SOA and shock mounts...

[AlaskanJack]

Well I think you will be ok. Mine has what appears to be a 4dr leaf pack but I think it actually is the old Superlift add-a-lift spring installed.

I know that Chris used the shock mount adapters NotAjp posted the pic of above. He mounted them to his lower sway bar hole, but I think he will end up moving it up to the upper swaybar hole. The appear to work great.

As for the axle. Chris and I took a lot of measurements on mine and discovered that a longer yoke was used with the stock shaft. If I can borrow a camera tonight I will get some pics posted for you guys to review.

 

[nak4af]

I bought the Warrior percher for the 2.5" axles. It contoured perfectly. I got some leaf pack bolts at a local spring shop. I had to enlarge the shim center hole, the perch center hole and the add-a-leaf (Pro Comp Summit Racing)center hole. The spring pack bolt was just the right size for the Explorer spring pack. Much heavier duty than the Pro Comp leaf pack bolt!

 

[Dre]

SOB.... I think I ordered 3" perches..... might be too big.... soon to find out. In my case I won't install shims.... I'll play with angles.... don't think that this truck will ever go back to stock but if so.... I'll move leafpacks under the axle again...

 

[nak4af]

Pre-setting the angle then welding would be the best route. The 3" perches won't work! You will not be able to get the "U" bolts to go through the spring plate. You will need to get the 2.5" perched.

 

[410Fortune]

avoid using shims if you can, just measure the pinion angle before you weld, or if you are good just eyebell the U joint angle......thats what I did and its been like 2 years no problems at all...........

Why are you guys having such a hard time with the rivets?
Screw the chissel!! that takes forever and jacks up the frame....
Use a 4" grinder and just cut the rivet head off, careful not to get too deep into the frame, then use a punch and poke that sucker through once the head is gone and the rivet is flush with the frame. This takes like 5 min per rivet, it helps if you dont have the weight of the vehicle on the rivet (jack up the frame) Finish it up with some black spray paint and blamo, you're done....

 

[Dre]

sounds like I'm not the only one going crazy with my angle grinder....


I'll call 4wheelparts.com.... see if I can still change the order...

 

[nak4af]

I have a pneumatic punch...no grinder! I am getting it done in about 5 min per rivet as well.

By the way! How could you grind the rivet off with the weight of the vehicle on the rivets? Wouldn't it fall and kill you when the rivet comes out?

 

[Dre]

I don't think that's an issue... you can always prepare for things like this and with a little creativity avoid any injuries...

called 4wheelparts.... order is out so I had to order 2.5" perches - will have to send 3" ones back later....

now on the angle.... should I just angle the rear end directly towards the transfer case or set it somewhere in the middle???

 

[nak4af]

From what a local reputable gear shop told me, the angle of the rear axle yoke should be the same angle of the transfercase case output yoke angle. I'm not sure about that! As long as the rear pinion angle doesn't point upward in relation to the driveshaft. Also realize that when you hit the gas, your axle will deflect upwards. Make sure you don't go upwards so far that it rips your ujoints apart.

The best I could come up with was...weld the top perches about 1/2' closer together in the rear of the axle. That should be around 3 degrees. AlaskanJack Superlift setup has the slide in bracket (welded in) with a 3 degree shim. His angle looks perfect and he has no vibration problems. Any "new" vibration in the driveline will be your "RED FLAG".

 

[Robb]

now on the angle.... should I just angle the rear end directly towards the transfer case or set it somewhere in the middle???

Depends on the type of driveshaft you have. I have heard of both being used on Explorers, and I am not sure which applications received which. If you have a double carden-style (two ujoints together) at one end, then aim the diff yoke directly at the tcase yoke. If you have single ujoints at each end of the driveshaft, the diff yoke should be mounted parallel with the tcase yolk, therefore giving you equal and opposite angles at each ujoint.

 

[nak4af]

Originally posted by Robb
If you have single ujoints at each end of the driveshaft, the diff yoke should be mounted parallel with the tcase yolk, therefore giving you equal and opposite angles at each ujoint.

That's the set up I was refering to. The $350 I stated earlier fo the price of a new driveshaft was for one with a CV joint comming out of the transfercase. It would probably be better for me to have a CV in case I did add the add-a-leaf or Warrior shackel.

 

[NOTAJP]

Binding

I was referenceing other members that have had a problem with the shocks hitting the mount on the axle. I'm glad to hear it works well. That is some nice flex!

 

[Dre]

and I'm digging even further... waiting for parts to arrive I dropped gas tank today... this whole thing is all rusty underneath... I dropped it since I'd like to replace brake line that runs behind it. I hope dealers still stock it... otherwise I'd have to buy a long piece of tubing and replace it.... oh boy, I'm just giving myself more work...

 

[410Fortune]

$350 for the drivehsaft? OUCH!

I had a 4 door Explorer shaft shortened for the BII with the lift.
It has a CV joint at the T case and a single u at the pinion.
Less then $200, I got the shaft for free...

I belive I said is is easier to punch the rivets through with the weight of the vehicle OFF of it...suspension hanging....

Jack stands of course!

On the BII I had to convert a 97 AWD 5.0L Ex disc braked 8.8 to spring over. I ground off all the control arm and sway bar mounts and fitted the axle with the stock BII shock mounts (welded cut off old 7.5)
the BII spring sit closer than the Ex so everything had to be measured. For 3-4" of lift the pinion angle was adjusted.

I left the stock Ex spring under perches for three reasons.
1. they hold the brake lines for the discs
2. they are perfect place to jack from
and 3. the U bolts fit around them.

I am using a hybrid BII/ranger swaybar and for the U bolt plates U found 8.8 Ranger ones that dont have the shock ears like the Ex.........

If it wasnt for the BII shock setup (pass in front of axle, drivers behind) I would have left the Ex sway bar mount for the shocks, it works perfect!

 

[nak4af]

I stayed up all night to finish my Skyjacker install. All is done except for the pittman arm. I rented a gear pouller but it didn't cut it. After test fitting the springs, I decided to remove the f- 150 spacers. The front is still on jack stands until I get the pittman arm on and the stering linkage set-up. I'll have to wait to see what it willl look like when I'm totally finished.