Spark wires different from eachother.

[xdviper]

I was going through the X again, clearing the MAF and IAC, and I decided to check the sparks, Looks like the the one circled in red, doesn't have the coil or metal thingy that the blue one has in the 3rd picture. Is that normal? When I pulled it out, I seen some green/blue liquid or gel in there also.... never heard of this or seen it. I had my Mechanic give it a tune up, in Oct 07, and he had installed new plugs and wires along with the other tune up parts. Normal or not?

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[Turdle]

Nope-not normal
And-your mechanic saw this which is why he shoved the wire in further, and smeared dielectric grease in, hoping to make a contact.

I'd go back and remind him of the mistake.

 

[xdviper]

Nope-not normal
And-your mechanic saw this which is why he shoved the wire in further, and smeared dielectric grease in, hoping to make a contact.

I'd go back and remind him of the mistake.

Ok, I'll be going into today to get an oil change and I'll show him that.

But even if I don't show it, is it even okay for me to drive around like that? The engine has been feeling like it was misfiring sometime when starting the cold engine after siting overnight. The RPMs been going up and down and then staying at 1500 and slowly decreasing as it got warmer.

 

[duke16]

Has the CEL not come on?

 

[xdviper]

Has the CEL not come on?

The CEL has been on, from before the tuneup due to the O2 sensors. I had him check it out today, and he gave me some bullshit about water getting in the wires.
But Tuesday, I'll have him put it up on the code reader, and see if there is anything going on there... I don't know how he ####ed up, and getting to blame himself for the wires is going to be a tough one. The engine works perfectly though, I don't see anything out of the blue, but come Tuesday, the codes will tell.

Is there anything else, such as Gas millage or performance lost from this Wire not having that metal contact?

 

[budwich]

me thinks that someone didn't want to replace the "fault set" with another set... so they "fixed" it

 

[ThePhoenix]

I'll bet it isnt the O2 sensors at all....

 

[xdviper]

Alright, it seems like it is a bigger problem than it looks like. I will try to get him to take a look at it again and see what going on with it.

So again, that spark wire that doesn't have the metal contact on it, it misfires that cylinder that it's connected too?, thus reducing the MPG.

 

[askingxforxit]

Alright, it seems like it is a bigger problem than it looks like. I will try to get him to take a look at it again and see what going on with it.

So again, that spark wire that doesn't have the metal contact on it, it misfires that cylinder that it's connected too?, thus reducing the MPG.

I would stop going to that mechanic seeing as he doesn't seem to know anything about explorers nor does he want to fix the problems. You should go to a different mechanic that knows what he's doing. This guy is screwing you as they tend to when someone seems to not know much about cars. You might even be able to fix this yourself and save a bunch of money. Almost anything you need to fix should be in this forum so long as you have some tools.

 

[xdviper]

Yes, it actually does seem like that. Whats this problem called, and someone point me in the right direction to fixing it myself? Thanks a lot.

He seems like he is screwing me over, last month, I had my front left Wheel Hub repaired for a total of $375, which was $275 for the hub and $100 for labor, a little too much.

Thanks everyone!

 

[JohnJ]

One theory:

So this green/blue gel then would be silicone grease (usually clear) with some oxidized copper in suspension.

Presumably the oxidized copper was present before your plugs and wires were replaced. At that time, the mechanic had decided that plugs and wires should eliminate your misfire without actually examining the vehicle properly. After selling you plugs and wires he saw the corrosion and decided to load it up with silicone grease (which prevents water intrusion) so that the corrosion would not progress and he wouldn't have to telephone you to explain why your bill just went up by the price of a coilpack.

Unfortunately, this mechanic didn't think (or didn't care) about how you'd react down the road when the problem isn't properly fixed. The corrosion is caused by a damaged coilpack housing which allowed for the above mentioned water intrusion. This imperfection in the coilpack also allows a path for high voltage to arc to ground causing your current misfire.

Obvious solution: Replace the coilpack.
Won't work because: the wire boot is already coated in dielectric grease with salt in solution. This creates a new path for arcing.

Possible solution:
Complain to the mechanic stating that the problem never went away.
Pro: Cost to you is only the vehicle downtime. Might get this fixed.
Con: May or may not get things fixed. Some hassle involved.

Alternate solution:
Replace the coilpack and blue ignition wire yourself. This should fix the problem but will cost you both time and money that really shouldn't be on you.

Another option:
Replace the coilpack yourself, using brakleen to clean the goopy wire boot before plugging it into the new pack; then ask your mechanic to warranty the wires. This is a compromise and might be a good way to go.

 

[xdviper]

JohnJ, I really appreciate the feedback,

Yes, I haven't time for the last few weeks, and couldn't go talk to the mechanic, but hopefully Tuesday I will.

So now, the coil pack is ####ed up, and he smeared the grease in there so it would at least not cause the misfire anymore, I get that part, even if the coil pack was damaged before, isn't there supposed to be copper on that wire?

I'll show him this, tell him what you told me. I have been messing around with the wires again today, and I took the wire out without the copper and the engine still acted and sounded the way it did when the plug was connected. Thank you guys for all your help. and for the wires, if I do go ahead and do it myself, Do they sell the wires separately or within packs?

Thank you

 

[JohnJ]

JohnJ, I really appreciate the feedback,

Yes, I haven't time for the last few weeks, and couldn't go talk to the mechanic, but hopefully Tuesday I will.

So now, the coil pack is ####ed up, and he smeared the grease in there so it would at least not cause the misfire anymore, I get that part, even if the coil pack was damaged before, isn't there supposed to be copper on that wire?

I'll show him this, tell him what you told me. I have been messing around with the wires again today, and I took the wire out without the copper and the engine still acted and sounded the way it did when the plug was connected. Thank you guys for all your help. and for the wires, if I do go ahead and do it myself, Do they sell the wires separately or within packs?

Thank you

Keep in mind that the scenario I laid out is only one possibility. Something else entirely may have happened.

Wires are usually sold in sets but can also be purchased separately.

 

[xdviper]

Keep in mind that the scenario I laid out is only one possibility. Something else entirely may have happened.

Wires are usually sold in sets but can also be purchased separately.

Thanks, but like you said earlier, it ca be another problem. There was no problem at all, except that blue thing on CYC1 spark wire is actually the spark wire iron coil, he sanded it down in front of me revealing the iron. It did conduct electricity by placing the wires next to the coil pack, you hear sparks pops, from all 6 wires. Thats ok, we hooked it up on the scanner and 02 Bank 1,Sensor1 is ####ed, along with Bank02,Sensor1, and Engine too lean. Therefore now I know that Engine slightly shaking on a cold start up is normal due, but idles fine after warming up. And also my misfires during idling.
A lot of things depend on the O2 sensors, one of the most important part of the engine, I will be getting them replaced soon.

He reset the computer and the CE light went away but came back due to the O2 sensors.

There's nothing wrong after all, but I will keep this thread in my favorites for future references.

 

[ThePhoenix]

it cam eback with an O2 sensor out of range...still I SAY ITS THE WIRES...but if you want to replace the sensors...go ahead. Its like replacing your thermostat at if you feel a draft and the heater kicks on....when all it could be is the door isnt closed

I am just sayin...

 

[xdviper]

it cam eback with an O2 sensor out of range...still I SAY ITS THE WIRES...but if you want to replace the sensors...go ahead. Its like replacing your thermostat at if you feel a draft and the heater kicks on....when all it could be is the door isnt closed

I am just sayin...

You've got a good point there, but I've heard all the wires make the spark pop sounds when he took them off, doesn't that mean all the wires are getting current through them, no?
He ran it down on the3 code reader/sensor computer and it only came up as Engine too lean along with the O2 sensors.