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servo-bore fix, 5r55w

Mine was broken the same way. I did the o'ring fix and it's working fine now. I did not see or feel any wear in the bore. I took the new servo piston without the o'rings on it and placed it in the bore and tried moving up and down (where the wear happens). I got absolutely no movement whatsoever, so like the mechanic above, I say there was minimal if any wear of the bore. There may be some inside where the worm hole comes past the pin though. No way to measure. There was no wear on my band either. When I adjusted it and backed it off the two turns, it was back at my original mark.
The nut has an o'ring seal on it. I haven't used a new one yet. This is the second time I've checked the bands. It does not leak.
Tranny has 262k miles on it, and so do I.


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QUESTION: Should I/when should I replace the transmission fluid and what method should I use after replacing the OD servo? My mechanic sort of recommended that I leave the transmission fluid be.

-Mechanic said that if you want to flush you should do it every 30,000 miles. He also said if I replace the fluid with new detergent rich fluid it ''may'' cause havock on my tranny because all the ''gunk'' will be allowed to loosen and circulate.

*Like I mentioned in my other post, my transmission has 106,000 miles. I don't believe the trans fluid has ever been replaced/flushed. I obviously want to avoid loosening up all that gunk that may be stuck in the crevices and allowing it to run wild in my transmission.

I'm starting to experience some slippage in 5th and late shifting into 2nd leading me to believe my OD servo bore is about gone. I've actually had this same issue "repaired" a couple years ago by a shop and I'm wondering exactly what their fix entailed. I can't remember that far back. If they did happen to bore it out and sleeve it, than the same problem with the servo really shouldn't be happening again right?

I am thinking about buying one of the AJ1E o-ring'd servos and fixing it myself. Right now the explorer has 152k on her and its tough for me to justify spending a couple G's.

It may have been sleeved in the past and the sleeve or the piston shaft itself is starting to wear.
Either way it sound like the same issues with the same gears as us here and the cost of the servo kit is definitely better than having a shop tell you that you need new bore sleeves.

Hi everybody. I am going to attempt to do this servo fix.Allready tried pushing in the overdrive servo piston to release the snap ring, does is it really need that much force to acomplish this

Hi everybody. I am going to attempt to do this servo fix.Allready tried pushing in the overdrive servo piston to release the snap ring, does is it really need that much force to acomplish this

Mine needed a fair amount of force but not a extreme amout (if that makes sense). The hard part was pushing it in and keeping it in as you re-installed the snap rings. A good crow bar with a good leverage point will make it go alot smoother.
I've got 145+K miles on my rig now and it still shifts the same as the day after I did the bore install.

Mine needed a fair amount of force but not a extreme amout (if that makes sense). The hard part was pushing it in and keeping it in as you re-installed the snap rings. A good crow bar with a good leverage point will make it go alot smoother.
I've got 145+K miles on my rig now and it still shifts the same as the day after I did the bore install.Thanks for your response brentburton123 ,about how much does the piston is supposed to go in?

Thanks for your response brentburton123 ,about how much does the piston is supposed to go in?

They should move in about 3/32nd - 1/8th inch, just enough to relieve the pressure from the snap rings.

Thank you very much brentburton123,i will keep trying

I have read this whole thread, thinking I may have the same issue. However, my symptoms are slightly different. I have code P0775. From a stop, if I just ease on the gas, it will rev up to 3000 to 4000 before shifting in 2nd. Slightly less while going into 3rd. From that point on it shifts fine and cruise along at 75 in OD no problem. Is this just a different servo that needs replacing? I'm new to all this tranny stuff. Thanks in advance.

Thanks. I've been stalking for some time and have gotten help on many projects.

Glad to see that this post is still active! A month ago with only 189k miles, I started getting the high rev from 2nd to 3rd. And then randomly after driving for a few miles the O/D light would start blinking. It sounds like this is the route I'll be taking in hopes of saving a lot of money. Thanks for all of the tips.

edit: wow, only 3 posts in 6 years!

Uninstalled kit

I have a brand new, uninstalled kit (from WWW.Fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.Com) for the Intermediate and OD servos. My cost was $245 plus $10 shipping.

5R55W Shudder

I got my 02 Explorer 4.0 2WD 5R55W 6 years ago. When I got it, the trans was slipping bad so I took it to AAMCO and they rebuilt it also did the servobore sleeves. I also got the Lifetime Warranty because I did a lot of research on these trans and knew I was going to have problems every 70,000mi's or so. So like I was right. Less than 7mos ago it started to shift hard in 2nd and shudder/hunt between D and OD while doing normal freeway speeds (happens once fluid is warmed up, the OD light would flash rapidly when it did that until I would turn off the car then turn it back on). Side note, I called about the Lifetime Warranty and I had to produce the paperwork to have it serviced under the warranty, but since the car was broken into and the papers lost with other items, I could not produce any papers and that company does not have any computer base showing I purchased it, even called corporate offices and said I was out of luck. So I did ordered the o-ring servo-bore kit and did it pretty much like brentburton's post without taking any exuaust piping off, just the heat-shields and using the crowbar, pain to do. I could see the brass sleeves while it was opened up, also did the 400 grit around a pencil to just slightly take out any rough edges of the bore, but just a little, I did not grind away. Other things I did was change the filter, filled the fluid twice and replaced with Mercon V, also tightened the bands IAW techman. The fluid that was in it was pretty clean to start and the pan had no metallic in the fluid or anything in the pan or magnet other than that fine fuzzy black stuff just barely on the top of the magnet. Put it all back together and took it out for a test drive and no more hard-shifts in second, but still have the shudder while driving at highway speeds (mostly between 65-75mph while its shifting into OD, and more-so going up inclines). I took it on a trip from LA to Vegas and it had the shudder while on inclines mostly and the OD light didn't come on, until the trip home... it started to flash about half-way back home and funny thing is, for the next 100mi's there were no shudders and trans worked wonderfully, but the light was blinking, so we pulled over with 50mi's left on our trip home, shut the car off, started back on the highway with the OD light now off, and the shudder was back. So I then did a lot of research thinking I could fix this with a new shift-kit and solenoid pack(rebuilt) from TRANSGO. All parts came in and did the job this weekend. I took the pan and gasket off after draining fluid (always use a clean glass jar and catch fluid coming out to get a good look at it) the fluid was still very clean, took off filter, reverse-servo, solenoid pack, and valve-body. After inspecting the pan gasket, separator plate and gaskets, they looked good to me. I started doing the shifter-kit which has a pretty good video online someone did for their 5R55S. It was pretty easy. Turns out I already had that same kit in it from rebuild years earlier, but replaced with the new kit any way. I soaked the solenoid pack in Mercon V while I did the valve-body. I then placed the separator back on the valve-body and put it back up into the trans (I took a long thin box and drew out the valve-body, filter, reverse-servo, and solenoid pack and punched holes in the drawings so when I took a bolt out, I just put it in the designated hole to make sure I put them back exactly, also pretty handy to not lose any. Valve body back on and tightned IAW techman sequence/torque, I then installed the reverse-servo, then the solenoid pack, a new filter and pan, all IAW sequence/torque. Another thing I did before I started this job was reset the brain on the car so it would later re-learn shift values and left the battery disconnected till I was all done. I filled the fluid by the book, vehicle was level, had pumped 6qts prior to starting ($5 handpump from HF and nipple bought on amazon), started it, let it warm up, shifted through all gears and let the fluid get to the point of first signs of dribbling out the nipple. ( I was also following steps during this time to correctly let the car learn the new values I purged prior to starting this job). I took it out for 2 test drives. First one was to run the fluid in the trans and other was to learn shift values, and then came back, leveled the car and checked the fluid a 2nd time. A few hours later I took it out again, both test drives it still has the shudder in the same gears when giving slight acceleration as well shifting into OD with slight acceleration. Same symptoms. But this time the OD light did start blinking rapidly near the end of the 2nd test drive as I was nearing the highway exit. But I turned off the car and restarted it and drove and it stayed off. Just got in to write this. Not sure what to do now. What I wrote is not a go-by to do any repairs, just wrote what I did. Retired Navy engineer who likes working on his own cars, but this has me stumped. Also, what's the easiest way to read the codes on this without a scantool, is there a way to jumper and read?

Shudder fixed


Well today I got my 02 Explorer back from Walters Transmissions in Temecula CA. I was going to take it in to AAMCO where they pulled a P0741 and they said it needed a full rebuild and it would start at $1500 not including parts, as I wrote earlier in a post in 2012 I had same AAMCO do a complete rebuild and paid extra for the lifetime warranty which they now won't honor due to a stolen receipt from same explorer. So after talking to the guys at TRANSGO they told me of a trustworthy person they deal with which is Walters. I just drove it 50miles without any shudder or other issues, ran great. Let me again tell you what I have done till I threw in the towel and took it in. I bought and replaced the solenoid pack (rebuilt), put in a new TRANSGO shift-kit (not incl pump part due to couldn't drop trans), replaced int/od servo with oring type, checked bands each time I touched the trans, the separator plate was in good condition, changed the filter 2x during the process, the pan was always clear of any debris other than a little normal black sludge on the magnet, the fluid when I first dropped it was good, and probably drained the fluid 3x during the whole process of when I started on this adventure, even tried to drain the torque convertor but didn't find a plug as I marked it turning the engine by wrench looking up at it through the access cover (I marked an X on it with perm black marker to make sure I did do a full revolution to find plug, but no plug was there), I always torqued everything to specs (I always buy factory manuals for all my vehicles just for reasons like this). The trans looked great up to this point since it was rebuilt back in 2012 by AAMCO and I even saw the new sleeves when I did the servo-bores. So at that point I started looking for a misfire somewhere. I ended up changing my plugs, plug wires(yes, I did find a white spot on at least one wire), coil, air filter, pcv, fuel filter, and did the full reset of the memory by disconnecting the neg battery cable and jumped it from the positive so it could relearn the shift values (can find on youtube). At that point I talked to Mark and Larry at TRANSGO and got Walters info. I have a 69 mustang that is using all my trans stuff to drop another trans. I took the Explorer to Walters Saturday and on Monday they called me yesterday (Wednesday) and said after all the test I needed a new torque converter, I gave the go ahead and they told me it was done today. They also found a kinked evac line which they fixed which may have caused a misfire but not the shudder. They also checked it over pretty good, no other issues. As I was there today, I saw the the converter they pulled out, and it did have the X I marked on it. They said it was stuck pretty good onto the flywheel and took some to get it off. I just drove it home and it runs great. Yes, it's only been a few hours, but if you don't see any more post, you know it's still working. Hope this helps. Lesson learned, always pull your codes first and use a person you can trust. Walter did the job for half of what AAMCO wanted.

Finally bought the OD Servo from AJ1E Superior Solutions. I got the Cap off to find that the Servo Dome was broken.. There was no Bore wear that I could detect but left the O-Rings on the new Servo. Got it put together and was rewarded with a firm shift into 2nd right away. No more Column shifting. Times like these you wonder why you waited so long..