Sport trac 5.0 plans

[danlong]

You seem to be correct. Here's the pin outs from the PCM connector:
Pin 58 (GY/BK) Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) +
Pin 68 (GY/BK) Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) +
Pin 84 (DG/WH) Turbine Shaft Speed sensor (TSS), Early production
Pin 84 (DB/YE) PCM - Output Shaft Speed Sensor (OSS), Late production

The member I mentioned who regeared and showed a change in the MPH-RPM correlation has a Job 1 truck (early model), so his speedo should be correct. I have a 2001 Job 2 truck, maybe I'll try pulling my RABS plug and see if my speedo still works just for kicks...

 

[rwenzing]

Thanks for looking that up. It helps to understand what Ford did.

In reality, the early 2001MY Sport Trac should have been a 2000 model since it came out in January or February 2000 and it is different in so many important ways from the later 2001MY Trac that began production after 7/24/00. I'm sure that the marketing people were the ones who lobbied the get the 2001 designation early to emphasize the "newness" of the design.

It's unfortunate that it was done this way, IMO. This is the kind of nonsense that drives service departments, parts guys and customers nuts.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The only good news in all this is that the earlier 2001's before 7/24/00 have a PATS system and a speedometer system that is almost identical to 99~2001 Explorer 5.0. This should make the early 2001 an ideal ST candidate for a 5.0 swap.

 

[danlong]

No problem, it helped me as well because if I manage to get to my swap, I know that I'll have to deal with the speedo issue as well.

 

[Richie18]

The info in this thread is great, i am also looking to begin a v8 swap for my
2003 4x4 Sport Trac. I've obviously figured out that a 5.0L is easiest to swap. It's been expressed here more than once that a donor explorer would be good, but is there anything stopping me from getting a new 5.0L from fordracingparts.com and using the current transmission in my Sport Trac, the 5R55E.

Unfortunately i lack a lot of knowledge on the complexity of a swap like this but if some of you are willing to put in some time to give info i am very interested.

Also looking for info on components that would be needed to keep the 4x4.

 

[brianjwilson]

I don't know if anyone makes an adapter for the 5.0L to the 55e, or if it would hold up. The problem is the wiring. The transmission is computer controlled, and so is the whole engine. Unless you swapped in a carbureted motor and a different tranny, it would be a nightmare to make it run.
That's why most people find a donor explorer. Remove the complete engine with all the wiring, computer, transmission and everything. Doing it any other way is asking for trouble, imo. Especially if you don't have a lot of background in doing something like that.
Keep a look out for wrecked/rolled Explorers with the 5.0L and try to get it for cheap. You can always rebuild the motor when it's pulled from the explorer.

 

[Richie18]

While i am not completely knowledgable on the subject i do have a partner who is an older school mechanic, very knowledgable with carburetored engines but it would be more of an adventure with all the computer controlled stuff, which is why i am trying to find as much info here as i can.

I've already found out that the 5R55E max capability is 550 ft-lbs
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1826654#post1826654

Apparently thats what the 55 stands for. What transmission does the 5.0L Explorer's come with anyway? And how comparable is it to my transmission? Better or worse? about equal? Are there any other alternative transmissions? EDIT: I see the 5.0L is using the 4R70W. I'm still looking for info on how it performs, any info is appreciated.

With the crate engine not being the most feasible option, my next question is
how solid is the 5.0L block?
There are no plans right now for more than 350hp but future projects may. Also would it be stupid to ask if its possible to get a new crate engine but use all the fuel injection and computer related parts from the Explorer?

Also it's a must to keep the 4 wheel drive, is there any info on the parts that would need to be swapped or bought or would all these parts come from the donor car?

If i do this project i want to do it right, i want the engine and tranny to be smooth and i would prefer new, thats why i keep persisting, of course if thats not the best option then rebuilt will have to do.

Thank you anyone for any information you may have regarding this, i appreciate the help.

 

[CDW6212R]

You will really need a donor vehicle to make the swap feasible. There are dozens, and more, of odd parts that will be required from the 96-01 Explorer trucks. If you went to piece things together, the cost will be double or more than what you think, in total.

You can start with a crate engine or other 302 long block. New engines cost a lot more than rebuilding a used 302. You need the 4R70W, and the entire drivetrain wiring harness, PCM, PATS module(or yours - programmed). The set of parts needed will not be too bad, as swap projects go. There is enough knowledge here from members to make the hardest part no big deal.

The 4WD parts of your truck will remain, that is the front and rear stuff. The transmission, transfer case, and driveshafts have to swap. You can make it AWD easily(stock Explorer 302 AWD), or do the BW4406 swap which others have done. That BW4406 would get you the manual shifting, or the same auto 4WD that you have. Regards,

 

[Richie18]

I greatly appreciate the info. Even though the cost of a new 302 would be great, it would be worth it to me, although rebuilt isn't out of the question. If i understand correctly it's perfectly feasible to start with a new 302 block and use any other necessary parts from a donar car.

I'd definitely be going for the BW4406 swap to keep 2 and 4 wheel drive.

What parts about the fuel injection would need to be kept, or can possibly be replaced for new?

How solid are the 4R70W tansmissions? Would it most likely need to be rebuilt?

 

[rwenzing]

While i am not completely knowledgable on the subject i do have a partner who is an older school mechanic, very knowledgable with carburetored engines but it would be more of an adventure with all the computer controlled stuff, which is why i am trying to find as much info here as i can.

I've already found out that the 5R55E max capability is 550 ft-lbs
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1826654#post1826654

Apparently thats what the 55 stands for. What transmission does the 5.0L Explorer's come with anyway? And how comparable is it to my transmission? Better or worse? about equal? Are there any other alternative transmissions? EDIT: I see the 5.0L is using the 4R70W. I'm still looking for info on how it performs, any info is appreciated.
:

The input torque capacity of the 4R70W is 700 lb-ft but remember that a torque converter generally multiplies engine torque by a factor of about 1.8~1.9. So, a stock 4R70W should actually be good for a bit over 350 lb-ft. from the engine. If you need more or just want to improve reliability, there are companies that offer upgrade parts for this transmission. One is Baumann Electronic Controls:

http://www.becontrols.com/

 

[Richie18]

Thanks for the info. My current tranny the 5r55e is a 5 speed. How much of difference is it going to be switching to 4r70w only being a 4 speed?

I am assuming i wouldn't have to replace my differentials, but with my current 4.0 SOHC and 4.10 rearend and 5 speed my cruising rpm is way above what i would consider comfortable, like 2600-2800 or so at 70-75, not sure exactly. When i was towing a pair of jetskies on a 5 hour roadtoap my rpm's were typically high enough it barely had to downshift for hills!

How will the 5.0L and the 4 speed perform with my current 4.10 differentials, i had been considered moving to a 3.73 since i was doing this swap, but would prefer not to..

Again, Thanks for the help guys.

Edit: Discovered the gear ratios for the 4R70W
The gear ratios are:
1st: 2.84 2nd: 1.55 3rd: 1.00 4th: 0.70 Rev: 2.23

and the 5R55E
1st: 2.47 2nd: 1.85 3rd: 1.47 4th: 1.00 5th: 0.75


but looks as though the last gear is higher in the 4R70W.

 

[rwenzing]

Thanks for the info. My current tranny the 5r55e is a 5 speed. How much of difference is it going to be switching to 4r70w only being a 4 speed?

I am assuming i wouldn't have to replace my differentials, but with my current 4.0 SOHC and 4.10 rearend and 5 speed my cruising rpm is way above what i would consider comfortable, like 2600-2800 or so at 70-75, not sure exactly. When i was towing a pair of jetskies on a 5 hour roadtoap my rpm's were typically high enough it barely had to downshift for hills!

How will the 5.0L and the 4 speed perform with my current 4.10 differentials, i had been considered moving to a 3.73 since i was doing this swap, but would prefer not to.

I have a 4R70W with 4.10's and BFG 31's. My RPM at 70 is about 2400. The engine could easily push 33's with the 4.10's or you could use a taller gear with 31's and it might help FE a little. Four gears is enough with a 302 - 4.0L Explorer automatics also got along fine with four gears for several years before the 5 speed was introduced.

 

[rwenzing]

The info in this thread is great, i am also looking to begin a v8 swap for my
2003 4x4 Sport Trac. I've obviously figured out that a 5.0L is easiest to swap. It's been expressed here more than once that a donor explorer would be good, but is there anything stopping me from getting a new 5.0L from fordracingparts.com and using the current transmission in my Sport Trac, the 5R55E.

The Explorer 5.0L was tailor made for the short, narrow engine bay in the 2nd gen 4-door which is very similar to your 03 Trac. The special Ex accessory drive, front cover, water pump and fan make the Ex 5.0 shorter front to rear than other 302's. Also, the oil pan is specially contoured to clear the crossmember and Ex front diff. The oil filter has a 90 degree adapter to point it forward to clear the crossmember too. Using the Ex 302 engine plates and isolators, it should bolt right into the Trac.

You can use most 302 blocks with the special Explorer parts listed above to make fitting it easy. However, the Explorer fuel injection uses a unique damper/pulley/toothwheel set up for 50 oz-in balance. Some 302-based crate engines, especailly strokers, require a 28.2 oz-in damper and that could be a headache if you want to use the Ex EFI.

Actually, the stock 99~2001 Explorer 302 isn't a half bad engine. It comes with GT40P heads, the intake manifold is a GT40 variant and the throttle body is 65mm. The stock exhaust manifolds are atrocious but those are easily swapped for Torque Monster headers.

From a fuel system and electrical point of view, the 99~2001 Ex 302 engine and transmission would be the most compatible with an 03 Trac but you would have to do some work on the PATS system and the speedometer input. These were discussed earlier in this thread.

 

[Richie18]

Regarding the tire size, i have no intention of using 30 in or above off road type tires, maybe something along the 20 or so level max, how would the 4.10 handle that?



Awesome, good to know that extra info about parts that are unique to the 99-2001 Explorer 302 that will make it fit in the engine bay. Regardless of condition i will most likely rebuild the engine and transmission, no stroker kit or anything though. To me it looks like most of the bigger issues have been resolved, in theory, and of course the already mentioned PATS system that needs to be changed.

I've already noticed more than a few common 4R70W transmission upgrades, are there a ones specifically that are recommended for smoother/better performance?

Other info that i'm begining to wonder about is something that you already mentioned, headers. exhaust, and suspension parts. What, if any, are some of the more common suspension upgrades, not including lift kits. Also are there any chrome, or stainless steel possibly, step bars for the explorers?

Thanks again for your time.

 

[rwenzing]

Regarding the tire size, i have no intention of using 30 in or above off road type tires, maybe something along the 20 or so level max, how would the 4.10 handle that?

I don't know what stock size tire your ST has but it is likely within the 28.9~30.5" range. My 31x10.50R15 BFGs are actually 30.7" diameter according to BFG's site. As stated before, the 5.0 engine will easily pull a taller gear than 4.10. To the best of my knowledge, all stock Explorer 5.0's came with either a 3.55 or 3.73 axle ratio, depending on options.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

All 5.0's came with 3.73's AWD or 2wd. 33's and 4.10s is just right I'd run at least a 32 with 4.10s or it will be running too many RPMs at highway speed.

 

[Richie18]

I don't know what stock size tire your ST has but it is likely within the 28.9~30.5" range. My 31x10.50R15 BFGs are actually 30.7" diameter according to BFG's site. As stated before, the 5.0 engine will easily pull a taller gear than 4.10. To the best of my knowledge, all stock Explorer 5.0's came with either a 3.55 or 3.73 axle ratio, depending on options.

Yes it was late and i was very mistaken in my thinking regarding the tire size, what i meant to say is i am most likely looking at some wheels in the 20 inch size. If i can i'm looking to get the new 2007 Sport Trac Adrenaline's wheels...

http://www.zercustoms.com/photos/20...lin/2008-Ford-Sport-Trac-Adrenalin-7.jpg.html

20 inch wheels with P255/50R20 Pirelli tires. No clue on the total diameter, i am guessing must be close to 33' or more, i'm not sure...

You guys got any clue?

Are there any recommendations for suspension pieces for improved ride/handling?

 

[CDW6212R]

If you do swap to the much heavier 20" wheels, do not go down in gear ratios, anything like 3.73:1 or lower ratios would be noticed in poorer fuel economy and performance. I have heavy 18's and I don't like the performance loss, the 30.5" tires gave me a 72.5 pound wheel/tire.

Keep the diameter down as much as possible with bigger wheels, the tire weight is most of the change. Those things easily get over 40 pounds each, and weight between sizes can be over 5 pounds. I lost about 5.5 pounds from dropping from a 265/60/18 to a 255/60/18 tire.

The 28 ounce balance issues can be worked out, but figure an additional $350 or so. I've just about worked out a balancer custom machined/modified to take an Explorer trigger wheel, and 94/95 Mustang pulleys. I have to have it for a 332 stroker I'm about to put together. It isn't going to be as cheap for the balancer as I had hoped. Other members wanted it for under driving the accessories, but it isn't worth this price for that.

BTW, the 255/50/20 tire would be about 30" tall, that would be a good size for the speedometer. Regards,

 

[danlong]

A 255/50-20 tire is only about 30" tall and is the perfect size for a slightly lowered Trac. I'm running a 275/45-20 which is right at the same diameter or slightly shorter, but the width causes some minor rubbing issues when lowered 2" or more. The Explorer's tires were 29" tall, so I think running a 4.10with a 30" tire would be a nice compromise between a performance increase and cruising RPM increase.

 

[Richie18]

Thanks for the info on the tires, i'm slightly disappointed in the fact that the 20" wheels would degrade performance that much, while i was no where near set on those wheels they looked great while not looking over the top.

Right now with my current drivetrain(SOHC V6, 5R55, 4.10) and stock wheels my cruising rpm is unacceptable to me, about 2800 rpm when at 75.
With this engine swap i was really hoping to get those rpm's down. Any solutions or will the rpm's give a noticeable drop i'm looking for?

I'm slightly confused with the info given by by the posters above, one mentions that going with a tire smaller the 33" will result in Higher highway rpm's, while the other, danlong mentions that going bigger than stock 30" or so size tire would result in increased rpm's at highway speeds? Anyone care to clarify my confusion?

 

[CDW6212R]

If you have the most common stock 30" tire size, then the rpm's would be much the same with the V8. The final trans OD ratio is the deciding factor, the rpm's would go down 1/25, or 70/75*current rpms. The diameter of the tires is simple math(30/32) to figure also, bigger tires would slow the rpm's down.

The extra weight of the wheels can be figured to be worth a few inches of tire diameter, meaning they would make the truck feel like it had 2-3 inch taller tires. That is besides the rpm's, that wouldn't change from the weight. The key to any wheels is to attempt to find light weight wheels. Generally all inexpensive larger wheels are very heavy. The very expensive forged wheels are relatively light weight. I bought $900 18's, they are heavy, if I could have bought a $2500 set, those might have been lighter. It is very hard to obtain accurate wheel weight specs of new wheels.

Stock wheels/tires will weigh under 55 pounds, try to keep that total down below 60 pounds if you can. If they end up being over say 70 pounds, you should not be surprised.