SC and cat back installed, what next?

[wpurple]

Supercharger and catback, everything else stock, what should I do next?

 

[MonumentalX]

Plan on an intake of some sort to maximize that SC and then a chip

 

[wpurple]

I was thinking bigger injectors, MAF and a SCT custom tune.....

this would eliminate the FMU and inline pump and go with a bigger intank one.

 

[SilverBullet]

You should get headers while you're at it. You'd notice a huge difference with that SC.

 

[boominXplorer]

purple, your on the right track as well as silver. but if you were to do all that i would change the pulley too. Also think cam and lifters. What size catback do you have?

 

[Doug904]

The custom dyno tune will help you the most but you will need to ensure you have the right components to do this like you've said, MAF, injectors and maybe even fuel pump. The inline pump won't be affected unless you have some sort of returnless to return conversion. I actually prefer the inline booster pumps as to a larger intank because I've had problems with intanks burning out when you go too large or even worse not deliver enough fuel and cause a lean condition uptop.

If you have a 5.0 Explorer with all a cam and supercharger then you're gonna benefit most from a set of 42lbs injectors and depending on what you're looking to get from it HP wise, either a 80mm GT/Cobra mass air or 90mm 03'Cobra/01up Lightning mass air. If you think you're not gonna get more then around 325-350rwhp then the 80 should be fine but anything above 350 get a 90mm. If you're shooting for even high like 450+ then a SCT BA2400 would be an excellent choice.

Now if you have a S/C 4.0 then you could probably get away with some 30's or 36's for injectors and a 80mm GT maf will be all you'll need. You're not gonna get more then 230-275rwhp with a OHV and 250-300rwhp from a SOHC especially if you haven't even done enough mods to include headers yet. So they are a bit simplier.

If you wanna make it easier on your SCT dealer then stick with a Ford meter, they'll have alot less headaches with it over a Pro-M along with the idle quality and driveability being nicer.

Feel free to shoot me an email and I'll be happy to help. I can give you any info you'll need and then recommend you to your nearest SCT dealer, I wouldn't do a s/c tune to remove the FMU without a dyno tune. This can be very detromental to your engine's health.


Thanks, Doug.

 

[wpurple]

Ford racing dis not recommend headers as it will drive down the low end torque needed in my application for towing.

It has a returnless fuel system and was going to go with a Ford Focus racing pump that is designed to be pulsed as it would be in a returnless system, then bigger injectors and MAF.

I am going to ride with what I have until April when I can see how she does towing.

I would really like to throw a 5 speed manual in as my next project as the extra gear will help plus it would really add to the fun factor.

 

[aldive]

Lets see some pictures of your install.

 

[wpurple]

I am going to spend some time this weekend getting the piks together and posting them.....just seems there is never enough time anymore!

 

[Doug904]

Ford racing dis not recommend headers as it will drive down the low end torque needed in my application for towing.

It has a returnless fuel system and was going to go with a Ford Focus racing pump that is designed to be pulsed as it would be in a returnless system, then bigger injectors and MAF.

I am going to ride with what I have until April when I can see how she does towing.

I would really like to throw a 5 speed manual in as my next project as the extra gear will help plus it would really add to the fun factor.

You kinda have me a bit confused, you say you have an FMU didn't you? as well as an inline pump? If you have these then you must have a return style fuel system. The FMU hooks into the system in the return fuel line and the inline pump would have to go in the system on the rail and since the regulator is above the fuel pump on the returnless system this wouldn't work properly.

Would you elaborate a little more on this?

Thanks, Doug.

 

[wpurple]

I do have a inline pump and FMU on a returnless system....
In this configuration, the FMU goes in parallel with the pump. There is no returnline.
The FMU will regulate how much fuel will bypass the pump. Works quite well actually.

There is a hobb switch, at 1psi of boost the inline pump kicks on and fuel pressure is maintained at 65psi, and increments slowly to 72psi at 6# of boost.

 

[BeauJ]

Maybe Doug can help me on this. I heard from a guy from Kenne Bell on a message board saying if you really want to get more fuel bigger injectors/intank pump won't help if it's already maxed out. He said that you can put a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump on returnless system and did a VERY complex write up on it. How much truth is behind this?

 

[Doug904]

I do have a inline pump and FMU on a returnless system....
In this configuration, the FMU goes in parallel with the pump. There is no returnline.
The FMU will regulate how much fuel will bypass the pump. Works quite well actually.

There is a hobb switch, at 1psi of boost the inline pump kicks on and fuel pressure is maintained at 65psi, and increments slowly to 72psi at 6# of boost.

Huh, sounds right as I can understand how they did it but it just seems a bit weird to me. I would still have to say that the larger injectors and maf would be alot better way to controll the fuel though. Allowing the PCM to make the fuel changes instead of a boost dependant source. You already know this so I'm just saying it for the rest.

As for the Kenne Bell boost-a-pump it is a good way to increase the amount of fuel to the injectors but no matter how big the pump is if the injectors won't flow it then you still only have so much. This is the same basic idea as the FMU, by raising the voltage to the fuel pump under boost they can increase the output of the fuel pump. Where I would see a problem with this on a mechanical returnless system would be with the regulator located on top of the fuel pump then it would still only allow the set amount of pressure. With Wpurple's setup the intank FMU restricts the return from the fuel pressure regulator and therefore kicks up the pressure.

A key thing to remember when choosing pumps, a Pump makes Flow not pressure.


I recommend the boost-a-pumps when the stock fuel pump cannot keep up with the demand not when the injectors are maxed out. On a Explorer or Ranger this can easily be fixed by installing a 155lph or 190lph pump but on a Electronic returnless system like that in a Mustang this isn't the case. For that I would suggest a 03' SVT focus pump up to 350-450rwhp, twin Cobra pump and tank assembly upto 600rwhp and a custom fuel system for anything more. You can use a Boost-A-pump on a GT making around 400-ish and it will compensate but if you make very much more power then you're back to where you've started. Also a boost a pump is $249 where a Focus pump is around $140.

Finally, if you'll note the small disclaimer on the bottom of the Boost-A-pump page it says " NEVER oversize a pump more than 20%." I've never heard of it but I could see where raising the voltage to the pump could be bad for it eventually and make it fail.

Please don't take me wrong on this, I'm not saying it is bad but on a mechanical returnless system unless you have something like Wpurple then it's not gonna do much that a larger pump at half the cost.


Thanks, Doug.

 

[huskyfan23]

Subscribing for pics. You don't have an open-air intake? That'd be the first thing I'd do.

 

[wpurple]

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=406011

is where you can find an explanation of the returnless system.

The kit (Ford Racing/Powerdyne) comes with an open air intake although I did put a wrap on the air filter as the K&N type WILL pass more dirt than a paper when used in very dirty conditions like driving around the roads of CT and the person in front of you is kicking up all the sand/dirt on the roads.

The Ford racing kit's pump is a 200LPH pump.

 

[Doug904]

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=406011

is where you can find an explanation of the returnless system.

The kit (Ford Racing/Powerdyne) comes with an open air intake although I did put a wrap on the air filter as the K&N type WILL pass more dirt than a paper when used in very dirty conditions like driving around the roads of CT and the person in front of you is kicking up all the sand/dirt on the roads.

The Ford racing kit's pump is a 200LPH pump.

That's the same write up as on the Kennebell.net site and it is a very detailed explanition. The big thing to remember on this site is the Explorer's have mechanical returnless atleast up until 02's on the four doors and all the way through on the 2-doors and ST's. They are two totally different systems.

So you already have a 200lph intank pump or is that the rating of the inline? If you're going to drop the inline pump and go with a intank then definatly go with a 255lph.

later, Doug.

 

[wpurple]

The inline pump is 200LPH, I think the stock-in-tank is 110LPH.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

42lb injectors for just having a blower and a few bolt ons? Thats a little extreme isn't it?