SOHC V6 Timing Chain Saga

[CDW6212R]

Some of the stamping on the block should be the date of manufacture, the last of the VIN number, and the part number base, plus casting numbers. So it's likely got a lot on it, start with the outside near the back, lower.

To post pictures you either have them hosted on another site like Image Shack, or pay to be Elite($20) and then you can upload from the PC.

 

[2000StreetRod]

VIN location

There were only three possible engines in 1997: 4.0L OHV V6, 4.0L SOHC V6 and the 5.0L OHV V8. The eighth digit in the VIN identifies the engine type. X = OHV V6, E = SOHC V6, P = OHV V8

The location of the last 7 digits: VIN location

 

[AussieExplorer1]

2000StreetRod ,I believe the only timing chain related counterclockwise tightening bolt is the rear camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. All other bolts tighten clockwise. If you had read the thread linked in my last post I pointed out that it took 70 ft-lbs to loosen the jackshaft rear sprocket retaining bolt. I have used a chain attached between the jackshaft front sprocket and the head to keep the jackshaft from rotating......

If you PM me your e-mail address I'll send you a copy of the 2005 Mustang SOHC V6 assembly instructions.

Hi 2000StreetRod , I definitely undone the rear jackshaft torque screw cap off anti-clockwise and tightens up clockwise. Holding the assembly in my hand as i write and is a RHS thread on the rear.

PM sent , and once again guys thank you for all the input.

cheers


PS , my one is the definitely a " E = SOHC V6 " , vin numbers are as follows 1FM2V34E1WZA##### if I haven't made a error. ,

 

[cjmedina]

If the oil pump has been removed for any reason it should be primed before starting the engine. Otherwise, it will be filled with air and may not draw oil from the pan for an extended period. A convenient method of priming the pump is when the engine is inverted just prior to installation of the lower oil pan as shown in the photo below.
View attachment 58935
Simply pour engine oil into the oil pickup tube and then manually rotate the crankshaft until oil is pumped out the port for the spin on oil filter. Install the pan and rotate the engine on the stand to an upright position. Do not rotate the crankshaft unless there is at least several quarts of oil in the pan. Otherwise, air will be drawn into the pump as it forces out the oil and the pump will lose it's prime.

I'm in the process of assembling my engine and want to make sure the oil pump is primed with oil before starting the engine.

I'm at the point of installing the lower cage and pan.

If after pouring oil in to the pickup and purging the pump of air with oil, the engine will then be turned to a position of straight up. There are no heads installed at this point so the crank can not be turned. Also won't the oil run out when turned to an up position on on stand?

I can't remove the drive access cover so I'm at a loss to find a solution to having this pump primed with oil before I start this engine??????

Cliff

 

[CDW6212R]

The key is that the oil pump have something in it, not dry. It should be fine with just oil, many people use a thicker viscosity oil, a little Vaseline, or assembly lube. Avoid turning the pump much after you have it installed until it's ready to start.

 

[cjmedina]

The key is that the oil pump have something in it, not dry. It should be fine with just oil, many people use a thicker viscosity oil, a little Vaseline, or assembly lube. Avoid turning the pump much after you have it installed until it's ready to start.

I installed the cradle and put on a set of spare heads and gears on loosle so I can turn the crack to prime the pump and the oil came out the filter port when turned

Next, I have to install the filter adapter then the harmonic balancer.

When I turn the engine on the stand to heads side up can I put oil in it and prime the pump by turning the crank?

Cliff

 

[CDW6212R]

With the pan on sure. The oil pump just needs to have something good put in it when it's installed. Basically just a dry pump that someone might take apart and clean with brake cleaner, that could be a problem at start up. If you have something in it now, it should be okay. The priming of the pump manually before a first start is what this is about. You do that to be sure the pump does prime and pump oil before actual engine starting.

When I replaced my pump when I first bought my truck(did all the timing work before first drive), I had filled the pump with 40 weight. I didn't turn the engine/crank much until it was ready, and I cranked the engine by key with the coil unplugged. I got oil pressure very quickly, plugged the coil in, and the started it.

 

[cjmedina]

Today I took care of some odds and ends that are easy to do when the engine is on a stand. First I replaced the dried out and no longer sticking tape on the electrical and vacuum looms with black electrical tape.

When I removed the dipstick holder from the block the large, thick O ring that fits between the holder flange and the block fell apart. I replaced it with a new one as identified by the green arrow in the photo below.
View attachment 59136
I also checked the condition of the smaller O ring that fits inside the block as identified by the red arrow. I bent the dipstick holder support bracket so when bolted in place the flange would exert pressure on the large O ring.

My EGR tube heat sleeving has unraveled a little at each end so I installed hose clamps as indicated by the red arrows in the photo below. The heat sleeving helps the EGR tube retain heat which reduces condensation in the DPFE sensor tubes/hoses.

Dale do you know what I can use to replace the sleeving?

Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

heat sleeving

Dale do you know what I can use to replace the sleeving?

Cliff

When I installed my Accusump the oil hose passed near the exhaust pipe so I purchased some heat resistant sleeving at Advance Auto. It was fairly expensive but did the job. It may not be large enough diameter to pass over the EGR tube fittings. Another possibility is exhaust manifold wrap with metal hose clamps or wire at each end.

 

[Sedition]

The photo below illustrates why it is necessary to remove links in multiples of two when shortening the timing chain.

One link consisting of two sections of two metallic strips is attached with a pin to the next link consisting of three sections of strips - single outers and double middle.
I realized today that I can determine if removing two links is possible without taking apart the chain. A single link of chain corresponds to one tooth of the sprocket. So I installed the jackshaft and loosely attached the old rear jackshaft sprocket and chain. Then I just installed the chain on the camshaft sprocket shortened one tooth as shown below.

Next I tried to install the camshaft sprocket with the chain shortened two teeth (two chain links) as shown below.

Even stretched taught and with no guide assembly I could not seat the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft. So now I'm convinced that shortening the chain is not feasible and I can proceed with assembling the engine using the latest Ford cassette as soon as it arrives.

Do you think that mounting a sprocket with spacers on the guide bolt would keep the chain suffieciently tensioned? or at least as a quick fix until some equiptment can be obtained.

Or if not, then perhaps drilling a hole through the center of a solid plastic object then cutting or grinding it to shape to put in place of the original guide bracket. Using the guide bolt to hold it firmly in place.

I think it could work as long as there is appropriate chain tension. What I am unsure about however is the whether the guide bolt would be strong enough to take the load. Being that it is on the side of the chain that wants to pull strait.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated

 

[2000StreetRod]

kluge guide

The traction side of the guide assembly is curved creating displacement of the chain for much of the length of the guide.

I doubt there is enough distance between the upper bolt and the camshaft sprocket to install something that would make up the difference. I would be hesitant to put something in the engine that was not designed for the hostile environment. It might break apart and a piece could get wedged between the chain and the head resulting in a slipped or broken chain. The guide bolt is fairly strong - enough to keep the upper end of the guide in place when deflecting the chain. However, it is not a bearing. Remember that the camshaft can rotate at speeds exceeding 3,000 rpm (PCM rev limit is 6,350 rpm for the crankshaft). If you insert something half the diameter of the camshaft sprocket it will rotate at twice the speed of the camshaft.

I don't know how many degrees the camshaft timing is changed when the timing chain is straight instead of deflected by the guide. However, it may not be enough to significantly degrade performance. My main concern would be that the hydraulic/spring tensioner may be extended to its limit and not keeping the chain taught increasing the chance of slippage.

 

[bigredscowboy]

I've read through this thread a dozen times and can't remember, Do you have to pull the heads to get the camshaft cassettes out?

 

[2000StreetRod]

heads can stay on

I've read through this thread a dozen times and can't remember, Do you have to pull the heads to get the camshaft cassettes out?

No, thankfully.

 

[bigredscowboy]

Getting ready to close everything up but have a few uh-oh (did I eff up?) questions. Put the upper oil pan in and then stopped and found a few things so I stopped work...
1. Does the rear jackshaft screw need to be centered? looked back there and saw this before I eyeball centered it

2. These were left over in the timechain kit. what do they go to?

3. Big uh-oh, found this, what does it go to? (please tell me it doesn't go in before the oil pan)

4. Is there any need to put new o-rings on Torx cassette screws?

(note the timing tool welds snapped, waiting for a new one)

5. alright, here is the big doosey. I put the engine at TDC based on the '0 degree' mark after pulling off the Harmonic Balancer the notch was pointing up, however I never paid attention to "compression stroke"

• A) Did i botch this or is all well?

In the process of doing all the chains I foobar'ed some things. I'm assuming the offset of the front camshaft (before unscrewing anything) was "up" because the square part of OTC tool didn't sit all the way down (half above the top).

• B) Was it supposed to be on the bottom side?

Then the OTC timing tool broke on the rear camshaft and the camshaft snapped either clockwise or counterclockwise but I wasn't sure. Later I read that both camshafts should either be pointing "up" or "down." But the front one is now on the upper side (This one hasn't changed to my knowledge) and the rear is on the lower side now (but I never looked at the rear one until after my uh-oh moment). The OTC timing tool (square) fit lower on this one before I lost track of it. On both I am almost certain I put the tool's offset on the top so it would sit lower.

• C) I am so confused, Is there anyway to get the timing all straightened out?

 

[Sedition]

2. These were left over in the timechain kit. what do they go to?

These parts are in the 00m12 kit. The pencil looking spacer thing goes in the oil galley next the front tensioner. It comes with a new oil galley plug. The washer will need to go on the tensioner (like a washer on a bolt). There is a slight recess under the head of the tensioner that the washer will fit on to. Ensure that the tensioner washer is centered when installing or a massive oil leak will occur.

 

[Sedition]

Half twist?

TDC on the compression stroke looks like the picture below.

So if the slot in the rear of the camshafts is positioned like this one, with the "smaller semi circle half" pointing down towards the mating surface of the head and the slot level across the mating surface of the head. Thats your TDC on the compression stroke.

Vice grips and your ingenuity can work just as well as the timing kit.

 

[2000StreetRod]

oil pump driveshaft

The shaft you left out goes between the oil pump and the gear driven by the spiral gear on the jackshaft. On my engine there is a collar washer (circlip) in the middle to keep it in position. Your driveshaft appears to have a larger diameter section to keep it in place. If you start the engine without the oil pump driveshaft the engine will be destroyed in a few minutes due to no oil pressure. Remove the oil pan and the oil pump. Install the driveshaft into the oil pump and then install the two together as an assembly. Make sure both ends are engaged and seated before tightening the oil pump mounting bolts.

There is a spacer that goes between the rear of the jackshaft and the sprocket that you left out. It keeps the sprocket centered on the jackshaft.

Did you receive the engine assembly instructions that I sent you? Follow them carefully. All of the above is covered in them.

 

[bigredscowboy]

streetrod, i have since realized that your instructions are invaluable. Also realized that the oil driveshaft fell out the hole where the oil pump drive was taken out so I was able to insert it through the top without removing the pan (hope all is well with that).

jackshaft bolt spacer? looked through this thread and didn't see any pictures and haven't found one on the floor anywhere. don't see it in your picture (post 4: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2647644&postcount=4)

 

[2000StreetRod]

remove oil pump drive gear?

I just had another idea. I think the block cradle must be removed in order to remove the oil pump to insert the oil pump driveshaft. That is a lot of work to repeat.

There is a possibility that the driveshaft may be inserted after removing the oil pump drive gear. It is located under the plate shown in the photo below.

I've never had mine out. After removing the bolt that holds down the plate, unscrew the gear that meshes with the spiral gear on the rear of the jackshaft. Then see if you can insert the driveshaft thru the opening. I can't remember what the central part of the driveshaft rests against. If it is the oil pump then the shaft may drop all the way to the proper position. You will probably have to guide the driveshaft from below thru slots in the block cradle or it could just fall into the bottom of the cradle.

The above is just something that might work that you could try. The normal method is to insert the drivshaft into the oil pump and then install the oil pump.

 

[bigredscowboy]

There is a spacer that goes between the rear of the jackshaft and the sprocket that you left out. It keeps the sprocket centered on the jackshaft.

This is why you pay attention during disassembly:
Jackshaft spacer correct orientation:

Jackshaft spacer incorrect orientation and consequent damage (no wonder the darn thing was so hard to turn...)

Fortunately I have 2 (and in some cases 3) of everything so I swapped in the ranger oil gear and jackshaft spacer. Turns so easily now.