am taking.

Again, thanks for the excellent instructions.

Joe Bogucki

 

[BigRondo]

Thank you, thank you, thank you. My daughter has a 2003 Explorer and this same problem popped up. The actuator from the Ford dealer here in South Bend was $85.00. Been in the low 30's and 20's here so the problem needed to be fixed. My daughter and I tackled this problem last night and with her doing the work and my scrolling the pictures on the computer she managed to complete this job in 2 hours which included a thorough vacuuming of the carpet aroung the console. Didn't need to cut anything and the upper rear screw was non-existant. She felt great about being able to do the fix and I'm really proud of her. I couldn't help much as I have severe neuropathy in my hands from some chemo I am taking.

Again, thanks for the excellent instructions.

Joe Bogucki

You are very welcome!!

Enjoy the heat :fire: this winter.

Good luck to you Joe!!!

Happy Thanksgiving.

 

[grumpyirishman]

BigRondo,

Thanks so much for posting this. Because of your detail I was brave enough to tackle this on my 2006 Eddie Bauer. But it was infinitely easier on my car. It's got the floor shifter / console so I was worried about that. In the end, all you have to do is pop off a trim panel down by the gas pedal, drop the lower dash panel, remove that bracket and have at it! No cutting and nothing else to remove. There is room between the actuator and the inside of the dash to get at the screws and pull the thing out. You do need the 6 inch extension to get to the top back and front screws. And taping the screws to the socket when putting them back in is a must, thanks for that tip, too.

The actuator from the local Ford dealer cost $98 with tax. Took me about an hour, not including the Bud Light.