SAS Steering Questions

[CodePoet]

I'm using a 1979 HP D44 for my 93 sas. The axle came with the tie rod and i would like to save cost by re-using it. Yes I have been searching and it has resolved many of my questions but I do still have a couple. I would like to flip the tie-rod, wondering if anyone happens to know the size reamer to use to modify the knuckles. I'm considering making it all out of DOM but not sure yet...Basically just trying to find the most economical way to make a decent setup. I know a guy who can get me the draglink/tie rod setup for a good price, this mean using 1ton cheby tre's. Lastly, pitman arms....i've read some people have used the stock one or an arm from a 78 am i correct on this? I'm HOPING to only lift the truck around 6"s.

I know i'm kinda going in many different directions at once...that's why i'm starting the thread, to help me focus in on the best setup (which would probably be the DOM setup).

 

[RockRanger]

I just picked up 8 feet of 4130 chrome moly tubing for steering. 1.5" x .25 wall tubing. Ran about $90 for the piece. Dont think I will be bending it I got weld in bungs for chevy TRE and a histeer arm from sky manufacturing. BC broncos list in there catalogs the tierod flip parts. Part #'s 47-27000 and 47-26100 Not sure which you will need though. Might beable to find it on there website.

 

[Brian1]

4130 tie rod, I would hope you wouldnt bend it!

If you use the GM 1-ton TRE's you need a 1.5" per foot reamer. Only do a little at a time because it will go fast and you cant re-do it.

The ford may be the same, I am not sure.

On my rig (not my Explorer) I use 1.25"x.219" DOM tube and tapped it directly for the GM 1 ton TRE's. I had to ream my high steer arms and pitman arm a little more for the TREs I was using. I am also using behind the axle tie rod arms which are really beefy.

 

[CodePoet]

The setup i may buy will also be tapped directly for the GM TRE's. I'm assuming the process for reaming the knuckle out would be little by little till the tre's seat fully in the knucle correct? I"m Probably going to go with this setup, it's affordable and will undobtly be better than what i can fab up haha

 

[Brian1]

I'm assuming the process for reaming the knuckle out would be little by little till the tre's seat fully in the knucle correct?

Yes, but more like reaming it untill you can get the castle nut on far enough to get the cotter pin through the hole

 

[RockRanger]

Did some searching around today for TRE's . If you use an ES437L it has the same taper as the ranger pitman arm but has a thread count of 7/8 x 18tpi on the shank(?) part. This is the same as a chevy TRE. I havent fitted it forsure yet but I will know forsure in a few days if it will work. It only took 2 hours at kragen of cross checking numbers with there book to find it.

 

[CodePoet]

Cool good info THANKS!!

 

[RockRanger]

Well I went out to test fit it with a flashlight and it doesnt seem to fit right. It seems a little loose. However I didnt try tightening the nut on so that might fix it. When I get a chance to play with it in the daylight I will know ore but right now it seems to be just a little to small. I will play with it a bit more in the next few days and see what I can come up with. If any one has a MOOG catalog or another catalog with specs in it that can look up the specs on part #s DS1161 and DS1176 I would really appeciate it. The one I was using didnt have those numbers in it and I can find a moog catalog online anywhwhere that gives specs.

 

[RockRanger]

Void the part number above. It doesn work. Back to the drawing board. Think I am just going to get a reamer and ream the pitman arm out to fit a chevy TRE if I cant find the dimensions of the above drag links

 

[breel]

Hey codepoet goto vintagebronco.com search "newberry" in tech pages and that will give you everything you need for your steering and track bar

 

[Rick]

4130 tie rod, I would hope you wouldnt bend it!

Want one of my 3 bent ones

I'm now running aluminum. Aluminum springs back to shape after a massive deflection. The Chrome Moly just bends.

 

[Brian1]

Want one of my 3 bent ones

I'm now running aluminum. Aluminum springs back to shape after a massive deflection. The Chrome Moly just bends.

No thanks Rick I was more referring to paying more for the 4130 vs mild steel DOM. I am running 1/4" wall tie rod and drag link on my Jeep, dont think I will be bending that anytime soon. Plus I run the tie rod behind my axle so it is out of the way of just about everything.

I have seen those aluminum ones, they look pretty good. I have heard both positive and negative about them. I am sure you will give it a good test.

 

[RockRanger]

I would have used DOM but all they had was .120 wall in dom. They didnt have anything I could sleve over that to get a thicker wall so I went with the 4130 cause I could get it right then. If I ever redo the steering I will probably try to find just regular DOM