Signal/washer stick help wanted

[hafcanadian]

The turn signal/washer stick on our ‘97 Limited has become funky. Sometimes when using the turn signal it will result in a loud buzzing, like a warning signal. With repeated attempts it will work okay. Plus the washer (press the end of the stick) commonly now doesn’t work. So in a rain, street spray frustratingly smears uncleared under the wipers.

I found continuity through the pump contacts at the bottom of the washer fluid tank, but only 0.01 volt at the pump wire ends when the switch is pressed with the ignition on. Is there a likely scenario that I can fix on my own without taking it to my mechanic? He will likely want to replace the entire stick/switch at some cost. I don’t know how it’s configured under the steering column cover, but I’m just wondering if it may be simply corrosion resistance in a connector somewhere, or a bad relay buried who knows where. Guidance would be appreciated.

-Hafcanadian

 

[XLTrunner]

I had a similar problem when it got cold outside. Replaced the multi-switch. Some take them apart and clean the contacts. I chose to just replace and be done with it. Gaining access is an easy procedure that doesn't require a mechanic. Remove the three phillips head screws on the underside of the bottom half of the strg column cover to separate the two halves. No need to remove the ignition lock, but may need to remove the tilt lever to gain full access, (can't recall if that was really necessary). Then, you'll need a T15 torx screwdriver to remove the two screws that hold the multi-switch in place. Separate the wire connectors and you can then decide whether you want to try repair yours...or, just replace.

 

[J_C]

Those MFS are not expensive, but I'm one of those who opened mine up, cleaned out old hardened grease and oxidized copper with brasso metal polish, put a thin coat of dielectric grease on and sealed it back up. Heh, I wanted to keep the original Motorcraft part rather than buying a generic, and the new motorcraft was a lot more expensive at the time.

However, I had no problem with my washer. I did start to take the end cap off and when you do, there is a little spring and tiny metal cup it sits in that comes flying out so be ready to capture it. I lost mine on the floorboard for a month before I even realized it had flown out and that is why I lost the detents for the different variable wiper speeds.

I don't remember needing to take my tilt level off, maybe I did but if I did, I know it was easier to remove the steering column trim panel by tilting the steering wheel for more clearance.

Another thing to watch out for is a few people have had the steering column wiring harness connector to the MFS, have some of the wire contacts pull out the back. A common fix is using hot glue or epoxy to hold them in from the back, making sure it is lined up with the MFS plugged in so the contacts are set in the right positions. I didn't have that issue but recall some forum posts with pictures... don't know where they are, maybe a forum search will find them.

This is definitely a DIY fix in 15 minutes with a replacement, or a half hour to take apart, clean out and reassemble. There's probably more than one youtube video showing how to remove it.

 

[hafcanadian]

Thanks fellows. That's a big help. I have an appointment with our mechanic Thursday morning for him to check it out.

After emailing him, I called and he'd already dug out and perused the appropriate diagrams. If I find time before Thursday I'll take the bottom of the steering wheel cover off and see what you're talking about. I deal quite often with corroded electronics and have cleaning brushes, tools, and DeoxIT I can use. He mentioned at least one relay in the diagram he'd check.

Just getting a mite old to be on my back under a dash anymore - with astigmatism and near sightedness, it's hard to get to an eye focus point when I can't easily position my head relative to an attention spot that's relatively small, and in a dark place where I struggle to stabilize a flashlight or trouble light.

If it's too frustrating I'll likely leave it to my guy. He already said a new part alone is well over $200.

 

[J_C]

This is not an under-dash job, everything is done sitting upright, IIRC.

The new part is not $200! Maybe only if he is marking it up to $50 and charging $150 for an hour labor!

1997 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Multi-Function Switch | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

You can probably also find the equivalent to the "economy" $29 on Rock Auto, for roughly the same price on Amazon or ebay, though it might have made up brand names but I would search the SM486 part # first. For example I did that just now and found one for $22 on ebay, and it might not even be the cheapest:

Brand New Multi Function Combination Turn Signal Switch Fits Ford Mazda Mercury | eBay

<li> Turn Signal Switch For 1995-1998 Ford Explorer 100% BRAND NEW FREE SHIPPING FROM USA</li> <li>Specifications:</li> <li> <ul> <li>Includes wiper controls</li> <li>Exact replacement</li> <li>Design improved for more...

www.ebay.com

Amazon product ASIN B08YD8PRW5
The nice thing about Rock Auto is if you click the blue "info" icon, it takes you to details that also list the Motorcraft part numbers if you want to pay more for a Motorcraft, then can just search those, though I suspect that any motorcraft part #'s would be new/old stock in the gray market as it is probably discontinued.

 

[Pete Deering]

The turn signal/washer stick on our ‘97 Limited has become funky. Sometimes when using the turn signal it will result in a loud buzzing, like a warning signal. With repeated attempts it will work okay. Plus the washer (press the end of the stick) commonly now doesn’t work. So in a rain, street spray frustratingly smears uncleared under the wipers.

I found continuity through the pump contacts at the bottom of the washer fluid tank, but only 0.01 volt at the pump wire ends when the switch is pressed with the ignition on. Is there a likely scenario that I can fix on my own without taking it to my mechanic? He will likely want to replace the entire stick/switch at some cost. I don’t know how it’s configured under the steering column cover, but I’m just wondering if it may be simply corrosion resistance in a connector somewhere, or a bad relay buried who knows where. Guidance would be appreciated.

-Hafcanadian

I had the same issue ( from the factory), I just replaced it. They are cheap.