Spark plug removal

[ratterrier]

Hi Folks,

I'm planning to change out my plugs on my '96 Explorer, and took a look under the hood to check the access. It seems pretty tight and a couple of the plugs look like you need to be a contortionist to get to. I'm wondering if there is a definite need to use a plug wire puller, as I've always done removal by hand on other vehicles, but the truck doesn't allow much wiggle room.

Thanks,

Richard

 

[section525]

V6, V8? The V8's are very easy if you go through the fender wells.

 

[ratterrier]

Hi,

It's a 6-cylinder. I've probably got enough universal joints and wobble extensions to get at the plugs (I hope), I'm more concerned with pulling off the boots without damaging the wires.

 

[churd69]

i was able to pull mine off without damaging them by hand. however the tool might be easier and safer. I wasn't trying to save my wires since I was replacing them, however they came out find by hand. hope this helps.

-rich

 

[gijoecam]

I was replacing the wires anyways when I did mine. I just grabbed them with a pair of pliers and twisted to break the seal between the rubber and the ceramic. Once that was done, they popped right off by hand.

For the back two passenger side plugs, remove the rubber flap and plastic fender well liner. It makes the job 1000% easier!!

-Joe

 

[ratterrier]

Thanks guys.

I'll be doing the job this Saturday, weather permitting. And I'll remove the rubber flap and wheel liner...thanks for that tip.

 

[Rhett]

I have never had success with the specialized plug wire boot remover tools. With a stubborn wire, I have used a pliers (very carefully) like Joe said. One time I did break off the ceramic on an old plug, but that didn't stop me from removing the plug.

 

[hal_94]

94 4.0L OHV Plug change--easy!

I just changed my plugs and wires, and with a little bit of rotating back and forth, I managed to get the wires off without any problem, essentially. Since I was replacing the wires, I figured it was more hassle than it was worth to try and use a plug puller--there is NOT a lot of room on mine for that. ( 4.0 OHV, 94 Exp)

Plus, I couldn't find one at the auto store when I was getting the stuff to do it.. and I'm a man, so I couldn't ask, now could I?

I'd definitely recommend getting a 5/8" SPARK PLUG socket--it has a plastic insert which will keep you from doing too much damage to the plugs (and is just the right size). With my 3/8" drive ratchet and a very short extension (3 inches max?) I got all the plugs out--no unviversal needed.

Also, on mine, I was able to get to pretty much all of them with no trouble--it's just a matter of figuring out which way to put the ratchet in.

On the passenger side, take out the airbox, and the front two plugs are as easy as the driver side. If you turn the wheels to the left, then you can easily get the last, back plug out by going in from the wheel well/going in from above. The hardest part is just getting the new plug in, since it's awfully dark back there!

Oh, and remember that the back plug angles back towards the firewall.



And just to be complete, I used Autolites double platinum with the duralast wires from autozone. Havet had much chance to drive it around yet, except to go get some gas--seems a bit peppier though.

 

[ratterrier]

Hi Hal_94,

Thanks for taking the time to add your experiences. Procrastinator that I am, I still haven't attempted the plugs...but I will get to them when other higher priority chores have been finished. Hopefully, it will be within the next couple of weeks. With the height of the engine compartment, and the difficulty seeing and getting access, I'm a little anxious.

 

[Topflightamp]

Changed the pass side today. Tried that wheel well removal, but didn’t have any luck getting it off.
So I tried the skirt only approach. Seems to give you some room, but not much. Anyway, don’t give
up if your just changing that back two on the pass side. They are knuckle busters though. A little
PB penetrating lube helped get them off along with that universal and a long extension for that center one.
That back one was hard, so I did it first. Used a stubby there along with that universal. I also put the rig
on jack stands one on the cross-member and one under that rocker arm coupling just for s & g.

The one on the cross-member was holding the box up okay. Those push pins are though, but not impossible to get off. Just keep at them. The first one toward the front pass side, I had to remove the
water/coolant tank out of the way, that gave me plenty of room from the top. Not sure if it would have
been just as easy from the bottom as it was already done. Good luck, and DON’T QUIT!