Starter won't engage

[Stormy663]

i have a 98 Explorer Limited Edition. It was working great until yesterday when it simply wouldn't start.

When the key is turned, there is a click, the lights dim and that's all. If i hold it for any length of time the doors lock and unlock.

Battery is at 100%. Replaced starter solenoid. Checked relay and fuse in under hood box. Al look good.

I'm at a loss. Suggestions?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Maybe the starter is defective or the battery cables might have corrosion.

 

[Stormy663]

I've checked both. Look okay.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you remove the starter to see if the gear throws out & spins? If so, then the flexplate might be worn down.

 

[Stormy663]

Yes I have. The action was nice and smooth. No binding.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Then it's either an issue with the gear on the end of the starter or a worn flexplate.

 

[Stormy663]

I am going to pull the starter again and test it with a spare battery that I have. If the solenoid engages the starter then the problem has to be between the ignition and the starter.

 

[toypaseo]

Check for corrosion where the battery cables go inside the actual battery terminal. I had buildup cause starting problems in the past.

 

[Stormy663]

Check for corrosion where the battery cables go inside the actual battery terminal. I had buildup cause starting problems in the past.

Inside the actual battery terminal??? Explain please,

 

[BrooklynBay]

This is what I had in mind in post number 2 of this thread. Remove the battery terminals, clean everything with a battery brush, then apply an antioxidant cream.

 

[Stormy663]

I do that regularly. The connection to the battery is not an issue.

 

[koda2000]

If the connection at the battery is good and the battery is good and all it's doing is clicking then it's likely a bad starter or bad battery cable.

How do you know that battery is good? Did you have it load tested?

Do you have any of those stupid repair terminals on your battery cables?

Are your battery cables lumpy looking?

Have you tried hitting the starter case with a hammer?

 

[Stormy663]

If the connection at the battery is good and the battery is good and all it's doing is clicking then it's likely a bad starter or bad battery cable.

How do you know that battery is good? Did you have it load tested?

Do you have any of those stupid repair terminals on your battery cables?

Are your battery cables lumpy looking?

Have you tried hitting the starter case with a hammer?

The battery is load tested. The terminals are on top. The cables look like they should, no lumps, no corrosion. I haven't hit the casing as the action was nice and smooth.

 

[koda2000]

The action of the so-called Bendix may be smooth, but that has nothing to do with the starter motor itself. The Bendix throws the starter gear into the flywheel's ring gear when the starter solenoid is energized, but if the starter motor doesn't spin all you hear is the click from the solenoid. When the starter solenoid is energized it also sends full battery power into the starter motor. If the starter doesn't spin the motor is bad or has a dead spot on it's armature. Sometimes the power feed wire from the solenoid to starter motor may corrode away.

I don't know what you mean by "the terminals are on top". I was asking whether your cable ends are the original steel ends or if they'd been replaced with lead repair terminals? The repair terminals and develop corrosion where the are bolted to the copper wire and they also tend to loosen up over time.

My guess is that your starter motor is bad, but you might as well investigate the other possibilities before purchasing an expensive new/reman starter motor.

 

[Turdle]

I might mention the braided conductor on the starter itself will sometimes fail and cause this issue. I once "repaired" one by removing the nut, take the connector off the lug, twist the braided connector 3 turns and replace the connector back on the stud. The "fix", as goofy as it sounds- worked for me.

 

[Stormy663]

I might mention the braided conductor on the starter itself will sometimes fail and cause this issue. I once "repaired" one by removing the nut, take the connector off the lug, twist the braided connector 3 turns and replace the connector back on the stud. The "fix", as goofy as it sounds- worked for me.

It looked okay but I will check it again.

 

[Turdle]

It looked okay but I will check it again.

Looks and works are 2 different meanings. Mine "looked" ok also but it wasn't "working". Things need to be touched and looked at.

also, do not discount the suggestion to clean the terminals, and look closely at the cable conductors. If they are turning brown it is no good.

Grease on the battery terminals will cause your issue. These trucks seem to require a perfectly clean battery terminal, and perfect connectors. Trust me on this.

I might add, I found the braid malfunction by accident, sort of. I had a helper turning the key while I wiggle tested the starter wires---

 

[Stormy663]

Looks and works are 2 different meanings. Mine "looked" ok also but it wasn't "working". Things need to be touched and looked at.

also, do not discount the suggestion to clean the terminals, and look closely at the cable conductors. If they are turning brown it is no good.

Grease on the battery terminals will cause your issue. These trucks seem to require a perfectly clean battery terminal, and perfect connectors. Trust me on this.

I might add, I found the braid malfunction by accident, sort of. I had a helper turning the key while I wiggle tested the starter wires---

When I say they looked okay, I meant that I have checked and cleaned them. The terminals and cable ends are clean and free of any corrosion, grease or any other foreign material. The ends are normally the first things that I check and clean as like you, I have been fooled many times before. The only thing I have not done so far is to actually remove the entire cable from the vehicle and check every inch. I am hoping that I won't have to do that.

 

[koda2000]

I might mention the braided conductor on the starter itself will sometimes fail and cause this issue. I once "repaired" one by removing the nut, take the connector off the lug, twist the braided connector 3 turns and replace the connector back on the stud. The "fix", as goofy as it sounds- worked for me.

LOL, I just edited my last post to include this possibility.

 

[toypaseo]

Inside the actual battery terminal??? Explain please,

I don't know what you mean by "the terminals are on top". I was asking whether your cable ends are the original steel ends or if they'd been replaced with lead repair terminals? The repair terminals and develop corrosion where the are bolted to the copper wire and they also tend to loosen up over time.

As @koda2000 mentioned, look for corrosion there. I had some cheepo repair terminals, and had corrosion between the actual cabling and the repair terminal. On mine though, I would turn the key, get a click, and everything would die like I unhooked the battery.