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Replacing Multifunction Switch




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No air bag removal on mine when I replaced switch. Sure you aren't referring to the replacement of lights for the cruise control switches? I know you have to for that.

Hmmm, something to ponder....would removing or not removing the air bag to replace the MFS be based on the year model? That would certainly weigh into my decision as to whether I want to mess with it myself or not.

Thanks.

Nancy
 






No air bag removal on mine when I replaced switch. Sure you aren't referring to the replacement of lights for the cruise control switches? I know you have to for that.

Bingo! LOL
Ive done both recently and mixed them up.
no airbag removal for the MFS
 












but still working in the column with the air bag right there... disconnect the battery
 






but still working in the column with the air bag right there... disconnect the battery

I'm glad you said that because since the decision above was that I don't have to remove the air bag, I may have thought that pulling the ground wasn't necessary. Well, it will be a week or two until I can even afford the MFS, so we'll see what happens.

Thanks all.
 






Yay! I have brake lights again. I finally got my MFS replaced and lo and behold, my high-mount brake light came back to life also so it was a victim of the former MFS as well. I want to thank you all for your instructions. I'm also glad that someone mentioned that the tilt lever was threaded and metal so I could apply some force to it as it was a booger to unscrew and I couldn't get the shroud out of the way without removing the tilt lever.

One note for anyone else new to replacing the MFS - When I had everything done and I was putting the shroud back together, I just felt for the hole for the third and last screw in front of the ignition and started to insert it. Unfortunately, what I felt was a hole just behind the screw hole that I needed, so when I pushed the screw into the (wrong) hole, it fell into the shroud and down into the panel below the steering column. So I had to pull the shroud off again. I couldn't find the screw with a retrieval magnet from top or bottom of the panel. I didn't want to leave it in there in case it had landed somewhere that might cause something to short out so I ended up having to pull the panel below the steering column off in order to find it. Needless to say, I was definitely more careful about where the last screw belonged after all that.

Oh well, all is good once again. This lengthy message is just a warning to others not to make the same stupid move I made. Thanks again everyone.
 






Replaced my MFS today. After reading the posts, the job was done in 15 minutes. Thanks to all.
 






MFS Out Again???

Hey guys,

I just replaced the MFS in mid-April. Almost immediately, I started having phantom windshield wipers again when I use the left turn signal.

Now someone has told me I don't have brake lights again. Have any of you had problems with the MFS going out again that soon?

I bought it new ($42) from Parts Plus which is the main competitor to NAPA/Genuine Parts here in Albuquerque, so they supply lots of garages/mechanics with good quality parts.

I haven't checked anything yet this time, but the other time, my fuses #3 and #7 weren't getting any power except when the turn signals were in use (please see my post back in March). Also, before I replaced the MFS, my nephew was putting new brakes on for me and he saw when I drove up to his house, I had brake lights, but later the same day, they were off and then on again, so it was apparently intermittent and since it's a little difficult for me by myself to see when/if they are working, who knows how well they have worked since I did the MFS replacement....

Would you suggest that I try replacing it again?

Thanks for all your help.

Nancy
 






I had the same problem when I purchased a replacement MFS on eBay. What was sent to me was a switch for a 1998 Explorer and being newer than my 1995 I thought that I was getting a good deal. But wiring is minutely different after 1996 and the switch would refuse to function properly. Left turn would activate wipers, right turn would operwate the washer, no brake lights, etc.

I suggest that you check to see if the unit you have is for your model years.



Hey guys,

I just replaced the MFS in mid-April. Almost immediately, I started having phantom windshield wipers again when I use the left turn signal.

Now someone has told me I don't have brake lights again. Have any of you had problems with the MFS going out again that soon?

I bought it new ($42) from Parts Plus which is the main competitor to NAPA/Genuine Parts here in Albuquerque, so they supply lots of garages/mechanics with good quality parts.

I haven't checked anything yet this time, but the other time, my fuses #3 and #7 weren't getting any power except when the turn signals were in use (please see my post back in March). Also, before I replaced the MFS, my nephew was putting new brakes on for me and he saw when I drove up to his house, I had brake lights, but later the same day, they were off and then on again, so it was apparently intermittent and since it's a little difficult for me by myself to see when/if they are working, who knows how well they have worked since I did the MFS replacement....

Would you suggest that I try replacing it again?

Thanks for all your help.

Nancy
 






Fish Man - The tilt lever unscrews out of the socket. I had to use vise grips to break it loose. I had same problem 18 mos ago; replaced with a $16 switch from Pull-A-Part yard; working fine ever sense. Just luck of the draw with used parts.
 






Hi Guys...

I was having problems with my turn signals, but my hazards were working fine. It would work if I feathered the switch in a certain direction, but not all the time. I checked all the fuses and it was fine, so I figured it was the MFS.

Bought a replacement MFS on eBay for like $30 and replaced it with little problems. Plugged the battery back in, checked the hazards and wipers and it was ok. Now the signals don't work at all.

So now the hazards work fine, high beams are fine, wipers work even better now, but now I don't have any signals at all.

Any suggestions?
 






Hi guys!

I had those problem with both my 1996 and 1999 ford explorer limited.

- smoke sometime from hazard switch (on warranty, 7 changes on my 96 explorer before ford repair wirings on) 2 months ago did the same on my 99
- doors unlock, do not lock, only rear locking switch working (on 99)
- stop flashing, lights there buy no flashing (on 99)
- sometime when pushing brakes right position lamp lights itself (on 99)
- Noise on the rear speakers (on 99)

YOU HAVE TO TAKE THIS PROBLEM SERIOUSLY and act rapidly.

The problem was the wirings under the stering and the dash, driver side. Very under.... difficult to see and to go there, had to remove the seat (easy).

Take a picture (or more) of the electrical cables there, you will find. Warning - 12volts DC still give a good shock! (i experience first time...) Unplug battery during repair!!! ;p Take a good lamp! USE better than tape to fix, change part of cable if

Me it was the right flasher cable that was touching the brake lamp, so this is why the flashing component of the switch burn...

BEFORE CHANGING multiswitch, take a look there!!!
The problem is now well know, poor quality wiring (drying)

After, check fuse 27.

I think they should recall - very dangerous for fire
 






Hi Guys...

I was having problems with my turn signals, but my hazards were working fine. It would work if I feathered the switch in a certain direction, but not all the time. I checked all the fuses and it was fine, so I figured it was the MFS.

Bought a replacement MFS on eBay for like $30 and replaced it with little problems. Plugged the battery back in, checked the hazards and wipers and it was ok. Now the signals don't work at all.

So now the hazards work fine, high beams are fine, wipers work even better now, but now I don't have any signals at all.

Any suggestions?



For mine the clip on the electrical connector for the multifunction switch broke. Every time I would tilt the steering wheel the blinkers and hazards would not work. Instead of paying for a new connector and moving transferring all of the wires I took a piece of very sturdy cardboard (plywood can be substituted.) and wedged it between a piece of metal about an inch away towards the front of the car, and put some duct tape around it to prevent any sliding. I have had it like this for over a year now and I have not had any problems with it.

After all of the bumps, potholes and tilting the steering wheel in all angles it is still holding up strong.
 






Hi guys!

I had those problem with both my 1996 and 1999 ford explorer limited.

- smoke sometime from hazard switch (on warranty, 7 changes on my 96 explorer before ford repair wirings on) 2 months ago did the same on my 99
- doors unlock, do not lock, only rear locking switch working (on 99)
- stop flashing, lights there buy no flashing (on 99)
- sometime when pushing brakes right position lamp lights itself (on 99)
- Noise on the rear speakers (on 99)

YOU HAVE TO TAKE THIS PROBLEM SERIOUSLY and act rapidly.

The problem was the wirings under the stering and the dash, driver side. Very under.... difficult to see and to go there, had to remove the seat (easy).

Take a picture (or more) of the electrical cables there, you will find. Warning - 12volts DC still give a good shock! (i experience first time...) Unplug battery during repair!!! ;p Take a good lamp! USE better than tape to fix, change part of cable if

Me it was the right flasher cable that was touching the brake lamp, so this is why the flashing component of the switch burn...

BEFORE CHANGING multiswitch, take a look there!!!
The problem is now well know, poor quality wiring (drying)

After, check fuse 27.

I think they should recall - very dangerous for fire

Erby: Pics?these wires were under the carpets?
 






I do appreciate all comments posted here. I was able to repair the switch on my 98 Explorer without costing a penny. I openned the switch and cleaned it and placed it back. It works perfect now.

One thing I do find is that there are three wires connected to a connector inside the switch. Before the fix, No liquid comes out of the nozzle for winshield. I thought that it was a connection issue inside the switch. What I found is that the wire is disconnected. I had to soilder it back to the connector.

I was wondering why the wire could be broken inside the switch.
 






I do appreciate all comments posted here. I was able to repair the switch on my 98 Explorer without costing a penny. I openned the switch and cleaned it and placed it back. It works perfect now.

One thing I do find is that there are three wires connected to a connector inside the switch. Before the fix, No liquid comes out of the nozzle for winshield. I thought that it was a connection issue inside the switch. What I found is that the wire is disconnected. I had to soilder it back to the connector.

I was wondering why the wire could be broken inside the switch.

I'll have to check that. I had replaced my switch long ago for the buzzing issue, but lately my washer does not work.
 






Second generation Explorers come with a separate flasher for turn signals and 3mergency flashers.

Just found out the hard way that this is not true. My signals started working again since my last post, so I ignored the problem until they completely crapped out about a week ago. So then I installed a junkyard MFS, which didn't solve the problem, and then installed a new MFS, which still didn't solve the problem.

There's only one flasher. One goddamned flasher. A $15 part at the auto store. Thank God I was able to return the new switch, so I'm only out the $10 for the used switch off ebay and about an hour of frustration.
 



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Good info on my problem here.

I've got the buzzing with right turn signal, no front washer when depressed, and the wipers do not turn on when the wash button is depressed.
Sure seems to point at the multi function switch.

I thought about pulling it to clean and repair if possible, but the turn function doesn't want to stay in the detent position. It wants to return to the off position too easily unless steering wheel is turned quite a bit

Reading the thread, the MFS was $35 in 2006, now $46.79 at Rock Auto plus $3.36 shipping. Not terrible considering no one here has one (but they will order it for me).

Update
Out of pure curiousity I pulled the MFS and cleaned it, but couldn't get the stalk apart for the wash button. Green corrosion on the contacts.
Resistance at the 3 wire connector inside was intermittent at best. Put it back in and it works too well. Sprayed wiper fluid all over, turned on and wouldn't turn off most of the time. Pumped out a tank of wiper fluid before I could pull F12. Boogered button contacts
Oh well, the new one is on the way.
 






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