Part number update and pricing
Only trying to update an already great thread.
Finally did this. Ordered all the parts prior....in reality, all you need are the gutter moldings from the windshield and some hardware.
The retainers have new part numbers
FB5Z-7850002-A (right)
FB5Z-7850002-B (left)
Though I do not see a need in ordering them. Apparently 2016 and up models all have the short ones, plus, you could just cut your existing long ones. (and still reverse the process)
The left one is/was on back order as of a month ago. A retired parts manager on another forum did a dealer search for me and found 5 in the country. (I thought I kept that email, will look in my notes to see if I still have the dealerships that still had them) In any case, I wouldn't order them again. (Having new foam around the hole on the under side is a plus though)
Parts diagram showed you needing 4 bolts..W713232-S439...I only used 2 (one for each retainer) there again, stock ones could be reused. (But new ones have a sealant on the threads)
I initially used the rubber washers listed earlier, wasn't happy with them, and did not want to use silicone (They were broken and messed up after only two days). I ended up ordering
http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
and
http://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fas...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
(did not use yet, unless I get water penetration)
And I wasn't happy with the phillips screws I got locally, so I ordered
http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
The metal washer is not much lager then the button head, looks pretty good, and I have had no water penetration.
As no one has mentioned it, I guess I will, if you want to be able to reverse this when your using stainless, use anti-seize.
So this can be done for less than $100. (Mouldings are $43/$44)
As my Explorer is tri-coat white, I do not want to run black moulding down the gutter.
I will be painting all the lower plastic and will paint the roof mouldings too.
Maybe this winter if I'm not so busy, I want to make an actual filler strip front to rear in sheet metal (box tube that will fill the gutter flush) and paint body color. One piece that can bolt down.
As a side note, when removing the rails, do not try to separate the moulding from the pedestal. Take it off as a unit, remove the rubber gasket, the you turn the moulding 90 degrees to remove it. Trying to pry them apart on the vehicle, will result in a broken clip.
Hope this helps. Obviously not the only way to do it. Just one possible way. Also the cheapest way to do it. (Unless you can find a wrecked police version and get used parts lol)