Replace just the bearing? or hub assembly?

[Johnny Glenn]

I sell a few 02/03 Explorers a month and I've noticed that most of them have bearing issues. I've replaced hub assemblies in the past but is it possible just to replace the bearing only? Thanks.

 

[Johnny Glenn]

Any help, anyone? I'm asking about rear wheel bearings - do you have to replace hub assembly or just bearing? Thanks.

 

[Carguy3J]

Any help, anyone? I'm asking about rear wheel bearings - do you have to replace hub assembly or just bearing? Thanks.

Don't cheap out on this and give used car guys a bad name. If the numbers don't support doing it right (especially since you now know it's a common issue), then don't buy the vehicle to begin with.

02/03 explorers don't really have a hub "assembly" in the same way that the front is a hub "assembly" That said, most parts stores will still the rear as an assembly or kit, and it would come with a new bearing , and a seperate piece that is sometimes called a "hub" but is really just the wheel flange/lugs and a "stub" shaft that gets pressed into the bearing.
Do you HAVE to replace both? Maybe not, but it's a really good idea, and the right way to do it. If the bearing is worn, then the "hub" is prob also worn.

Autozone Part# HA590259K for Timken brand. They also have the valuecraft brand for a little less, but I tried to avoid valuecraft. You can also try rockauto.com

 

[Johnny Glenn]

I don't think there's nothing I can do to make or break car guys reps -- but I try to sell these @ the right price etc and fix as much as I can beforehand. The last "assembly" was 125 range and I believe the bearing is only $40 with a press being required for either job. Is there a way to know if "hub" is also worn? Thanks for the advice.

 

[Carguy3J]

I don't think there's nothing I can do to make or break car guys reps -- but I try to sell these @ the right price etc and fix as much as I can beforehand. The last "assembly" was 125 range and I believe the bearing is only $40 with a press being required for either job. Is there a way to know if "hub" is also worn? Thanks for the advice.

$125 is a good price. No, I don't think there is a real reliable way to be sure that the old one is ok. I mean, it's obvious if it's totaly trashed, but remember, like any 2 mated parts, they will develop a wear pattern together over time. Mixing used and new in such a close tolerance application is just asking for premature failure. Like you said, either way, you still have to do the same labor. Better to do it only once. Often the "hub"/flange part ends up getting damaged in the process of removing a stubborn bearing anyway.

 

[Joe Dirt]

With the history of the Gen III's and bearing issues, I think you'd be ahead replacing the whole shebang and telling the buyer that they've been replaced- after telling them about the issues with bearings in a lot of old Gen III Ex's and that you're leveling with them. That'll get you further along to getting your price- at least for a knowladgeable car buyer. Just my .02

 

[Carguy3J]

With the history of the Gen III's and bearing issues, I think you'd be ahead replacing the whole shebang and telling the buyer that they've been replaced- after telling them about the issues with bearings in a lot of old Gen III Ex's and that you're leveling with them. That'll get you further along to getting your price- at least for a knowladgeable car buyer. Just my .02

 

[steverae]

Just did some this morning. If you have a good vice/press then just the bearing is easy enough. I sell a lot of these, too.

 

[alexk]

^^How far away is your dealer from Central NJ? Looking to switch mine out for an eddie bauer.

 

[jrford]

i'd do both, that way you get new wheel studs and flange. When they get old the rim doesn't sit just right on the flange, might cause a vibration later which would be a pain to track down.