replaced water pump, now its blowing white smoke. 2018 explorer 3.5 non turbo. 99,700 miles when the waterpump went | Ford Explorer Forums

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replaced water pump, now its blowing white smoke. 2018 explorer 3.5 non turbo. 99,700 miles when the waterpump went

scot2

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Joined
August 29, 2024
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City, State
Arlington heights, Illinois
Year, Model & Trim Level
2018 xlt
2018 explorer 3.5 non turbo, 99,700 miles very good maintenance. driving home from Tulsa to Chicago, 95 degrees out, I'm 20 miles north of Champaign Il when the engine light came on. First time in 99,700 miles I've ever had a light. Pulled over asap, turned it off, checked oil, then saw the coolant leak on pass side behind the alternator. Always had this fear in the back of my mind at to when the waterpump would crap the bed.

Has it flat bed towed home, and started the disassembly process. I just retired in July so no hurry or stress, took 3 days taking my time. Went to my local Ford dealer and bought, intake and valve cover gaskets, 2 new phasers, primary and secondary chains, water pump, crankshaft sprocket, hyd tensioners, guides, stretch bolts, everything except the CVT's.


Luckily I have a good friend who is a Ford engine mechanic so he came by and did the timing, all 3 chains, phasers, etc. I re assembled everything else over the course of 3 days, again, no hurry. I did have to replace the passenger side engine mount as it leaked gycol when trying to reinstall it. I spent a few hours flushing out the oil pan, running a high strength magnet on a flex shaft to get any metal debris out, there was a very small amount. I poured a quart of cheap oil into the pan with the plug out to flush it. I poured 2 qts of 5-20 oil into the pan, pre-filled the oil filter, then topped it off.

I replaced all spark plugs and the thermostat too. I removed the fuel pump relay and cranked the engine 5 or 6 times to get oil into the tensioners and upper engine. Popped the fuse back in and she started immediately running smooth and quiet, idling at 650/700.

I put 50 easy miles on it then dropped the oil, replaced the filter and filled it with 5-20 full syn. The following morning on initial start up I saw a big cloud of white smoke, so I figured it was just residual fogging spray that I sprayed the top half of the engine with while it was open, burning off. I did a 100 mile highway drive with a sport mode drops thinking my catalytic converter may be clogged. Now every time I start it after its sat for a few hours white smoke. I've put a total of 220 miles since the repair, it idles and runs great....except for the smoke on start up only.

Can this be ANYTHING but a head gasket ??
 



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2018 explorer 3.5 non turbo, 99,700 miles very good maintenance. driving home from Tulsa to Chicago, 95 degrees out, I'm 20 miles north of Champaign Il when the engine light came on. First time in 99,700 miles I've ever had a light. Pulled over asap, turned it off, checked oil, then saw the coolant leak on pass side behind the alternator. Always had this fear in the back of my mind at to when the waterpump would crap the bed.

Has it flat bed towed home, and started the disassembly process. I just retired in July so no hurry or stress, took 3 days taking my time. Went to my local Ford dealer and bought, intake and valve cover gaskets, 2 new phasers, primary and secondary chains, water pump, crankshaft sprocket, hyd tensioners, guides, stretch bolts, everything except the CVT's.


Luckily I have a good friend who is a Ford engine mechanic so he came by and did the timing, all 3 chains, phasers, etc. I re assembled everything else over the course of 3 days, again, no hurry. I did have to replace the passenger side engine mount as it leaked gycol when trying to reinstall it. I spent a few hours flushing out the oil pan, running a high strength magnet on a flex shaft to get any metal debris out, there was a very small amount. I poured a quart of cheap oil into the pan with the plug out to flush it. I poured 2 qts of 5-20 oil into the pan, pre-filled the oil filter, then topped it off.

I replaced all spark plugs and the thermostat too. I removed the fuel pump relay and cranked the engine 5 or 6 times to get oil into the tensioners and upper engine. Popped the fuse back in and she started immediately running smooth and quiet, idling at 650/700.

I put 50 easy miles on it then dropped the oil, replaced the filter and filled it with 5-20 full syn. The following morning on initial start up I saw a big cloud of white smoke, so I figured it was just residual fogging spray that I sprayed the top half of the engine with while it was open, burning off. I did a 100 mile highway drive with a sport mode drops thinking my catalytic converter may be clogged. Now every time I start it after its sat for a few hours white smoke. I've put a total of 220 miles since the repair, it idles and runs great....except for the smoke on start up only.

Can this be ANYTHING but a head gasket ??
Update 8/30 4:19...I bought a $20 R.E.L.D. rapid engine leak detector kit. I know, but the reactive blue chemical in the kit DOES turn yellow/green when exposed to Co2.

I have 200 miles on the fresh oil and filter after doing the repair and after I flushed out the oil pan with degeaser, then fresh clean oil twice. PLEASE don't be a head gasket ! Now, to be forthcoming, I did use a fogging spray on the heads and front of engine because it was in a non AC shop and the temps were in the high 90's with 80% humidity while disassembled.

Had new oil and filter so I changed both. I could NOT believe the oil, it looked like it had 5,000+ miles on it, yet only 200. Idled up nice, topped off the oil and tried the $20 test. Note, IF you coolant reseviour is over full, the test will suck coolant into the reactive chemical. Level was at the low mark, I put the plug and tube into the rez, then added the blue liquid. I noticed after 5 mins or so that the blue fluid would bubble, rise an fall, but it never changed color. I let it sit for 15 mins, no change.

I marked my rez coolant level and will monitor it on my 1,000 mile R/T trip to Park Falls wisc. I will probably change the oil/filter when I return just to be sure. I will update this post
 






Hope it works out for you.
You said, I did have to replace the passenger side engine mount as it leaked gycol when trying to reinstall it.
I am confused, the engine mount leaked glycol? The motor mount?
 






How much did the parts cost you? I have two different estimates to do similar scope (coolant leaking at weep hole) $2200 labor and $3800 parts?
That a big hit, 2017 3.5 non turbo, 102K miles
 






Hope it works out for you.
You said, I did have to replace the passenger side engine mount as it leaked gycol when trying to reinstall it.
I am confused, the engine mount leaked glycol? The motor mount?
Yes, they are filled with glycol with a tracer dye. I thought I had pinched a trans cooler line, fluid looked just like trans fluid.

When I removed it there was fluid leaking out. I got a new mount, but you re use the bracket that attaches the mount to the 3 engine bolts.

So, had to pull the mount to gain access to remove the engine cover etc.
 






How much did the parts cost you? I have two different estimates to do similar scope (coolant leaking at weep hole) $2200 labor and $3800 parts?
That a big hit, 2017 3.5 non turbo, 102K miles
Parts were $960, that's with 20 % discount at the dealership. parts guys were great

Add anothe $100 for the eng mount, another $100 for 2 oil changes w/filter, overhead cam timing tool $50, crank pulley puller $30, new serpentine belt and new tensioner $120
 






Parts were $960, that's with 20 % discount at the dealership. parts guys were great

Add anothe $100 for the eng mount, another $100 for 2 oil changes w/filter, overhead cam timing tool $50, crank pulley puller $30, new serpentine belt and new tensioner $120
 






Thing is, honestly its a crap ton of work, and you gotta know or know someone you can trust to sync and install the secondary chains, phasers and cvt's perfectly.
Everything else is just reassembling, carefully with new gaskets, plugs, thermostat, everything as long as your there.

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Yes, they are filled with glycol with a tracer dye. I thought I had pinched a trans cooler line, fluid looked just like trans fluid.

When I removed it there was fluid leaking out. I got a new mount, but you re use the bracket that attaches the mount to the 3 engine bolts.

So, had to pull the mount to gain access to remove the engine cover etc.
OK, I googled them. I didn't know they made a mount like that. Is there only one or do they use two on yours, trans has one too?
I wonder what year they started using them on Explorers?
I am used to old school motor mounts. :oops:
 






2, 1 on each end of engine by wheel wells
 






Update on 2018 explorer that ate a waterpump at 99,700.

Quick catch up...I now have 100852 total miles, 882 miles since replacing water pump, phasers, primary and secondary chains, tensioners, guides, thermostat, engine mount.

Did a 852 mile road trip, heres what i found.
1. Mpg is up from just under 18 at 73mph on cruise to 20.9
2. Engine runs smooth and idles at 650.
3. Acceleration is great.
THE bad news..
1.It blows white smoke after sitting for more than a couple hours on start up only.
After driving 352 highway miles at 73 on cruize, I filled up and checked oil. It was down 2 full quarts!!
2. No coolant level deviation, I marked the res at cold and hot levels.
3. I used a Co2 reactive test kit to check for blown head gasket, result was negative.
4. Oil has been changed twice in since repair.
5. No coolant contamination in oil.
6. I checked oil levels multiple times a day at different mileage intervals and noticed...
At 31 miles no appreciable oil level drop.
After another 62 miles, about 2/3 quart low.
At 150 miles about a quart and a cup low. At 182 miles a a quart and a cup low.

It runs so good Im at a loss to know wtf is the oil consumption issue.
Im pulling vavle covers and the VCT's today and checking for screen restriction. Ill also check PCV and possibly compression test each cyl, but i dont believe thats an issue.

ANYONE been here and can offer advice, i would be greatful

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FYI...no leaks anywhere including oil pan, drain plug, oil cooler or filter. The entire front engine cover mating surface is dry.

cant attach a video, even 10 seconds is to large
 












Valve seals?

Excess pcv vacuum?
Thanks for the reply, maybe?? But it never smoked or was down even a cup of oil before I did the repair
 












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