Rubbing Brakes?

[Fred93]

Hi All,

Can't seem to find posts that quite fit this situation, so will trouble you with a new question if you don't mind.
'93 Explorer XLT 4WD, recently put on wheels with winter tires. After driving even just 4-5 miles on relatively flat roads we pull into the garage and it sometimes smells like burnt brakes, like when people ride their brakes on a descent.

Didn't notice any significant driving issues like pulling to one side or slower acceleration. But the brake smell has us wondering if there's a brake pad rubbing somewhere.

Any thoughts on what might be happening and how to address it?

Thanks much,
Fred93

 

[BKennedy]

Did this start happening after the winter tires were installed?

Maybe the tires are rubbing the inner fender?
Different tires would cause brakes to stick. The only way to check the brakes is to check the brakes. Remove each wheel and inspect the brake components for unusual or uneven wear.

 

[92exp4x4]

After driving the vehicle, feel each wheel and see which one might be hotter than the other. Could be something as simple as a coincidental caliper sticking.

 

[Fred93]

After driving the vehicle, feel each wheel and see which one might be hotter than the other. Could be something as simple as a coincidental caliper sticking.

Thanks for the tips! I did try the sniff test at each wheel after driving, but results were inconclusive. Checking the temperature is a better idea.
Maybe it's just a matter of a remove, jiggle, and reinstall to get the pieces realigned. I expect it's something on a rear drum brake. Probably not rubbing the fender since these wheels/tires have been on before without any rubbing.

The search continues! Thanks.

 

[92exp4x4]

Thanks for the tips! I did try the sniff test at each wheel after driving, but results were inconclusive. Checking the temperature is a better idea.
Maybe it's just a matter of a remove, jiggle, and reinstall to get the pieces realigned. I expect it's something on a rear drum brake. Probably not rubbing the fender since these wheels/tires have been on before without any rubbing.

The search continues! Thanks.

I've had park brake cables begin to stick and hold a rear brake partially. You might work the brake a few times and see if that's stuck.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes! Sounds like rear parking brakes or rear drums are dragging
First check brake fluid level under hood
Next look at backside of rear brake dust shields, any moisture around the brake lines where they enter the drum? Looking for any brake line leaks common when rear drum cylinders fail

Do a rolling test with truck on slight hill does truck roll easily?

You can try to mash the parking brake down and release a few times. Also you can go in reverse get up a little speed and mash the parking brake down and release
The rear drums on these trucks are “self adjusting” going in reverse abs mashing the brakes can often reset or adjust the shoes

Any changes?
Next step put truck in air and spin each tire look for any rubbing or clearance issues.

It’s very likely either a brake cable (parking brake) was pulled or moved during tire change over it’s also possible just water/slush ice contamination of rear drums

When was last time the rear brakes were serviced?

 

[Roadrunner777]

If the e-brake was set to change the tires, it could most certainly be a stuck cable. They run along the driver's side outside the frame rail, and you could just give them a good tug and see if this clears up temporarily. I had this exact thing happen some years ago. Figure out where it is binding, clean it or replace the section of cable. I bet this is it.

 

[Fred93]

Thanks for all the good info. It's looking like it is a sticky parking brake issue. Did the temperature test with a non-contact thermometer and the left rear drum came out about 10 - 15 deg higher than the right after a bit of driving. Then released the parking brake and let the truck roll back on a slight slope. Sure enough, the left rear drum made a complaining groaning sound. I cycled the P-brake a few times and tried the roll test again, and no sound. Something must be sticking intermittently.

Any advice on how (or where) to clean or lubricate the cable to free it up? Any other ideas?

Thanks!

 

[Abramwithda1991fourdoor]

Thanks for all the good info. It's looking like it is a sticky parking brake issue. Did the temperature test with a non-contact thermometer and the left rear drum came out about 10 - 15 deg higher than the right after a bit of driving. Then released the parking brake and let the truck roll back on a slight slope. Sure enough, the left rear drum made a complaining groaning sound. I cycled the P-brake a few times and tried the roll test again, and no sound. Something must be sticking intermittently.

Any advice on how (or where) to clean or lubricate the cable to free it up? Any other ideas?

Thanks!

Ummm no really advice there but maybe spraying some lube and cleaning the parts in the drum might help. I don't know if you have ever tried it but I inspected my rear drum brakes well at least one side and it's was really easy to take the drum off. I recommend starting at seeing if you have any brake material left on the shoes. I think typical shoes may appear worm but they might not have much pad in the beginning. I got my rear brakes working lately. My control valve for my rabs was clogged and I got a new one from Rock Auto.

 

[92exp4x4]

Thanks for all the good info. It's looking like it is a sticky parking brake issue. Did the temperature test with a non-contact thermometer and the left rear drum came out about 10 - 15 deg higher than the right after a bit of driving. Then released the parking brake and let the truck roll back on a slight slope. Sure enough, the left rear drum made a complaining groaning sound. I cycled the P-brake a few times and tried the roll test again, and no sound. Something must be sticking intermittently.

Any advice on how (or where) to clean or lubricate the cable to free it up? Any other ideas?

Thanks!

Check the cable assembly for damage or cracking in the sheathing. If moisture gets into it, it will rust up. Some after market cables dont have the plastic coating on the inner cable, ive even got some before that have no outer covering they are garbage. For the effort it would take to remove and lube them up, you could get new ones. Also, make sure the return springs are in good shape. That can make the brake not release properly. When change out the rear brakes, i always replace the hardware with new. A spring can look fine, but be weak and not work properly.

Make sure your pedal isn't binding up as well. There was thread on here recently about some plastic bits showing up on someone's carpet. One of mine began doing the same. The bushing for the pedal release is starting to break apart. Its probably not related to the sticking, but pieces could theoretically lodge in the assembly and make it stick.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Well, I was in the middle of writing a reply when 92exp4x4 basically made all my points and posted first...

I'll say it a little differently:

Though your problem might be grime in the cables, it could just as easily be a broken cable strand catching the jacket. It could just as easily be something binding in the drum mechanism.

I'm a nut about brakes. I think I would have to tear down the rear drums just to see if something is broken and jamming up the works. And having taken the drums off, I would out of habit replace the shoes and hardware, clean everything and lube the designated spots. 92exp is right about springs weakening. You get that with heat cycling and constant tension. And then, again already being there, I might replace the rear parking brake cables because they are cheap, easy to replace and I'm there anyway. You can get Raybestos brand cables at RockAuto, the left rear is about $13, and to me, that's a no-brainer versus having to maybe go back later and replace it anyway.

I also want to bring up the possibility that it is binding in the front cable, pedal assembly, and so on. The way the cables are set up, it will lightly engage one side first and then grab both sides more solidly.

But, I would inspect and do the rear brakes first because this could be a symptom of a more serious issue.

 

[92exp4x4]

Well, I was in the middle of writing a reply when 92exp4x4 basically made all my points and posted first...

I'll say it a little differently:

Though your problem might be grime in the cables, it could just as easily be a broken cable strand catching the jacket. It could just as easily be something binding in the drum mechanism.

I'm a nut about brakes. I think I would have to tear down the rear drums just to see if something is broken and jamming up the works. And having taken the drums off, I would out of habit replace the shoes and hardware, clean everything and lube the designated spots. 92exp is right about springs weakening. You get that with heat cycling and constant tension. And then, again already being there, I might replace the rear parking brake cables because they are cheap, easy to replace and I'm there anyway. You can get Raybestos brand cables at RockAuto, the left rear is about $13, and to me, that's a no-brainer versus having to maybe go back later and replace it anyway.

I also want to bring up the possibility that it is binding in the front cable, pedal assembly, and so on. The way the cables are set up, it will lightly engage one side first and then grab both sides more solidly.

But, I would inspect and do the rear brakes first because this could be a symptom of a more serious issue.

Great minds think alike!!

One more point. I have noticed several times lately that some aftermarket cables will also have the wrong crimp end. I can't remember what brand they were, but i got them from rock auto. The crimp end was a ball instead of the barrel type. I modified it to work as the cable was fine otherwise, but just be aware of that. I began getting the AC Delco professional parts from Rock Auto. Ironic that Delco brand has been the best for my Fords, but ill take what works over brand loyalty. They are mostly made by the same parent company anyway. For those unaware, Delco is an OEM supplier to and I think a subsidiary of GM.

 

[Fred93]

Progress update... May have solved the rubbing brake issue. Only time will tell for sure.
Thinking the drum brakes may have accidentally adjusted themselves too much during the wheel change, I turned the star wheel adjustment screw back a few notches to let it reset to a more appropriate level. Had to pull off the brake drum to access it since it's near impossible through the little port on the back of the brake. Lubricated all the exposed places on the P-brake cable that slide into any tubing (for lack of a proper part name). Also added an extra spring from the hardware store to the P-brake cable return spring in front of the driver rear wheel to provide a little extra release tug when the brake is off. New spring is narrow enough to run right through the middle of the existing spring. Haven't had a chance to test much, but so far so good.
Thanks for all your advice and suggestions. Big help!