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Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

I would go with the Atlas for sure rookie. I liked my doubler, but it will be VERY tight in your truck w/ the wheel base. And honestly, after all the shifter, speedo, gas tank, cross member, driveshaft obstacles I dealt with, I wished I would have shelled out the extra $500 to $1000 and gone with an atlas. Yes, I probably had $1000 in mine if not more when it was all said and done. Atleast most of those obstacles would be a non issue with an atlas. Then you get front wheel and 2 low and junk. I see atlas tcases pop up used for $1700 or so here every once in a while. I hear that they can be easily adapted to different input/ outputs too? I even heard aa would adapt them for you if you send them back??
 



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Also rookie- I wouldn't rush into Dana 60s. An 8.8 with 31 splines and chromos should be seriously tough. I have a buddy running one on a buggied out TJ with 40s with no issues. Mine never hick upped with stock shafts and the 37s and all the abuse I threw at her (Save the gernaded LS carrier!) The 44 fronts with Chromos and Super Joints or even the RCVs are tough too. I wouldn't worry to trust those axles with your motor/ tranny and an atlas.
 






Thanks for all your input Kirby.
Leaving the stock 8.8 with chromos sounds like the plan I'll follow along with the 44 mods you mentioned:thumbsup:
What's your thoughts on using 1350 Yokes on the rear DS? I can order the T- case with that size yokes and then get same size for the 8.8?
That's good news about Atlas servicing them like that. I know the couple of times I've talked to them I was extremely pleased with the way they spent time talking to me about all the different options that could be had with their cases.
Hoping to send up some $$ their way and have them start building me one in the next week or so.
Might just call up Moser Engineering today about some Chromo rear axles for the 8.8 with 5x5.5 pattern.
 






Heck I'm still on the stock shafts on my 8.8. It has been welded for 5 years now and no problem with the shafts or the pig.

Ive been through a couple 44 shafts. Stock and chromo have been busted. Stubs, ears, even the splines in at the spool. That was fun to get the splines out of the diff, had to tear down both sides and push it out from the other side. I have super joints and have never had a problem with them. Did loose a cap once when the ear broke. Just ordered a rebuild kit and all was good.
 






Yea. I bought a 1989 ford f250 diesel and then I parked it and bought a 1973 dodge dart swinger. The truck was just had to many problems. I had it for probably 3 months before i actually drove the stupid thing. So its in the backyard now.
Did you get any luck with deer season this year? I ended up getting a small doe and my first buck. It was a 8 point.
 






What's your thoughts on using 1350 Yokes on the rear DS? I can order the T- case with that size yokes and then get same size for the 8.8?

That sounds like a really good call. I had 3 or so broken joints in my rear driveshaft. I did away with my 2nd gen wierd c/v shaft after the second broken driveshaft. Then I broke another ujoint on the axle end after that. I am pretty sure all you would need for the rear is the flanges off a f150. You could probably do it on the front too with a different yoke.
 






Thanks as usual FireZapper and Kirby for your knowledge on this.
1996X glad you got an 8 pt. congratulations.

Well an update on the Aussie locker is that I just received an email and the production runs of lockers for the D44s have been put back another month. um um um.
Hope to have it shipped by late Jan.

Might just talk to them about one for the rear 8.8 also.

Waiting on some replays regarding the Atlas. Hope to hear something by late today or tomorrow.

Here's a little vid of my Hella low beams, LightForce high beams and one cab mounted Lightforce.
Will have two eventually.
At first just the low and then you'll hear a click from relay and the two high beam LightForce lights and then another click and the one cab LightForce light comes on. Really need the driver side cab light as the you can see. Crank the volume up.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v...ights/?action=view&current=20101230185408.mp4
 






DSC07939.jpg


Doing the Big Sweep.
Been talking to Advance Adapters and their sending me an email to order their Atlas ii case. So I need to get this garage ready for the install, and other mods that will becoming soon.
Sure I could have bought this and that with what the Atlas costs, but I can always piece meal the other parts. Like two tires here, one locker here another tire here and so on. Then it would have taken forever to come up with the $$ for the AA case again had I bought those other part first.
Hope to get the order form tonight or no later then tomorrow, cause this cash is burning a hole in my pocket ha ha.
From their webb site I don't see any conflicts with frame or body. Other then the twin sticks might be a little too short. Nothing a cut off wheel on the sticks can't solve. Like cut and splice haha.

This is going to be a busy New Year.
 












:thumbsup:
So, your gonna jump right in? Not gonna use a mock-up one first?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=829897

~Mark

Who me! Gonna jump right in...Never ha ha.
Just spoke with Dallas at Stinky Fab, cool guy.
I have Atlas's PDF print out on the case and more or less have it figured out.
But this sounds really cool. Better then trying to lift that beast up, in and out and then down. Only to do it all again. Hmmm
I told Dallas give me a few days and I'll probably order one.
Hey you never know, someone on this site may just need one also and could borrow this one if I do get it.

Then again I did make a plywood HP D44 model with links. Go ahead and laugh, but it did work haha. Dallas got a chuckle out of it.


Thanks for the heads up, I know my back feels better already ;)
 












i love the smell of a freshly swept garage, smells like... victory

I don't know about the "smells like...victory", but the only smell I want to smell is when I'm pouring in the Mobil 1 Synthetic 15w-50 that I'll use for the first 500 miles :D
 












i think you should d a picture update bc your truck is awesome
 






Well I just bit the bullet and ordered my Atlas transfer case from Advanced Adapters. It will take a few weeks to have built.
The guys over there are so helpful to explain all the combinations available.
I'll do a complete documentation from installation to devastation of my truck. I mean finish project with trail pics. Be a good time to use my new vid camera also ;)

I'm glad now that I did built the new heavier tranny mount which is 2"x2" square tubing awhile back.
There will be more structural supports for the Atlas and also will fab up additional supports to control the rotational twist of the case due to all the torque multiplications going on in the case.

Hey, thanks exsports1211. One day may do a registry once it gets more trail ready.

Just added: Got off the phone with Jess at HAD (High Angle Driveline) and might have some more mods to do later if need be.
 






i had 89 eddie baur when i was in high school..bout to buy another for a project when i get back from a deployment lookin a for a 4.0 b2 but doubt ill get that lucky
 






i had 89 eddie baur when i was in high school..bout to buy another for a project when i get back from a deployment lookin a for a 4.0 b2 but doubt ill get that lucky

Hey, sounds great. Good Luck in your search for a project B2.
Hope things go well with your deployment :thumbsup:
 






thanks!im gonna steal your light guard designs thats great protection
 






DSC07994.jpg


Seems the "Ole Reliable" C4 is not shifting like she used to. Found 2 culprits.
One is the modulating valve that was not modulating properly.
The other was the shifting cable that got burnt on the exhaust. But more on that later.
When I got underneath the truck to adjust the modulator for later shifts, I noticed ATF coming out the rear. This is not a good thing.
There was no need to really dissect the valve in half, but I love to see carnage in any form ha ha. And besides I saved the spring and threw it into the collection of other totally worthless things.
The oil is only supposed be on the tranny side of the rubber bladder. But after examining the corpse, I found a small tear along the outer edge rendering it useless. The oil soaked spring should be dry :(
Now I know the reason for a little smoke coming out the ex.

DSC08000.jpg


DSC08001.jpg


There is a small push rod that goes into tranny from the valve. Be careful not to loose. knowing that the word careful is not in my vocabulary, I documented what size it is so when in fact I do lose it, I can make one.
Here it's obvious that it's 1/8" dia. x 1 and 5/8" long. So now all I have to do is cut off an 1/8" drill bit to proper length. Some of these rods are different size I understand so don't take my dimensions for yours.

DSC08002.jpg


Here's the new valve with the modified made in Taiwan 3/4" wrench that was grinded down on both sides. It's a tight fit between valve and tranny.

Next to do a little test drive.
 



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Price Quantity Total
BRK-1058-2 Axle tube shock tabs (flat bottom)
Plate thickness: 1/4'' $0.99 10 $9.90
BRK-1002-6 Offset Panhard / Tracbar mount
Axle Tube Diameter: 3.0''
Separation (from center tube): 6 inches $19.50 1 $19.50

Subtotal: $29.40
Discount(s): $0.00
Taxes: $0.00
Shipping: $13.75
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before I forget Ballistic Fabrication has a good sale going on.
I just bought some dirt cheap tabs and one off-set panhard bracket. Who knows may push rear axle back some more ha ha. And those tabs might come in handy in the Atlas transfer install?

DSC07936.jpg


Hope I do not have to chang the new heavier tranny mount due to the up-coming Atlas install.

DSC07989.jpg


Now on to the other part of getting the shifter to shift right. The top pic shows the damage when the shifting cable came in contact with the exhaust.

The pic below that is the new B&M shift cable. Even though the shifter is a Hurst, I'm going with the B&M cable. IMO, a little better.

DSC08007.jpg


It's not a direct bolt in cause the eye hole in the B&M is a little too large for the Hurst pin to go in making a sloppy fit at the shifter end.
So I made up a bushing and welded to the end of the cable to fix that problem.

DSC08003.jpg


Next was to route with the least bends and use 11/16" wrench to fasten to bracket.

Next, go out and drive this thing and see how she does :rolleyes:


Oh ya, Kirby and Zapper. I'm going to go with Moser Engineering 8.8 axles. They're supposedly about 30% stronger then stock and they will make them 5 on 5.5 also.
I have run their axles in some of my race cars years gone by and never had a problem.
Coupled with the relatively light weight of the truck, I think they will do just fine. But time will tell.
 






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