shift kit vs seperator plate

[CDW6212R]

Chris, with any other company, I'd agree, and I would be doing both the Ford TSB parts, and an aftermarket kit.

The reason I have always liked TransGo better than all of the others, is because the primary goal of TransGo has always been different from everybody else. All of the other companies started by making kits to firm up the shifts. Their primary concern was the WOT shifts.
TransGo always, first deals with the inherent problems with a transmission, fixes those, and then improves the shifts. This 5R55E kit is not a high performance kit, like many that they do sell. It is though, like all of their kits, designed to fix the factory problems.

When TransGo told me that I wouldn't need the Ford TSB's if I install their kit, I believed them. If any other company told me that, I'd be very skeptical.

If anyone uses another company's kit, you ought to install the Ford TSB, and Ford separator plate also.

TransGo's instructions suggest replacing the EPC solenoid, because they wear out. I'm hoping to get to Ford and get that today. Maybe I can get to my 5R55E today.
Don

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

2-3 Shift Flare Fixed!.....Hopefully.....

My flare was getting much worse, so I installed my parts this afternoon. Upon teardown, I found NOTHING wrong. The gaskets were good, solenoid bracket was good, pan was clean, and the bolts were at the proper torque.

I installed the Ford updated plate and blowoff valve kit per instructions. Then I installed most of the parts from the Superior kit; (some were not pertinent to my trans, and others required a more detailed teardown). I did enlarge the separator plate holes per instructions. (This took a lot of courage to modify my new plate.) I also installed a new EPC solenoid with a new bracket.

After a quick test drive, the shifts seem to be normal. I got it up to operating temp, and no flares so far. Shifts seem to be 'slightly' firmer.

A couple tips for someone considering VB work: First make a template from the updated separator plate detailing the position of the bolts. A cardboard box bottom is ideal. This way you can keep the bolts in the proper position, since there are about 4 different sizes. Also when re-installing the VB, make sure the manual shift pawl is inserted into the spool groove. (I missed this, and had to do some work over). An in/lb torque wrench is a must (it's better to know the torque rather than to just guess.)

My thanks to all of you for sharing info on VB work, giving me the confidence to tackle this job. It's not hard at all, just takes some time to accomplish. I'll post back when I get some more miles on these modifications.

 

[greg s]

My concern was with the idea that Ford is modifying the plate to solve the problem while Superior and Transgo are doing other modifictions to solve the problems and whether it would all be compatible figuring that Superior and TransGo designed their kits before the Ford TSB. Question for Runnin on Empty, did you check the new plate against the old to see what Ford had changed? Did the Superior kit have you drill holes thru passages in the VB? I thought I had saw a post a while back with pictures and you had to drill thru two passages with the supplied drill bit. Also what comes with the blow off valve kit from Ford? After all the discussion and numerous members doing the updates we should be able to come up with a concise procedure to help others in the future.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Greg, I was disappointed when I found nothing wrong with mine. I was hoping for blown gaskets, or something. That's why I installed the Superior kit, I was more or less experimenting.

I did compare the plates. The updated one had one hole deleted, plus having bonded gaskets to each side. A limit screen, limit valve and spring are also deleted in the old VB. The new blow-off valve looks a lot different than the old one, and it comes with a new keeper. I suspect the new valve re-routes the pressure, thereby keeping new gaskets from blowing.

The Superior kit called for enlarging two holes in the plate, and the drill bits were included. I was hesitant to drill them into the new plate, since their purpose wasn't explained, but did anyway. No drilling into the VB itself was required.

The Superior kit includes a steel modulator valve, to replace an aluminum one. I thought this was good, since alum on alum tends to gall, whereas steel on alum shouldn't. Maybe this was sticking in mine, I just don't know. I'm keeping my fingers crossed until more miles go by. My problem might have simply been a worn-out EPC valve, I just don't know since I replaced everything at once.

I agree, we need to find a solution to this VERY common flare problem. If Don did his install today, I'm sure he'll post the results. It'll be interesting to compare the two kits.

Fire away if there's any other questions. This is not too bad of a job, just takes some patience.

 

[CDW6212R]

I just got home from working on mine at a friends house. I had several other things to do to it, so I ended up with it draining. I loosened the valve body bolts, to drain as much fluid as possible. Everything looked and smelled good, very clean.

My 99 is a roll over wreck, which I am going to use for the drivetrain. I got it started when I first bought it, and it would move around. I don't know if anything was wrong. I often do trans maintenance on a new vehicle. It may be weeks before I finish my big project.

Runnin'OnEmpty, did you remove the left cat pipe. I did that first, to make more room. It was tedious to remove the four corroded bolts, but they did come out.

The TransGo kit does have you drill one hole sideways through a valve body passage. I've done that on the AOD's before. There are actually very few things to do, for a TransGo kit. I think just pulling the VB, bolts and solenoids will be the biggest part of the job.

While under the truck, I noticed that the right axle seal and pinion seal are leaking. I have a lot of work to do, before I can start my project.

Good luck to anyone doing this trans work themselves. Be sure to get the $12-$15 5R55E book from a trans parts store. That will help greatly, especially with the bolts.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Runnin'OnEmpty, did you remove the left cat pipe.

Don, no I didn't need to. Mine is a 2WD and the pan drops straight down, luckily with no clearance problems.

Be sure to get the $12-$15 5R55E book from a trans parts store. That will help greatly, especially with the bolts.

The ATSG manual is almost a necessity. I drew a template of the VB separator plate on cardboard, and punched holes that corresponded with the bolt locations. When I removed the bolts, I placed them in the appropriate holes in the cardboard. This made re-assembly very quick, and I didn't have to worry if the right bolt was in the right hole or not. (There are about 4-5 different sizes to keep track of.)

The Superior kit instructions reference the tailshaft, when describing the plate holes that are to be enlarged. They're toward the rear of the plate, so maybe the purpose of the bigger holes is to provide more lube to the tailshaft bearings.....???

We put a whopping 20 miles on the Explorer today, still no flares and the shifting is perfect. The shifts are slightly crisper than before. I plan to add a bottle of Lubegard Red in a couple days. I wanted to wait before adding it to prevent it from masking anything.....

 

[CDW6212R]

Sounds great, I'm glad you have apparantly fixed your problems. This kind of trans work is wise maintenance for every vehicle, because rebuilding a transmission is so expensive.
It's good for you that you didn't have to play with the cat pipe. It took a while to remove, and if not careful and lucky, the bolts could have stripped, broken or rounded off. I was patient, and fortunate this time.

When I asked for the Lubeguard, I was given the green capped version, for Mercon V vehicles. They evidently have good success with using this with Mercon III. The bottle suggests that together it works better than just Mercon V. I don't know that anything would be gained by using it and Mercon V.

I will likely change the fluid again in a couple of years, so I have bought Castrol Mercon III to try first.
Regards,
DonW

 

[DirtyDog]

I got a 4X4 and didn't have to remove my cat pipe either. I just took the front driveshaft off the front diff ans I sneaked it out. I wanted to see if I could get the pan out without taking the cat off cause that would have been a PITA and it worked. The only thing I didn't put in with the Supirior shift kit was the 2-3 servo spring cause I didn't have the tool but I wanna add a few more thing after reading this thread so I'll borrow the tool from my uncle and do it then.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good luck, I also didn't want to pour trans fluid on top of the catalytic converter. Night,
Don

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

The only thing I didn't put in with the Supirior shift kit was the 2-3 servo spring

DirtyDog, I left out this spring too. It was just too much of a pain to reach, and I figured I could replace it later (if needed) without having to drop the pan again.

All the shifts feel to be of uniform firmness with the spring omitted, so I won't bother to change it unless I have a reason.....

 

[DirtyDog]

All the shifts feel to be of uniform firmness with the spring omitted, so I won't bother to change it unless I have a reason.....

My thoughts exactly

 

[greg s]

Has anyone bothered to adjust the bands while they were working on the trans? Anyone know what the procedure / torque is?

 

[fordkrazy]

i think i saw in a manual that only the a4ld has band adjustment....4r55e and 5r55e are fully computerized and not adjustable...just like you cant set your idol speed and mixture....but hell ive been known to be wrong in the past

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

My 5R55E does have band adjustment screws, although I didn't touch them when I did my work. Looked in the ATSG manual, and it gives the procedure:

Intermediate Band: Loosen lock nut, tighten screw to 10 ft/lbs, and then back off screw exactly 2 1/2 turns and hold that position. Tighten a NEW locknut to 35-45 ft/lbs.

Front Band: Loosen lock nut, tighten screw to 10 ft/lbs, and then back off screw exactly 2 turns and hold that position. Tighten a NEW locknut to 35-45 ft/lbs. (The manual cautions to use only NEW locknuts, and suggests applying petroleum jelly to the locknut seals)

Greg, were you the one with a delayed reverse? The Superior kit has a double lip reverse servo seal, which I installed. That took care of my delayed reverse; it now goes in reverse within 1-2 seconds where before it sometimes took 4-5 seconds. (Got about 80 miles on the trans work now, and still shifts perfectly.) Knocking on wood with fingers crossed.....

 

[Glacier991]

And there are pictures of the procedure in the A4LD Diary (in useful threads). The cases are identical in this regard so the pictures are very relevant.

 

[greg s]

Yes Runnin on Empty, the delayed reverse is my primary problem. I am glad to hear that the superior kit includes the reverse servo seal. Also glad to hear that everything is working well with your tranny, maybe we will get these problems figured out and be able to help others out with some good info. By the way, what tool was required to install the 2-3 servo spring that you left out? Thanks

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

By the way, what tool was required to install the 2-3 servo spring that you left out? Thanks

It's called a servo cover compressor, Ford tool #T95L-77028-A. In the book, it looks like it has to bolt onto two of the pan bolt holes, so maybe the pan does have to come off to use it....?

I'm not sure if Glacier used one or not in his (excellent) rebuild thread, since he had better access with the trans out of the vehicle. It's probably a worthwhile tool, especially if you're working from under the vehicle.

By the way, Glacier's thread calls for 2 turns out on both band adjustments, (for the A4LD). Apparently the specs for the 5R55E are slightly different; 2 turns out for the front band, and 2 1/2 turns out for the intermediate band.