Replacing the brakes

[xvprflyboivx]

I'm looking to replace all of the rotors and brake pads myself this time as it costs way to much at the dealer to do it. I had the rotors and pads replaced at 35,000 miles now I'm at 98,000 miles. Plus they didn't do a very good job last time : the brake pedal feel was very good and over time it diminished and then got squishy instead of feeling solid. My brakes are pretty much done now. Can someone refer me to brake rotors and pads that are of good quality and reasonably priced? Also, is doing this a simple as just taking the wheel off then taking the caliper off and the rotor, changing the pads and putting the rotor back on, then the caliper and then putting the wheel on? :scratch: Or is it going to involve bleeding the brake lines? Can someone please give me some insight as to what to do? Thank you for all your help and insight in advance!

 

[Black92LX]

Get some Brembo Blank rotors best price I have found is:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...rer+XLT&autoYear=2003&autoModClar=&perfCode=P

And PBR Pads
http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.c...ord,model:Explorer,year:2003),AND(universal:1))

For both of those I typed in 2003 Explorer XLT. So you may want to refine the searches on them.

I have found them to be the best at an economical price. You should be right around $300 total in parts when you are done.

You will most likely have to bleed the brakes enough to compress the pistons in far enough to install the new pads.

Pick up a Haynes or Chiltons Repair manual and it has a nice step by step walk through.
Or there may be a nice write up on here somewhere.

 

[tower]

For inexpensive and good go with brembo rotors, I had power slots and really liked them just changed them out and put on EBC rotors so far I like them (~300miles)

The front rotors are very easy just like you said but the rears can be a pain in the %$# as the parking brake will hold the rotor on. You might want to either not change the rear rotors or have a BFH handy along with a new set of parking brake shoes.

You don't have to bleed the brakes but I always do as its easy and cheap.

 

[techieman33]

You should open up the bleeder when recompressing the cylinder so that you don't push bad fluid into the abs module. Also you should probably totally flush your old brake fluid out, just having new fluid can make a big difference in braking performance.

 

[tower]

I have never had a problem with pushing "bad" fluid though the ABS module on any car I have ever done. I do recommend bleeding new fluid as it does help as I said cheap and easy.

 

[crash594]

I have always had good luck with Friction Masters from Advance Auto Parts. I have used these on my 95 EX, 92 stang and 88 ranger and i am planning on doung my 05 EX next.
I do recomend flushing the system after you replace them. Brake fluid absorbes water over time and can cause it to feel soft. This is due to the water vaporizing under pressure and creating bubbles in the lines.
Rotors are not an issue with me except for price. I buy cheep and have not had any issues. Slotted will wear the pads quicker because each slot shaves the glaze off during racing conditions. Drilled rotors run cooler but both drilled and slotted = $$$$. I do alot of towing with no issues.

 

[tower]

I have run slotted rotors for years on all my cars but one (its got drilled) they do not wear pads any quicker in-fact pads generally last longer. The edges of the slots are chamfered they don't shave anything off. They are for gas and cooling.

 

[crash594]

I have run slotted rotors for years on all my cars but one (its got drilled) they do not wear pads any quicker in-fact pads generally last longer. The edges of the slots are chamfered they don't shave anything off. They are for gas and cooling.

Sorry should have noted for high performance (race) rotors. The chanfered rotors prevent the wear issue. I see many installs of pure race rotors. When raceing the extream use of the breaks cause the pads to glaze. The sloted rotors without the chanfered edges removed the glaze as well as releases the gas produced. The chanfer also is used for releif of stress due to heat. Race rotors are not made for years of use and can crack.

 

[Black92LX]

I have always had good luck with Friction Masters from Advance Auto Parts. I have used these on my 95 EX, 92 stang and 88 ranger and i am planning on doung my 05 EX next.
.

I ran them on my Audi and liked them for most normal driving but being that they are friction brakes they work better after heated up and they were a noticeably less grippy and I did not like them.

 

[tower]

I generally go though a set of pads on a race weekend (SCAA T1) as will as a set of tires rotors normaly last a season (though not always ). I run Stoptech Brakes (drilled) I used to run Roe
http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=18&idproduct=168#details
that are race slotted and again would get more life out of them then stock, especially on a race weekend.

I have never heard of slotted rotors "shaving" anything if they did (even if it where only .0001) they would not last 1 lap at the rock,glen,socal or any other track.

The reason I never recommend drilled is because for street use you can get thermal cracking this is not normally a problem with slotted rotors.