Replacing Transmission Cooling Lines

[CanyonExplorer]

I have a 1997 2WD Ford Explorer with a 4L OHV and a 5R55e transmission with 200K+ miles.

One of the metal transmission cooling lines going to the radiator is cracked and leaking. It happened tonight as I replacing the radiator which wasn't all that much of a surprise as they were pretty rusted. I searched the forum listings but didn't find a thread with what I was looking for. Current plan is to replace both of these lines as they are quite rusted.

Anyone know the diameter of the metal tubing used in these lines? I am experienced in bending and flaring brake lines and I am wondering if my flaring tool will handle the diameter used in these lines. Personally I would like to stay with the metal lines if it isn't too much of a pain. I'm considering cutting the lines close to where they go into the tranny, sliding on a fitting, flaring it at the cut, putting in a union and then running new metal lines from there up to the radiator.

I believe I read that others have replaced these lines with rubber tubing. I'm considering this as I wouldn't have to flare the lines and bend tubing. What is the recommended type of rubber tubing if I go this route. Currently the hard steel lines kind of float in space as they make their way to the radiator. Any suggestions on how to go about routing and mounting the lines if I go this way?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[drdoom]

You can pick up 11/32" reinforced rubber transmission line at the parts house.

 

[CanyonExplorer]

I'm off to the parts store to see what they have. Will let you know what I end up doing.

 

[X6StringerX]

I replaced the lines on my '01 5.0 last year. I don't know how complicated the bend pattern is for your particular setup, but I took one look at mine and bought the prebent send and return lines from my local dealership for about $75.

 

[CanyonExplorer]

That is a good thought. I'll give the local dealership a call and see if they have them. Thanks.

 

[drdoom]

I replaced the lines on my '01 5.0 last year. I don't know how complicated the bend pattern is for your particular setup, but I took one look at mine and bought the prebent send and return lines from my local dealership for about $75.

Good plan.

 

[CanyonExplorer]

I like the dealer option but as one might expect, none of the dealerships are answering the phones given that it is Christmas Eve. The best local dealer did have a message indicating they are closed and will reopen Tuesday.

 

[2000StreetRod]

flaring

. . . I believe I read that others have replaced these lines with rubber tubing. I'm considering this as I wouldn't have to flare the lines and bend tubing. What is the recommended type of rubber tubing if I go this route. Currently the hard steel lines kind of float in space as they make their way to the radiator. Any suggestions on how to go about routing and mounting the lines if I go this way?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

If you decide to use flexible hose for any section of the external ATF coolant lines I suggest that you flare the metal to flexible hose connections. I have had small leakage even though my connections are flared. After a while the hose compresses from the clamp allowing ATF to pass by. The flare prevents the hose from slipping off the tube.

 

[wood1]

Back when I had to replace my cooler lines I used the ends of the steel factory ones, flared them and attached copper tubing with rubber transmission line. That was several years ago. I double clamp too, cheap insurance.

 

[CanyonExplorer]

Update: I ended up replacing the lines with 3/8 steel lines.

The old lines were pretty good down to the bottom of the radiator so I cut, added a fitting and flared them at the ends. I bent 3/8 steel lines to match the previous bends which took a bit of time as 3/8 steel is a pain to bend if you have never done it. Even harder when you have to bend 2 side by side. I ended up using 2 - 51 in. steel lines which turned out to be just long enough. I joined the newly bent lines at the radiator using unions. At the transmission end I left the old lines and cut them leaving a little length. It would have been difficult to get them off and even harder to flare them in place. I ran the new 3/8 steel lines up to the old lines and cut off the ends. I used short pieces (2 in.) of 5/16 rubber transmission line to join them and put hose clamps on each end. I used 5/16 rubber instead of 3/8 to make it a tighter fit. It was a little bit of a challenge getting the 5/16 rubber tubing on but it sealed very well.

A bit of a warning for anyone going to flare the factory lines. They have a seam on the inside. I had to hand file the inside of the lines to get them smooth enough to seal after I flared them. It took a little bit but I was able to get them to seal after some careful filing.

Drove it last night for a bit and so far so good.

Below is a link to pics I took after I finished.

https://picasaweb.google.com/115976...ransmissionLines?authkey=Gv1sRgCMbxz9eKs5nJMg

 

[wood1]

Sounds good, steel rather than copper. I tried your link but it no workie...

 

[CanyonExplorer]

I updated the URL in the post. Give that a try and let me know if that works.

 

[wood1]

Yup, looks good. Nice job.

 

[Turdle]

Just to build on this--you can now easily add an in line trans filter.