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How to: SOHC V6 Timing Chain Inspection & Repair

ef2764

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On a side note

What else should I replace while the engine is out? I don't want to do a full rebuild but I imagine a fresh oil pump wouldn't be a bad idea.

Thoughts?

J
 


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laker82

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Sorry to hear. I was running NAPA synthetic and only heard a light ping, more ERG ping than rattle. But my hearing is not the best.
I found it easier to unbolt the mounts to block and lower the engine to get a little more gap for the top back bolts. Removed the bottom bolts after hanging the engine. Same on install.
Left header off made it easier to get past the pumps. Did not remove Power steering.
 




Tech By Trade

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What else should I replace while the engine is out? I don't want to do a full rebuild but I imagine a fresh oil pump wouldn't be a bad idea.

Thoughts?

J

That's all I did when I did mine. Oil pump chains, gears and guides.
 




laker82

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If you look at Post #1 photo you will see valve contact on the cylinders, bent valve stems follow that contact. Broken chains may be a more common contact cause than worn guides.
Changing the pump requires removing the 2nd section of oil pan, that gets you into new seals. I found the discounted Ford pump was as cheap as aftermarket pump after the special screens get added on.
 




Drewmcg

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I don't think you need to change the oil pump w/o good reason. Oem one is built like a brick and spun smoothly with the jackshaft, so I left it alone.

If you do change pump you can re-use your old Ford p.u. screen (except for one manufacturer). Just be sure to really inspect in the recess under the opening between the plastic shroud and the screen with a pick to get out any bits of guide that may have lodged in there.

Even if you don't want to machine the heads (valve job) and replace the piston rings, you might still want to replace the head gaskets (to forestall blowing one).

Engintech parts (no, I don't work for them) I noticed are 10% off for October @ Rockauto. You can get two head gaskets and two sets of head bolts for a little over $50 (shipped) right now; or the whole gasket set (including exhaust manifold and intake manifold) for a little over $100. My intake manifold gaskets were definitely shot and I've seen youtube videos where these engines make quite a lot of racket if an exhaust manifold shakes loose....
 




Tech By Trade

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The oil pan gaskets are garbage in the engine tech set as well. I had to cut a bunch off the upper gasket to get it to seat right. Luckily I have no leak.
 








laker82

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NTP 90398SB from Napa
Not quite the same kits, Napa lifetime warranty, Ebay call.
Napa has jack shaft gears and balance shaft gears. That may be more than you need.
When you get into the details; head bolts and harmonic bolt are one use bolts.
"Complete" is not always the same vendor to vendor.
 




2000StreetRod

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Import/Export company in Mexico

Diamond Power is a brand name for an import/export company (Diamond Automotive SA de CV) located in Mexico. I seem to remember researching them before and learned that they don't make anything - they just repackage. Their parts could come from anywhere in the world and just be junk. For critical engine parts that require significant time and energy to replace I use quality parts. I think that Rock Auto sells Cloyes' kits that have a good reputation for quality vs cost.
 




Drewmcg

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Diamond Power is a brand name for an import/export company (Diamond Automotive SA de CV) located in Mexico. I seem to remember researching them before and learned that they don't make anything - they just repackage. Their parts could come from anywhere in the world and just be junk. For critical engine parts that require significant time and energy to replace I use quality parts. I think that Rock Auto sells Cloyes' kits that have a good reputation for quality vs cost.

+1 Cloyes kits (OEM) from Rockauto. My '02 XLS got 179k+ out of the first set of cassettes!

... and don't forget to enter the coupon code available on this site for 5% discount @ Rockauto....
 








ef2764

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Balance shaft timing

So I took off the balance shaft sprocket to change the tensioner because I couldn't get the bolts out of the tensioner mount. The sprocket is funky looking it has half a key in it that doesn't engage with the keyway on the sprocket. I'm assuming that this setup is just like the cams where the timing chains position is irrelevant as long as the balance shaft relationship to TDC is correct. Has anyone messed with these before? If so what's the story with the funky gear who's key doesn't engage the shaft.

Thanks

J
 








laker82

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You are talking about the crank side gear? It is keyed to the crank and the main drive to the jackshaft is also keyed with a smaller key. You can almost see it on post #5 photo.
You have to remove the main guide to get at the balance shaft guide.
 




2000StreetRod

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removing balance shaft sprocket

So I took off the balance shaft sprocket to change the tensioner because I couldn't get the bolts out of the tensioner mount. The sprocket is funky looking it has half a key in it that doesn't engage with the keyway on the sprocket. I'm assuming that this setup is just like the cams where the timing chains position is irrelevant as long as the balance shaft relationship to TDC is correct. Has anyone messed with these before? If so what's the story with the funky gear who's key doesn't engage the shaft.

Thanks

J

Did you remove the sprocket at the end of the balance shaft (left sprocket in the photo below)?
BlncShft.jpg

If so, I don't see how that would help to remove the vertical bolts that retain the balance shaft chain tensioner. In order to remove those the block cradle has to be removed. The following thread explains the timing: Balance Shaft Timing Procedure
 




ef2764

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Balance shaft

Yes I removed the sprocket. This allowed me to move the chain and swap the plastic tensioner piece onto the old bracket. I read the timing thread and it doesn't really tell me what I need to know
 




Tech By Trade

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Took me a bit to remember.
When I did mine, i pulled the bottom 2 bolts out to get the lower guide off, then there were 2 more on the back to pull the rear. The whole shaft came out, and i slid the inner sprocket off the crank. Next I used the marking on the gear to time the balance shaft and put it back on.

You may be SOL because I don't know if there is a way to time that gear to the balance shaft. I'm pretty sure there is nothing stopping it and the gear from turning other than the bolt that holds it on.
 




2000StreetRod

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look for marks

Engine disassembly instructions:

"79. NOTE: DO NOT remove the balance shaft sprocket bolt.
On 4 x 4 vehicles, remove the balance shaft chain and crankshaft sprocket."

Look at the back of the sprocket and the front of the shaft for matching indentions. If found, reassemble.
 




ef2764

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Harmonic balancer not seated all the way

So I got the engine reassembled and put back in. No more noises hooray. However after about a 15 minute test drive I spit out the serpentine belt. When I got a new belt today and installed it I noticed that it is riding funny on the crank pulley. I shut the motor off an re-seated the belt on the crank pulley and it jumped again. It is jumping in towards the motor which tells me that the balancer isn't seated all of the way. When I installed it I used a 2X4 and a hammer. It went on smoothly and I thought seated all the way onto the crank. It torqued fine but is about one ribs width off from where it is supposed to be.

Any thoughts?

J
 


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2000StreetRod

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crankshaft sprocket removed?

Did you remove the crankshaft sprocket?
CrankgearFront.JPG

If you removed it and then installed it backwards the harmonic balancer will not seat in the correct position.
CrankGearRear.jpg

The harmonic balancer seats in the recessed area of the sprocket.
 




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