SOHC V6 Supercharger | Page 20 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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SOHC V6 Supercharger

The purpose of this thread is to discuss the design and possible development and installation of a supercharger for my 2000 Sport SOHC V6 engine. I have no first hand experience with forced induction systems and want to learn from forum members that have them on their vehicles. While I don't plan to implement a turbocharger system, there are many problems common to all types of forced induction systems.

The easiest and least expensive solution would be to modify a Ranger SOHC V6 Banshee kit and purchase a used Thunderbird supercoupe positive displacement blower. However, the kit makes no provisions for an aftercooler which I think is beneficial even with only 5 psi of boost.

The Explorer Express supercharger kit includes a quality looking manifold but one is very difficult to obtain.

Once again, there are no provisions for an aftercooler.

I suspect the best solution for me would be a centrifugal supercharger with a water aftercooler. With my oil coolers and remote filters I have very little room in front of the radiator for an intercooler. I am interested in a boost in the range of 5 to 8 psi - enough for a significant performance increase but not so much to adversely impact reliability and require beefing up of engine internals or the transmission/torque converter.

Procharger sells a kit for the 2005 - 2010 Mustang V6.

But the Mustang configuration is opposit to the Explorer - intake on left and battery on right. Also, there is a lot more room between the engine front and the radiator rear on the Mustang than on the Explorer.

Vortech also makes a kit for the Mustang but there are the same problems.


The logical location for a centrifugal supercharger is the same side as the air filter box and intake manifold inlet port. Unfortunately, that is where the alternator is located. I'm investigating the possibility of replacing the belt driven power steering pump with an electric motor driven pump and then relocating the alternator to the old power steering pump location.

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unbraided annular corrugated metal hose

The unbraided stainless steel hose is the photo is probably good to 1500 degrees F and 80 psi. The stainless steel has good corrosion resistance properties. I can order one online with a union at each end from Hosecraft USA for about $125 plus shipping. I'd also need two compression to pipe fittings and I can get 45 degree or 90 degree elbows. I could use a 90 degree ($19) downstream of the DPFE orifice and a 45 degree ($20) at the EGR valve. The compression fittings for that price are only carbon steel with a zinc plated finish and rated at 400 degrees F but I doubt they would leak considering the low pressure (< 5 psi) involved.

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2002 egr

I hope the cutting and welding goes well, that is an awesome idea.
Here is a picture of the 2002 egr bolted upside down just for anyone to see how it fits.
There is plenty of clearance with the vacuum hoses too.

I like the convoluted hose, sure beats custom bending copper pipe. I had to change egr pipe set up many times. A flexible one would make it so much easier. Expensive though, but quality costs!


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What's this?

Thanks for posting that photo. The 2002 EGR valve has more angle on the spout than I realized. I'll use one of them if my cut and weld idea doesn't work. Your EGR installation came out good. It looks like you have easy access to the oil fill tube and the engine oil dipstick which are my concerns. What's that in the photo connected to a vacuum hose and what might be a check valve?

I notice that you moved your fuel hold down aft instead of forward to avoid interfering with the EVR. What's in the large loom located between the EVR and the fuel line?


The part with the red arrow is a vacuum tank. It was under the intake manifold. I had the butterfly manifold with the intake manifold tuning valve.
You have a write up on that system, with great pictures by the way.
And that is a check valve in the vacuum line.
When I installed my m90 I was concerned that I would have to return it to stock to get a sticker on the windshield but I never had to. Anyhow I was trying to retain all components just in case. I still have it on the M112 set up but could probably just remove it.
Also I must note here that my M90 kit was an earlier design with different fuel rails (bigger). I don't believe there was any room to move the hold down forward. Ron has redesigned the fuel rails and when I changed to the M112 I changed them also. So now I have fuel rails probably more like the ones you have. My intake upper plate is different to adapt the M112 and it actually comes out over top of the fuel rails so there is no need for hold downs.
The vacuum line between the EVR and the Fuel Line is the evaporative emission's purge hose, there was one on each side to the underside of the butterfly manifold as you will remember. I didn't want to separate the "T" off that vacuum hose in case I had to return to stock. I have a drawer full of plastic and rubber plugs that I have saved over the years just in case I need to plug something up. I found a plastic "fuel pump assembly" plug and drilled a hole through it to attach the quick release evaporative hoses to vacuum lines.


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EGR valve mod progress

I took my old stock EGR valve to the machinist this morning for experimentation. Under close examination it was determined that there are two clips at the base of the vertical section that hold some part of the valve. Therefore it is necessary to avoid those tabs when cutting. The cut had to be done at an angle.

The machinist cut the valve, shaved off sections of both pieces to get the angle I wanted, tack welded the two pieces, and then filled in the open spaces with welds.

He also silver brazed a cut off end (flared section) of the EGR tube to a standard copper 1/2" dia. 45 degree pipe fitting.

Using standard copper tubing and fittings I should be able to obtain my desired routing for the EGR pipe.

serpentine belt

I decided against trying to add another idler pulley to increase blower and alternator pulley belt wrap. With a max on only 8 psi of boost it's unlikely the belt will slip on the blower pulley and it's very crowded where the pulley mount would be. The specified belt in the Banshee kit is Dayco 5061045 and assumes a stock M90 pulley. I didn't get a belt in the kit because I was going to use a smaller (2.7" dia.) pulley. According to posted specifications the kit belt has a length of 104.53". I computed half of the pulley circumference difference between the two pulleys as 0.63" so yesterday I purchased the next size smaller (Dayco 5061038) with a length of 103.75 (0.78" difference). Today I temporarily installed the pulley and tried to install the belt. Even with the tensioner pulley fully retracted and not even touching the belt I couldn't install it. I tried to slip the belt onto the alternator pulley last but couldn't get over the lip. Then I tried the blower pulley last and had the same problem. Tomorrow I'll exchange the belt for the 5061045 and attempt another installation. I want the belt to be as tight as possible to reduce the chance of slipping on the 240 amp alternator pulley which does not have a lot of belt wrap. Although, the only time the alternator would ever put out it's max rating would be if I get around to installing an electric power steering pump or an electric radiator cooling fan and electric water pump.


Your EGR setup is looking good! Looks like a nice weld too!
Those clips in the egr valve are probably holding the seat in place.

As far as belt slippage goes, I ran the m90 set up for a couple of years with no extra pulley. Then I installed one later because there was allot of black powder forming on the alternator from the belt slipping. I ended up with more wrap on the alternator and supercharger. You might be ok without it, but if it gives you problems you can change things up later if needed. I just used two pieces of 3/16 metal I got from Home Depot and another Idler puller. I used an old GM strut bolt to bolt the pulley to the metal and some old head bolts to bolt the metal to the cylinder head.
Also I found that two belts with the same number from PepBoys, one was Goodyear, the other was a cheap brand, were not the same size. LOL.
It worked out so if one brand did not fit just right, I would try the other brand and it would fit perfect. I think the one I have now I had to order off the internet because no one stocked it. Damn, I better pick up a spare.

belt cross reference table

I used this belt cross reference guide to compare brand names. Then I checked the specification for each belt. The Dayco 5061038 was 0.56 inch shorter than the equivalent Gates K061037. For Dayco specifications: Dimensional Lookup: Serpentine Belts For the Gates specification I just searched the cross reference part number on O'Reilly's website.

The EGR valve I showed is just a prototype. I have to test it to make sure the cutting and welding didn't affect it's functionality then I've give the machinist the new Motorcraft one I purchased on ebay to modify. When I get all the EGR pipe plumbing cut and fit the way I want I'll make alignment marks on fittings and pipes and then get them all brazed together. I may use one of the kit supplied 90 degree elbow compression fittings to transition from the lower stock section to the upper copper pipe section. That way if one of the orifices goes bad I can fix it myself by purchasing an assembly from a salvage yard and then cutting just the lower section. The compression fitting will also allow some alignment adjustment.

metal thermostat housing

I received notification this morning that my sensors and clips for the metal lower thermostat housing were shipped and will be here tomorrow. If they fit the housing correctly I'll delay completing the main intake long enough to install the thermostat housing. I won't wait on the custom top for the air filter enclosure try an engine start. I think there is enough room for my smaller Akimoto 3" dia. racing cone air filter resting on top of the lower section of the enclosure. It should have comparable airflow to the Spectre 4" dia. cone filter. I don't want to skew the forced induction dyno results with an Amsoil Eaa drop in filter and cold air intake.

I tried the Dayco 5061045 serpentine belt today and it's just the right length. The lip on the blower pulley is taller than the lip on the alternator pulley. The belt is too short to slip onto the blower pulley last but just long enough to slip onto the alternator pulley last.

I'll check the modified EGR valve for flow and no flow using a hand vacuum pump. The new EGR valve should be here by Friday.

Tonight I disassembled the stock vacuum harness and will use parts from it to kluge together connections on the driver side. I still need to replace the booster check valve grommet(s) when I run the vacuum hose from the valve to the plenum.

The semi-rigid hose that came with the vacuum/boost gauge came in a 3" dia. coil. Trying to route it is like working with a coil spring so I stretched it out and tied it a few days ago to see if that helps.

Dont worry that dayco will stretch and probably fit over any of them.i dislike dayco belts:(you also dont want it to tight, but sure you know

passenger side delays

Assembling the main intake is on hold pending installation of the metal lower thermostat housing which is on hold pending receipt of a bolt. Soaking the lower mounting bolt in PB Blaster overnight did not free it from the housing. I think the two parts are permanently bonded and I realized if I cut the bushing away from the bolt I would not be able to install my stock housing as a backup to the metal one. I called the local Ford dealer to see if they a bolt and was told no, I would have to come in to order it, pay in advance and buy a package of four at more than $7 each. I called Tasca parts and they had them in stock at about $3.50 each with a minimum shipping charge of $10 so I ordered two. I should get them Monday. While I'm waiting I probably should remove the transmission dipstick housing and see if I can bend it to move the dipstick about 1 1/2" aft of the stock position to avoid the TPS.

I think I've come up with a simple way to mount the remote IACV box using two pieces of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum stock. I'll have to relocate the M90 upper socket bolt on the driver side to get the vertical distance between the upper and lower socket bolts to be about the same as the distance between the upper and lower mounting holes on the back of the IACV box.

By the way, once the metal thermostat housing is installed it will not be able to connect or disconnect the sensor connectors without disconnecting the fuel hose to the passenger fuel rail fitting.

EVR vacuum connections

I completed the EVR vacuum hose connections. I used sections of the stock vacuum harness and spliced the semi-rigid hoses together with the flexible hose.

I tried to remove the power brake booster check valve to replace the grommet but wasn't successful. I didn't want to break it so I quit until I can do some research.

Booster check valve

I used brute force to rock and pry the power brake booster check valve out and then removed the associated grommet. The check valve tested good but the grommet was dried out and pretty hard so I replaced it. I ran 3/8" diameter hose to the plenum fitting. I also ran a vacuum hose from the plenum to the evap emissions canister purge valve connector.

I cable tied the two hoses together and then made a bracket that mounts to the ground strap stud to keep them away from the EGR valve. I guess the next thing is to route the EGR pipe.

EGR pipe routed

After quite a bit of repositioning and using various fittings and pipes I have completed routing the EGR pipe.



The 90 degree compression elbow provides some angle and length adjustment and allows removal of the upper section without disturbing the lower section. I'll place alignment marks on all of the connections that need to be brazed. My Dynomax VT muffler valve is specified to begin opening at 0.29 psi. I wonder if the unbrazed EGR pipe would hold together for an engine start (idle only). I'll add insulation after the pipe is brazed.

The new bolts for the lower metal thermostat housing are supposed to arrive tomorrow. If so, I'll resume work on it.

EGR pipe

I recommend getting some DEI wrap or some OEM egr pipe wrap to cover that egr tube when your are finished with it. It will keep the surrounding area and even your hands from getting to warm.
Do you have enough room over top the coil for another one to accept your dual spark design?

2nd coil pack

Yes, there's horizontal room to stack another coilpack on top of the existing one. That was one reason for the first jog from the EGR valve. Intentionally, no hoses or wires are located directly above the existing coilpack and when I measured a while back I determined there was just barely enough vertical space to the hood for stacking. I don't know what thread the stock hold down screws are but they're probably M4-0.7. If so, the longest socket head or hex head cap screw that McMaster-Carr sells is only 100mm which won't be long enough. I'll probably have to purchase a 1 meter long threaded rod and use spacers and hex nuts.

You must be getting close to firing her up. The suspense is killing me.

no bolts yet

The thermostat housing bolts did not arrive yesterday so I started routing the vacuum/boost gauge semi-rigid hose. I cable tied it to the windshield wiper electrical loom that routes around the power brake booster.

Then I poked another hole for it in the grommet that has the transmission range selector cable, air/fuel ratio meter O2 sensor loom, and the loom from my oil pressure sensor and no longer used MAF sensor amp going thru it. I poked yet another hole for the fuel pressure sensor loom and started routing it. I also removed the ATF dipstick housing. It is rather stout and will be difficult to bend without a pipe bender.

I am anxious to attempt an engine start but need to be patient and maximize the chance of success. The Accusump holds enough oil for two attempts if I deactivate it as soon as pressure registers on the gauge. That's one disadvantage of it compared to an electric oil pump. My biggest concern is wiring errors as they will be difficult to correct since everything is bundled and secured. When I get the IAC valve, EVR, MAF sensor and TPS connected I'll perform a datalog with the ignition on to check sensor connections via the PCM. Then I'll load the initial forced induction tune and perform the same datalog to make sure it has no problems. Then I'll try an engine start with the boost gauge laying on the passenger seat, no electronic fuel pressure regulator, no intercooler pump power, no throttle linkage, and the Akimoto cone air filter resting on the lower section of the air filter enclosure. I may not even wait to mount the remote IAC valve box. If the engine starts and idles I'll pressurize the Accusump, check again for fuel and coolant leaks, and then perform a datalog. I'm glad I added fuel stabilizer to the tank before starting the M90 installation because it's taken me a long time only working two hours a day.

Even if the engine starts I'll still have a lot to do before a test drive. First, I'll order the hood bubble. While waiting for it I'll pull the instrument cluster, fix the burned out air bag warning light, install the vacuum/boost gauge and the new oil pressure gage, rewire the pillar pod controls, install the A/C compressor and passenger air bag switches, and install and mount the longer throttle cable. When the hood bubble arrives I'll have to cut the hood and install the bubble. After all that's done I still won't be trying much boost until I've done some driving data logs so James can refine the initial tune.

ATF dipstick tube bender

To obtain clearance between the ATF dipstick and the TPS I needed to bend the tube aft about 1.5".
First I traced an outline of the tube section needing modification.

Then I inserted the tube in my custom tube bender.

The rag prevents scratching the bumper and the breaker handle with the grip removed provided leverage.
After several small bends in different places on the curve I achieved the desired result.

Feeling lucky at this point I decided to try bending the mounting bracket 180 degrees. Here it is in the stock configuration.

I managed to bend it without it breaking but am still working on getting the correct amount of downward angle for the increased height of the tube.

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You could always buy one of our kits and everything would just bolt up :). And there is a compatible methanol/water injection kit and intercooler kit available.

EDIT: Our kit also includes two (2) 6pk pulleys (3.0 & 3.5psi) on a quick change system. This will keep your belt from slipping on the supercharger and give you the ability to change boosts. We also offer the 5.5 & 8.0 psi pulleys separately :)