Spdrcer34 is going V8!....

[deamon3]

please take many pictures when your done

 

[Spdrcer34]

Oh, I do take pictures. I have about 14 gigs of photos that I have taken over the years, of JUST cars, and parts that I have worked on.

Search for some of my write-ups, and you'll see the detail that I went into when documenting my projects:

Modifying the stock 4.0L Throttle Body
Modifying the 5.0L MAF to work on the 4.0L
The M5OD Transmission Rebuild
Shaving the Doors
C-notching the Frame
Installing the Roll Pan

Ryan

 

[Spdrcer34]

Okay, there is a few inches of snow out there, and I decided to get some work done in the (heated) garage. I removed the brake booster, and clutch Slave assembly. I also removed EVERY LAST BIT of the wiring harness from the engine compartment. The only thing left in there is a couple 1/0 Wires from my stereo.



Next step is to sandblast the whole engine bay, then cut & weld as needed.

Ryan

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

I think I'm going to make a book, with 410's, Seth's, and this swap. Including all the pictures...

 

[410Fortune]

let me know when you do your book, I took pictures about every 8 minutes during my conversion LOL I have TONS that I never posted

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

let me know when you do your book, I took pictures about every 8 minutes during my conversion LOL I have TONS that I never posted

the library lady at school is going to hate me, we have a 50 dollar credit for printing, and it's 10 cents for color printings, lol. Not sure if I'm going to go three ring binder or perhaps like the haynes manuals are.

 

[Spdrcer34]

New Years Day....Day Off....

Got some more work done.

Today, I removed the rest of the engine bay wiring harness. I was able to remove it whole...not a single cut wire.

I also had to remove the E-brake, steering shaft, throttle cable, and hood release cable




Once that was done I left with clean inner fenders, and a clean firewall on the`97.



I was going to start cutting the 97 firewall apart, but I discovered the 4" cut-off wheels I bought from HarborFreight have the wrong size hole in them for my grinder.

I also got one of the dash mounts removed from the interior.



Ryan

 

[seth247]

Sweet.

 

[ghosttrain2]

Ryan,
Are you going to remove the lower dash mounts as well? I have done the same thing you are now doing. I drilled out the spot welds( won't do that again! ) My '94 xlt has a '97 dash bolted in. I am using the entire '97 interior, steering column , doors, and liftgate.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Yes, I am going to use all 3 the lower dash mounts. I may only use 2 of the 3 Uppers. I'm not sure yet.

I made more progress today.....Removal was a success. I went through 2 4" discs to cut the Upper Seam, and the Sides. I then had to put in a 3rd FRESH disc to cut the corners....then I used my Sawzall with a coarse WOOD blade to cut along the 'lip' that is on the bottom. I was amazed at how cleanly it still cut, and how FAST it was. The blade is still sharp! And it still cuts wood ( I have images of the Ginsu knife commercial, where they were cutting on the head of a hammer, then immediately start slicing up a tomato!..LOL)



I have started to clean up my cuts with my grinder, and I started to seperate the sandwich of 3 pieces of steel at the top Seam. Taking it back down to just 1 piece, so I can weld it in from behind (think INSIDE the cabin) and keep it as invisible as possible.

Ryan

 

[Spdrcer34]

I need to know if this is the part (the one with the Orange Backround) I need to insert into the block in place of the factory cooler, so I can attach the Canton 90* adapter (the one with the arrows pointing to the 1/2" NPT threads)....

Ryan

 

[seth247]

that looks alot like what we need.

Whered you find that?

 

[Spdrcer34]

eBay....The little threaded piece runs about 10.00 shipped from any of the 3 or 4 listed on there now. While the Canton piece is about 80-100, depending on where you buy it.

I am also currently shopping for shorty headers. I have GT40-P heads, so it's a LITTLE harder for me.

Ryan

 

[seth247]

Sweet. I was worried that it would be hard to find the part.

I will be trying summit "truck" headers.

They were the only ones I found that had a steep enough down angle on the drivers side header. The pipes look spread out enough to get a socket on the slark plug. And if not I'll just have to pull the headers for spark changes, oh well.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Matt, do you have P heads, or just the standard GT-40 heads?

Ryan

 

[seth247]

I have the p heads as well.

It's supposedly a 99 but I have reasons to doubt this.

 

[seth247]

I've been lookin at themustang forums and most of those guys have been able to use standard headers on p heads while using a cut-down socket and vice grips.

But it all really depends on header design.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

I wanna do a V8 swap... I feel left out...

 

[seth247]

do it...do it.

:inastarskyvoice:

 

[410Fortune]

when I put the canton adapter on my 97.5 GT-40p engine I used a Ford part for the older non Explorer 5.0L
The threads on the Explorer 5.0L oil cooler are metric and the threads on the Canton adapter and standard, for mounting the wonderful Motocraft FL-1a filter.
All I had to do was remove the factory part and thread the mustang part into the block

That Canton adapter is AWESOME, I wouldnt put anything else on the side of my block for a filter re-location...worth every penny

I use a 5/16 1/4" drive socket cut down in almost half (depth wise) and a 5/16" wrench to remove/install my TM headers... there are a few bolts that are just crazy to get at witout those tools... with the modded socket I can get 7 of 8 and the 8th I use the wrench

I just did the drivers side on my 96 yesterday! (copper gasket) LOL