replacing links and busings for rear sway bar on my 1996 V6 4wd Explorer | Ford Explorer Forums

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replacing links and busings for rear sway bar on my 1996 V6 4wd Explorer




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Frame bushings are easy. Four bolts to R&R. End links are more involved, bushings
are pressed in and must be removed. I found using a propane torch outdoors easiest. GL

Moog K80085 part number is the same for your '96 4WD.
http://www.mysporttrac.com/MySportTrac/projects/Endlink_Bushings_Replacement _Gen1.pdf
Energy Suspension complete kit including frame bushings.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.5153

Complete end link replacement. Moog K80139 is the correct part.
http://www.mysporttrac.com/MySportT...nks/RearSwayBarEndlinksReplacementProject.htm
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K80139
 






Just did this...

If you're completely replacing end-links, the back right link to body bolt can be a bit of a pain to get to (at least it is on a '98 sport) unless you un-clip the exhaust pipe and/or drop the spare first.

If you're replacing end-link bushings... the Moog problem solver bushings linked above are excellent. I tried to press in rubber bushings in the past and it's not worth it.

Everything else is quite simple. Outside of pressing out bushings, you should only need a socket wrench, socket extension bar, maybe some PB blaster and pair of gloves.
 






If you're going to use the Polyurethane bushings, make sure you completely lubricate them with the included grease. Poly bushing grease is different than standard chassis greases, and are the only type that will keep poly bushings from squeaking.
 






Is it difficult? Anyone had to do this? Any suggestions?

Did this about a month ago. Used ES 4.5153G kit. Fairly easy job, some of the link bolts can be a b!tch. Use lots of PB.
I drilled out the old link bushings and as said above, use lots of the supplied grease on the new.
 






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