Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS

[IZwack]

Slave drivers!!

This is a preview of the intake manifold:

The intake runner ends are blunt for now but I will probably mold up some velocity stacks and just epoxy them on (molding ensures consistency between the bellmouths).

 

[dkchrist]

Congrats grad!

 

[IZwack]

Congrats grad!

Thanks dad! (rhymes)

Runners done:

Also had to modify the passenger's side valve cover cauz it had an air port sticking up about 2-inches (hooks up to the intake tube) and was getting in the way. Weld was ground down a bit to make it look factory (once the dirt and grime comes back).

How the runners sit on the engine:

 

[cybergasm]

Any idea how it gonna run with the (appear to be) Unequal length Toobs?

 

[IZwack]

Any idea how it gonna run with the (appear to be) Unequal length Toobs?

They're actually not too far in lengths from each other because the runners on the passenger's side protrude more into the plenum's volume when compared to the ones from the driver's side (image below). But also, having runners of different length spreads out any advantage(s) over a broader RPM range. Of course the downside of that is that the amplitude / magnitude of any advantages (from say a Helmholtz resonance) isnt as large since its distributed over a greater RPM range. So instead of for example, gaining 5 hp at 2500 RPM with equal runner lengths, on an intake with varying intake runner lengths, you may get two intake runners resonating at 2000 RPM giving you a 1.5 HP gain, then another runner resonating at 2400 RPM giving you a few more horsepower at that RPM range, and so on. But having said all that, I dont think it really matters since we have LO range and doubler to back it up.

 

[IZwack]

Since this thread has been about making things from scratch:
I finished making the 40" tire molds and casted a set of tires. Hoodie, the technocratic dog of doom, verified the results:

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

Okay, so really, what tires are those? I like them and am starting to look as I am down to about 50% trad left on my IROK's

 

[section525]

Those things are nature's viagra.

 

[tdavis]

Maxxis Creepy Crawlers?

 

[techieman33]

The planned tire will be a 39" to 40" -- hopefully the 40x13.50-17 Maxxis Creepies if I can save enough $$ . Yeah the MIG is a lot easier to manage than a stick and I'm still in the learning stage trying different weaves and seeing what happens when you change one setting like having a reeeeeally low line speed.

Heheh I'm glad to see you've chimed in zhanx! But your Toyota is in a different league altogether than these darn Explorers because of your more off-road friendly running gear.

I'm thinking Tom is right

 

[Willard]

Maxxis Trapador Comp Bias!

http://www.maxxis.com/AutomobileLight-Truck/Extreme-Off-Road/M8060-Trepador-Competition-Bias.aspx

 

[IZwack]

Plenum - made from 14-gauge alum, except for the part where the throttle body bolts to.

Plenum with a very dirty (and naughty) throttle body:

Plenum location with throttle body facing passenger (TB will be connected to the passenger's nostrils):

The intake will be a two-piece [male bikini] - what I just finished making (the plenum) will bolt onto the 1/4 aluminum plate to which the runners were welded to.

 

[SVO]

IAC???


Is this going to be remotely mounted???








Dr. SVO phd

 

[IZwack]

Is this going to be remotely mounted???

Not 100% sure yet, but I am leaning towards a remote one. The GM IAC design is pretty simple so it can probably be made from a small block of Delrin and bolted to the chassis somewhere.

IZwack - Masters of Science

 

[SVO]

If you go into the Mark VIII thread in the Ford section, that Kenne Bell blower set-up, has a remotely mounted one that I moved to behind the blower next to the firewall, not sure but maybe KB would sell you the block for use with the Ford IAC.

But I can understand if you want to make you own unique unit yourself.





Dr. SVO phd

 

[IZwack]

Thanks Professor - but I have Megasquirt set up for a stepper IAC motor whereas I think Ford uses a PWM signal.
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[IZwack]

So I wanted to convert the clutch slave to AN fitting instead of that finicky quick-disconnect design (I had to convert at some point in the line anyway cauz the clutch master uses AN). But first the drivetrain dudes had to come out:

The "adapter" I bought was Russell Performance's 640281:

Unfortunately, its too short (yeah its backwards - the AN side should be pointing out):

Cut and weld:

And finally the slave cylinder re-installed with 1-ft of AN-6 hose:

Putting the transmission back onto the Explorer took FOOOREVER - normally I can just man handle it from the cabin but not this time, I ended up using a set of ratchet straps to hoist it up.

BUt after that, it was onto the alternator bracket and the belt tensioner mount. The tensioner is for the 3.8L Ford Taurus (for my future reference: Advanced Auto Part: 89217)

And then started working on the shroud to isolate the muffler and radiator's exhausted air from the passengers:

 

[gmanpaint]

Your a heim junkie.:

 

[black91EB]

Cut and weld:

Holy little bitty weld bead batman! How did you hold the pieces in alignment? Pin through the middle?

 

[IZwack]

Your a heim junkie.:

I had to use them for something

Holy little bitty weld bead batman! How did you hold the pieces in alignment? Pin through the middle?

Its TIG - no filler needed since its just a butt weld (and its not really structural, as long as its leak-proof), hence the small weld bead. As for alignment, it was held on a vice (the two had the same OD because both were design to slide into the same hole), tacked in 3 places and then a complete weld all the way around.