Same old story - start up rattle | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Same old story - start up rattle

Howard, you have actually come up with a point that I was going to ask - can the rear chain rattle on start-up? Don't hear much mentioned about the rear. The only thing I haven't done is replaced the rear tensioner yet. I am 99% sure it is a timing chain rattle - never does it at all when the engine has been recently run - only when left for a couple of hours or so. BIGHVM suggested in a different post the cat heat shield being loose - checked all this out and no probs there.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I have to say that I do not know. But the cost of a tensioner is not great and you have done everything else so it has to be worth a try.
 






i think after reading this thread that i may have the same noise, its more like a tiny noise,more pronounced as being described here,but i thought it was a blow on the exhaust, or a rattle on a sheild as it seems to come from right around the driver area of the cab,very odd! will have to let more qualified people have a good listen for me at the fair, and decide on action after ime told what is wrong,should be a very informative day all in all lol.
 






oh and as an after thought in answer to an earlier question,i run castrol in the ex,as its an ford and thats has been associated with castrol forever,mobile was always a renault oil i thought,bloming exspensive though,still i would imagine ime still on origanal filters and tensoiners ect,i probably need a complete over haul in most areas by now. (and the ford aswell no doubt)
 






i get a rattles at idle but driving around and doing that stress test thing at 3-4k whilst driving thing theres no rattles only at idle?
 






Mine doesn't rattle on idle or when running, only at start-up. Have you done the tensioner and restrictor (oom12 kit)?
As far as oil goes, I have heard a lot of recommendations for Mobil 1. I spoke to Opie Oils last week (although they are near to me, I have no connection with them) and their guy there, who seemed incredibly knowlegible about all brands and every aspect of oil, reckoned Mobil 1 was far superior to Castrol Magnatex. Overall, since putting in the Mobil the engine seems to run a lot smoother and quieter:thumbsup:
 






Rear chain tensioner 'bolt' now on order from Ford - will post part number when I get it. Local Ford dealership does not have parts dept., or deal in cash on the premises, so phoned their main parts department in mid-Cornwall. "Oooooh, got one of those, 'ave ee boy", when asked what vehicle I had:D They found the part on their system and I paid by credit card. "Will send it down to your local dealer when it comes in - don't know how long - will try to get it from Exeter, if not from up North, failing that from Germany, and last resort from the USA". Will just sit and wait.
 






I go with Howard, it wonthurt to change the rear one also, bet its as soft as the old front one. If it still rattles you may have a chain guide broken! Thats been known to happen as they are PLASTIC!

have it checked out mate- usually the debris can be found in the oil pan and clogs the filter causing slow oil pressure build up- maybe just ,maybe that could be it!
To confirm you would have to drain the oil and drop the pan- you could re use the new oil again as you had just changed it- if you find any chewed up plastic you have your answer and need the guides replaced asap.
 






well it seems i have rattle as well and i have had all recalls covered so that says a lot for the revised replacement parts they used its only done 71000 and had regular oil changes and service schedules,its only on startup occasionally and i cant seem to hear it at any other time.i had it spotted by duncan who fixed my exhaust problem it could be heard quite plainly with oil cap off,but he said its difficult to tell for sure whats gone without having a look inside .surely the revised parts havent gone already so im thinking its a rear part gone as this seems to be the only part that is hardly ever mentioned so realistically if i want piece of mind im looking at around £900 to repair properly with the offers by duncan on ebay,the painful part is that it never made any noises when i tested before buying it ,sods law again?:(
 






If it still rattles you may have a chain guide broken! Thats been known to happen as they are PLASTIC!
its only on startup occasionally and i cant seem to hear it at any other time.

I am trying the rear tensioner as a last hope - we have exactly the same symptoms with occasional, very short, start-up rattle only. My front lot was replaced about 25,000 miles back. Hopefully, H, I haven't got a broken guide as I should have one of the later ones in there - or am I just being too hopeful:( Will let you know what happens.
 






I am trying the rear tensioner as a last hope - we have exactly the same symptoms with occasional, very short, start-up rattle only. My front lot was replaced about 25,000 miles back. Hopefully, H, I haven't got a broken guide as I should have one of the later ones in there - or am I just being too hopeful:( Will let you know what happens.

I wish you the best mate- really hope its the rear rensioner and not the guides as its only around £25. and easy to do from behind the plastic splash guard- remove the splash guard, passenger side and you should see the tensioner, you will need a long deep socket to get the new one on, the old one will have a flatter top.
Please dont wreck the very thin washer that comes with it-tape around the hole with masking to hold it and removing the tape just as you are about to pinch it tight with the head of the new tensioner. It is really thin!
 






Two days have gone by after fitting my rear tensioner, and no start-up rattle:D.
Yipee :D:D:D. Trouble is, keep waiting to hear it every time I start up - hopefully, though it is now cured. Easy job to do, if you can get the old one undone:thumbdwn:. Mine had been there since 1997 and was in good and tight from the factory. Trouble is, it needs an extension on the 27mm socket of about 18". I have a half inch drive set and over the 18" it acts like a torsion bar, just springing when you twist. If you have the chance of a three quarter inch drive, I would suggest using it. Mine finally came undone using a 2 foot wheel nut bar with a half inch drive on the end of the extensions. I managed to wedge a block of wood in between the end of the extensions and the suspension - this left me then with two hands free to lie on my back and push. After several goes, there was a healthy 'crack' and it came undone. I did mine cold - be careful if the engine is hot as quite a bit of oil comes out when you take the tensioner out, and the exhaust pipe is directly below. Should be a ten minute job in all - don't even have to take off the wheel.
 






sometimes putting a thicker oil i.e non synfetic solves the problem ....... only a stab in the dark mind you im a bit concerned that the new tensioner did not sort the rattle as ive just orderd mine.......did you do the upper and lower inlet manifold gaskets?
 






Most definitely did both gaskets - very important while you have the manifolds off. Makes a hell of a difference to the running and idling (at least, did on mine). I originally put a 10/40 semi synthetic in which did not make any difference to the rattle - have now gone back to the original 5/30 spec (fully synthetic Mobil 1)
 






Rear chain tensioner 'bolt' now on order from Ford - will post part number when I get it. Local Ford dealership does not have parts dept., or deal in cash on the premises, so phoned their main parts department in mid-Cornwall. "Oooooh, got one of those, 'ave ee boy", when asked what vehicle I had:D They found the part on their system and I paid by credit card. "Will send it down to your local dealer when it comes in - don't know how long - will try to get it from Exeter, if not from up North, failing that from Germany, and last resort from the USA". Will just sit and wait.

Hi! Nice write up, I have the same problem. Btw do you have the part number of this Rear chain tensioner 'bolt'?

thanks
 






I should change mine on the EX I just got,it rattles like nails in a blender for quite awhile after start up.


As for synthetic oil.....is Mobil 1 "THE best",or will any full synthetic be good??
 






Btw do you have the part number of this Rear chain tensioner 'bolt'?

The Ford part number is 4822190 and it is called a tensioner-belt if it is of any help. It also carries the number 53X38E62 but don't know if it means anything. Cost is around 30 to 32 quid including Vat from Ford agent. The washer is extra - I re-used my old one as it was perfectly good. Hope it works for you - it certainly did for me - the Ex has never run so quiet - can even hear the lpg gas injectors ticking when driving:D. Have you done the front one with the OOM12 kit?

I should change mine on the EX I just got,it rattles like nails in a blender for quite awhile after start up.
As for synthetic oil.....is Mobil 1 "THE best",or will any full synthetic be good??

Hi icom, I see you are from the US. Was there not a recall in your country for the timing chains, or at least for the tensioners? If yours rattles for a while after startup, it is worth looking up a few of the threads on this forum regarding the front timing chain and guides, as a change of either front or rear tensioner might not necessarily cure the problem. As you are probably aware, there was a problem with the chains and plastic guides for a few years of production - hence the Ford recall.
With regard to oil, I am no expert, but was recommended to use Mobil 1. To me it is a superb oil, although tends to be expensive as all good things are. Can't vouch for any other fully synthetic oils, although if a good make should be just as good. No doubt others might have opinions. Hope you can cure your 'rattle'.
 






i orederd & paid for my new uprated front tensioner hoping it would be here in time for ford fair but i dont think its gonna be here in time ........ im gonna get that rear one as well after the fair even if the front one cures it just to be on the safe side.............
 






im gonna get that rear one as well after the fair even if the front one cures it just to be on the safe side.............

Very wise - anything that can possibly prevent problems with the rear chain is well worth it, and the rear tensioner ain't a fortune, compared with the arm and a leg job if the engine has to come out. Hope all goes well and you get the rattle sorted in the end.
Enjoy the fair (I'm jealous, but work at this time of the year does not give me a chance to get away). Have fun you guys who are going, if you're not too knackered. Hope to see some pics when you all get back.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





The Ford part number is 4822190 and it is called a tensioner-belt if it is of any help. It also carries the number 53X38E62 but don't know if it means anything. Cost is around 30 to 32 quid including Vat from Ford agent. The washer is extra - I re-used my old one as it was perfectly good. Hope it works for you - it certainly did for me - the Ex has never run so quiet - can even hear the lpg gas injectors ticking when driving:D. Have you done the front one with the OOM12 kit?

Hi again Richard!
No I haven't done the OOM12 kit, I'll think I just try replace the tensioner belt/bolt thingy front and back, and see if this repair is good enough.

Is it recommended to do this OOM12 kit on every model 4,0 SOCH engines?
 






Featured Content

Back
Top