Steering - 1 ton GM tre's v.s. Heims

[turboexplorer]

I have seen people use the GM 1 ton tre's and others use the Heims. What are peoples experiences with either set up? Is there advantages either way? I am looking at what set up to run on my soon to be SAS swap.

 

[DB_1]

I have seen people use the GM 1 ton tre's and others use the Heims. What are peoples experiences with either set up? Is there advantages either way? I am looking at what set up to run on my soon to be SAS swap.

It's pretty much a preference thing IMO. As far as I know there are no strength differences if quality heat treated heims are used in comparison. I'm running heims on my steering and have had no issues with them. I live/wheel in a dry climate so rust isn't a concern. If lived in a wet/snowy area and wheeled where there was muddy terrain i'd opt to run the GM TRE's.

 

[turboexplorer]

Guess thats something to think about is rust issues? I will be in snow and when driving it in Salt Lake it will see road salt to. Also with GM tre's I would have to run a Y link for the steering as well. Which I may need to as I am running a 17" rim with 5" of backspacing.

 

[gmanpaint]

I am going with the GM TRE's.

Two reasons. Mainly the state inspections wont pass Heims here, and the wet terrain is abundant. There is an offset (P shaped) GM 1 ton TRE if you need the clearance.

 

[IZwack]

... heat treated heims.

x2 - There is a wide range of quality in heims and the low quality ones' ball will become loose over time.

 

[turboexplorer]

I am going with the GM TRE's.

Two reasons. Mainly the state inspections wont pass Heims here, and the wet terrain is abundant. There is an offset (P shaped) GM 1 ton TRE if you need the clearance.

I will glance at Utahs law if heims are legal. Also you doing the Y-Link Tre set up then? You going to drill the knuckles out to the 7/8" hole then put in the inserts or you going to buy the $90 reamer?

I will be in wet and road salt conditions every winter. So think tres may be the best longevity route.

But if I go with Heims high quality heat treated ones for sure, got it.

 

[IZwack]

Also with GM tre's I would have to run a Y link for the steering as well.

On a solid axle, try to stay away from the Y setup because its really meant for a TTB since the pivot points don't match and the "toe" configuration will change as the suspension cycles.

 

[Turdle]

http://www.liftlaws.com/utah_lift_laws.htm

You can use Rod ends.

 

[crazyflights]

I have used Rods Ends, but have recently ordered 1Ton TREs I think they will be quieter and last longer.

 

[gmanpaint]

Drilling them out, and using these for the TRE's.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER.html

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/7818TRE.html

 

[turboexplorer]

On a solid axle, try to stay away from the Y setup because its really meant for a TTB since the pivot points don't match and the "toe" configuration will change as the suspension cycles.

Even if the Y link is set up like this.

GM 1 Ton Tre Y-Link

 

[turboexplorer]

Drilling them out, and using these

Same way I was thinking.

And Thanks Turdle, glad to know I can use them! And glad to know the frame law but will be well under that.

 

[IZwack]

Even if the Y link is set up like this.

GM 1 Ton Tre Y-Link

I think that's mislabeled - that's a "T". A "Y" has one link from the pitman arm to the knuckle where as a "T" has a link from the pitman arm to the draglink (the draglink that connects both knuckles).

PBB page on steering configurations:
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Steering/Steering_Research/steeringresearch.htm

 

[turboexplorer]

I see. Thanks for the info! The T set up with the tres should be good for a solid axle correct? Its almost the same as the crossover. Make trac bar same length and angle, and bump steer usually isnt a problem at that point.

 

[TarHeel085]

i use a combination of both on my front end, heims on the drag link and TRE's on the tie rod itself. works very well.

 

[IZwack]

The T set up with the tres should be good for a solid axle correct?

Yep

 

[gmanpaint]

Are you going to be using this?

For the price of it, (if it works), I cant see going wrong with it. If it works, I am very interested in using it myself.

 

[Brian1]

If it works, I am very interested in using it myself.

It works, attached is a picture of the steering links I built for JTX a few years back on his 1st gen SAS using this style.

Now if you are using leaf springs for your SAS this is not the ideal setup since the drag link could make contact with the spring.

Order that kit from Ruffstuff before Jan 1st and you can get it for 15% off using code FESTIVUS

 

[gmanpaint]

It works, attached is a picture of the steering links I built for JTX a few years back on his 1st gen SAS using this style.

Now if you are using leaf springs for your SAS this is not the ideal setup since the drag link could make contact with the spring.

Order that kit from Ruffstuff before Jan 1st and you can get it for 15% off using code FESTIVUS

Sweet! Thanks for the pic & the code info Brian!

I am going EB 5.5" coils. Just trying to piece this all together just like everybody else

Is that trac bar a stock F-150 bar?

 

[RockRanger]

Are you going to be using this?

For the price of it, (if it works), I cant see going wrong with it. If it works, I am very interested in using it myself.

You may have to bore out the pitman arm to get the TRE to fit.