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Harmonic balancer
Take off the Ac / power steering pump and their bracket as a assembly and bungee it into the battery box pull the alternator and it's bracket to the harmonic balancer then the timing cover keep track of the Timing cover bolts location
Buy the Felpro timing cover gasket set includes everything and a nice front main seal no need to remove the water pump WATER WILL GET INTO THE OIL PAN SO REMOVE IT FIRST
I also removed my radiator to for way more room
 



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Harmonic balancer
Take off the Ac / power steering pump and their bracket as a assembly and bungee it into the battery box pull the alternator and it's bracket to the harmonic balancer then the timing cover keep track of the Timing cover bolts location
Buy the Felpro timing cover gasket set includes everything and a nice front main seal no need to remove the water pump WATER WILL GET INTO THE OIL PAN SO REMOVE IT FIRST
I also removed my radiator to for way more room
no way to get around it, even if it makes it harder? i'm fine with water pump etc, i just don't want to make a run ot to get a puller... do you have a link to one that worked for yours?
 






no way to get around it, even if it makes it harder? i'm fine with water pump etc, i just don't want to make a run ot to get a puller... do you have a link to one that worked for yours?
also, do i have to have any other specialty tools like the tool to lock the cam to do this job! thanks!
 






also, do i have to have any other specialty tools like the tool to lock the cam to do this job! thanks!
also, my side door trim (black) is kind of whitened... should i paint it and if so how long will it take, and are there any other methods?
 






If your gonna change just the jackshaft primary guide no special tools anything else you need the tools
As far as paint I think I masked off everything and then primed and painted be sure to use primer for pladtic
 






BTW... my harmonic balancer puller cost $13 at the auto parts store
Most puller kits don't come with long enough bolts so your gonna have to buy two m8 by 1.25 by 110mm bolts
Sounds like a ***** but it's easy
 






BTW... my harmonic balancer puller cost $13 at the auto parts store
Most puller kits don't come with long enough bolts so your gonna have to buy two m8 by 1.25 by 110mm bolts
Sounds like a ***** but it's easy
Ok! doesn't seem like too much since i have to go get a fan clutch puller anyways...
 






I went 230K on the original OE plug wires on our 2000 Mountaineer 5.0L. I decided to replace the wires along with the spark plugs, which were Autolite double platinum's with around 70k on them, when the engine developed multiple misfires. It turned out the spark plugs were the problem with one bank badly worn due to wasted-spark ignition system. The plug wires were apparently still okay, but I replaced them anyway.

I'm not saying that going 230K on the original plug wires is a good idea, just stating my experience. I'd just say 100,000 miles on the OE wires is very possible. IDK why the Autolite plugs (4 of them anyway) couldn't go the recommended 100K change interval. The 4 plugs on the other bank were still okay. Autolite makes Motorcraft spark plugs for Ford so I assume the quality should be comparable. Maybe not.

In a different story, the owner of my 2001 Explorer 5.0L had replaced the plug wires with new Motorcraft wires at some point in its then 174K life. However, the new wires were not installed properly and one shorted out due to it rubbing on something at 190K. I replaced the plugs (which had only around 20K on them) along with the plug wires. I took care to route the new wires correctly.

Motorcraft plug wires are excellent quality but are expensive. I bought Denso exact-fit replacement plug wire sets (for both vehicles) from RA and was quite happy with the quality and fit. Following the factory plug wire routing is a PITA but is worth the effort.
 






BTW... my harmonic balancer puller cost $13 at the auto parts store
Most puller kits don't come with long enough bolts so your gonna have to buy two m8 by 1.25 by 110mm bolts
Sounds like a ***** but it's easy
The puller is the easy part, the installer is where it counts. Some people are inclined to use the center bolt to install, instead of a dedicated tool. I would advise against, because: a) there is no bearing, so a lot of effort goes to overcome friction, and more importantly b) only a couple threads will be engaged at first, risking damage to the crankshaft.
 






The puller is the easy part, the installer is where it counts. Some people are inclined to use the center bolt to install, instead of a dedicated tool. I would advise against, because: a) there is no bearing, so a lot of effort goes to overcome friction, and more importantly b) only a couple threads will be engaged at first, risking damage to the crankshaft.
As someone who has stripped a crank out, I highly recommend avoiding that.
 






As someone who has stripped a crank out, I highly recommend avoiding that.
The puller is the easy part, the installer is where it counts. Some people are inclined to use the center bolt to install, instead of a dedicated tool. I would advise against, because: a) there is no bearing, so a lot of effort goes to overcome friction, and more importantly b) only a couple threads will be engaged at first, risking damage to the crankshaft.
I just heated up the harmonic balancer with a propane touch and slid it on works every time

I have used the old crank bolt to install as well with a little oil on the bolt head but I can push the crank on far by hand so thread engagement has never been a problem for me

But a LITTLE heat works so well
 






I just heated up the harmonic balancer with a propane touch and slid it on works every time

I have used the old crank bolt to install as well with a little oil on the bolt head but I can push the crank on far by hand so thread engagement has never been a problem for me

But a LITTLE heat works so well
We (I) had mixed up the hardware and were trying to roll the motor over with a breaker bar. Nurgled the threads up pretty good.
 






We (I) had mixed up the hardware and were trying to roll the motor over with a breaker bar. Nurgled the threads up pretty good.

one last thing... which vehicle is better off-road overall, the explorer or the ascent... the ascent is newer but the explorer IS getting new timing components this summer, and has 4wd hi/lo... i got the parts already... planned a trip with some friends for winter to go thru azusa cyn...
 






also, one last thing, how long do the piston rings last? i got it smogged today and they said that they were surprised there was no blowby...
 






Hundreds of thousands of miles IF you change your oil
 






Hundreds of thousands of miles IF you change your oil
AND keep a clean air filter. Piston rings should last the life of the rest of the engine. By the time you need rings, you’ll likely need bearings and valve train parts.
 






Changed my plugs and wires on my SOHC. I used Denso wires and NGK plugs previously. The wires were still in good shape. The NGK plugs were worn—gaps opened to 0.080-0.082. Truck was idling a little rough. 100k on both.

Put in Motorcraft wires and Motorcraft SP500 plugs. Idles real smooth now.
 






also, one last question, as long as everything goes as planned, will i have to recharge the AC system? based on @donalds message before, doesnt seem so but just confirming!
 






No. You can even pull the engine without evacuating/recharging the system. Just be careful moving everything out of the way. You’ll pull the rad for room...put a sheet of thin ply against the condenser—you’ll thank me later when something swings into it and it doesn’t release all the magic gas.
 



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@C420sailor good, i didnt want to mess with the ac system, too much work lol... also, knowing me, ill probably have to thank you later, will follow ur trick!
 






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