Replaced Camshaft Syncronizer & Sensor, But Now Won't Start, Only Turns Over

[ArtTruex]

To start at the beginning, my son's 1996 Explorer XLT V8 5.0 oil pressure guage went to zero as he was leaving the house the other day, so he put it back in the driveway. Just prior to replacing the oil pump to solve this problem (which I found out required the engine to be pulled out to do), I decided to take out the camshaft syncronizer shaft to see if I could get at the oil pump hex shaft. When I pulled out the camshaft syncronizer, the pin on the gear sheared off. It appeared to me that this occurred because the shaft did not turn freely (I could only turn the shaft by turned it with a pair of pliers, and even then it was hard to turn). I put a socket on the oil pump shaft and it turned freely. Today, I purchased a new camshaft syncronizer and it turned very freely in contrast to the old one. After putting it in and putting everything back together, the engine start up fine and the oil pressure guage read normal. I then decided to change the oil, oil filter and anti-freeze so I then pulled it up on my ramps, and did so. Upon completion, it would no longer start. It turns over, but does not fire up. I can hear the fuel pump kick when the key is turned on and when listening through the gas filler port. I can hear and feel the relay under the hood click when the key is turned on. Subsequently, I replaced the fuel filter. I also purchased a fuel pressure test guage and the pressure from the fuel rail was right at 40. I also uplugged a spark plug and took multiple shocks to my hand when my son turned it over. At this point, it appears I have both spark and fuel, but the engine won't start. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Turdle]

Does the oil pressure gauge come up as the engine is cranked?

 

[ArtTruex]

No it does not.

 

[Turdle]

First, check that you didn't bump the oil pressure sender wire and disconnect it-
However, it sounds like the oil pump is not being driven--if the pcm sees no oil presure, this would prevent startup.

I wonder if the gear sheared off again.

edit, if you didn't fill the oil filter when you changed the oil, it may take a bit of cranking to get the oil pressure built back up.

 

[ArtTruex]

I will check that out tomorrow and reply with what I find. Thanks.

 

[2000StreetRod]

CMP sensor alignment

. . . I decided to take out the camshaft syncronizer shaft to see if I could get at the oil pump hex shaft. When I pulled out the camshaft syncronizer, the pin on the gear sheared off. It appeared to me that this occurred because the shaft did not turn freely (I could only turn the shaft by turned it with a pair of pliers, and even then it was hard to turn). I put a socket on the oil pump shaft and it turned freely. Today, I purchased a new camshaft syncronizer and it turned very freely in contrast to the old one. . .

Did your new CMP sensor come with an alignment tool? I've been told that the 5.0 V8 will run with a bad CMP sensor but it may be hard to start. The CMP sensor allows the PCM to determine when to open the injectors so that the spray emits just as the intake valve is opening. If the CMP sensor is not aligned then the fuel charge may be "stale" in the head intake port resulting in hard starting and poor performance. If you marked the orientation of the drive assembly prior to removal then replacement can be accomplished without the alignment tool. Otherwise, the alignment tool greatly simplifies the timing of the CMP sensor. Make sure that the oil pump intermediate shaft is aligned in the oil pump correctly or the engine will have no oil pressure. Some of the aftermarket drive assemblies do not fit properly. See this thread: cam syncro gone wrong

 

[ArtTruex]

Well I couldn't rest so I went back out to work on it in the cold and dark. I took off the camshaft position sensor, had my wife turn it over, and what do you know? The shaft was not turning!!! I am guessing the pin which holds the gear in place sheared off again. I am no mechanic, but I figure I may be down to the point that the oil pump needs replaced. I don't know what else could have caused the pin the shear off again. If I am down to having a new oil pump put in, do you really have to take the motor out, or just lift it up a little, or something in between? What do you all think now? Thanks again.

P.S. 2000StreetRod - Yes I did position #1 piston TDC on the compression stroke and used the alignment tool. Thanks.

 

[Turdle]

it has been noted the dorman replacement sych drive has a weaker pin--

check post 19 here--

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260979&highlight=sensor

Stic-o also had a new dorman replacement shear the pin. Once a good Motorcraft unit was installed he had no further issues that I am aware of.

 

[Stic-o]

That's correct The dorman only lasted a few hundred miles, then I found myself doing 70mph in the fast lane with no oil presure You should be able to check it because the center piece will spin or pull right out of the unit.

 

[ArtTruex]

Well now I don't know what to do. Either buy a Motorcraft brand Camshaft Synchronizer, replace the oil pump or what??? Would it be possible or appropriate for me to place another heavier pin through the gear??? When I turned the oil pump shaft by hand using a long extension and deepwell socket buy hand, it turned somewhat easily, but with some resistence, and it would even spin the extension backwards when I let go of it. Don't know how much resistance there should be. Any advice or recommendations where I should go from here. The Dorman that I bought today only last for one start-up. Thanks everyone.

 

[Turdle]

I would be tempted to try a stronger pin if it could be found.
The oil pump will have some resistance.

Once this is completed, Install a true oil pressure sender and gauge, so you can monitor the oil pressure accurately.
The stock sender is merely a 5 psi switch.

 

[pauls927]

I recently had to change my CPS and was only able to find a Dorman part locally. After reading all the stories about sheared pins, I removed the pin from the original CPS and installed it into the Dorman unit. It can easily be removed with a small punch and hammer.

 

[ArtTruex]

Well I am about to go outside and work on this thing again. Will pull the CPS shaft and go to the parts store to try and find a pin. I was suprised to find that they do sell roll pins (according to their websites), but even more surprised, found out that they are made by Dorman, almost all of them, and some by Balkamp which appears to be connected to Dorman somehow. Anyway, I am considering getting a solid metal pin that will go in tight and put it in there. Will have to see what they have. Thanks for all the advise so far. Will update after I give this a try. Thanks to all. Your advise and information is greatly appreciated.

 

[ArtTruex]

Well the newest development is I can't get the synchronizer out that I just put in yesterday. It never ends. The outside of the housing spins freely when I turn it with my hand. As such, I guess the shaft in the middle is hanging up somewhere down in there. Now working on this problem.

 

[ArtTruex]

Well I still can't get the syncronizer out. Thinking about taking a steel cable, wrapping around the syncronizer and lifting straight up with a engine hoist. I already bent a pretty heavy crowbar prying on it and it just wouldn't come out. And before you ask, yes, I did take off the bolt and piece of metal that secures it down. Any advice? Thanks.