Steering Rack removal

[carlover]

Ok due to a little mishap this weekend i need to replace the steering rack. I have a 2wd, is the process pretty much the same as the 4wd threads ive found? It seems like it would be alot easier without the front diff in the way.

 

[410Fortune]

It is likely ALOT easier without the front center section...I have never done this on a 2wd but I am guessing it will be very similar to the 4x4 info you found, just easier (skip some steps)

lucky you!

 

[carlover]

Lol is it that bad of a job??

I have alot more than that to replace after my little crunch at truckhaven but thats gonna be the first step.

 

[IZwack]

I had a quick look at your steering rack yesterday and it doesnt look like its damaged. What was bent was the tie rods (both inner and outter I think).. but not the rack itself.

 

[carlover]

Yeah the rack itself looks fine. But it has 165k miles and it was very sloppy so i might as well replace it while the front end is pretty much already apart lol. By the way Izwack it was nice to meet you out there.

 

[410Fortune]

its a $350+ part so if its not broken I say leave it, the tie rods are expensive enough...
my 96 has 195K miles on it and the rack shows no signs of leaks or slop, the slop comes from the steering intermediate shaft on these trucks or the worn inner and outer tie rods...

Yes it is a big job to replace the steering rack on these trucks, in a 4x4 it as anyways...

 

[carlover]

Autozone had remanufactured ones with a lifetime warranty for like 120$. The rack has been shuddering with the 33's and has alot of slop so i was gonna be replacing it next month. But my front end is pretty much apart now so i might as well just replace it.

My shaft, and inners along with the outers were all fairly new, all replaced in march.

 

[ExploringNC]

I've done it twice on my 4x4 and it's not real difficult, it's a major pain to get the lines off tho. I paid $130 for a refurb rack from Advance, which includes the inner tie-rod.

 

[Stic-o]

It wasn't too bad when I took mine out...of corse I was in the middle of taking everything out for the sas:

 

[MountainRanger]

I slammed my truck into the center median and through that I broke the rack. Really only broke the inner and outer tie rod. So 38 bux later I was back on the road. I got quoted less than 100 for the rack from Napa.

 

[hunterdan]

Not completely on topic here, I was just doing some research and it looks like they have different part numbers for the 2 and 4 door versions. Is there really a difference? Maybe just in the ratios?

Dan

 

[Ford'sFORD]

My rack on my 2003 4x4 is almost gone completely out... It has become very dangerous to drive, but I have no choice but to drive it. I bought a new replacement but can't afford labor costs. Does anyone have details on how to do the job, or a link to a "how-to" thread? Thanks!

 

[fast_dave]

In short - It's easier on a 2wd than a 4wd AND there is two different versions - one for 2 door and one for 4 door and they are VEHICLE SPECIFIC.

I had a mechanic with a lift swap mine bad rack out and he said it was a big difference in labor with the 4wd vs a 2wd Explorer.

He said that you could do a 2wd in your driveway/garage no problem, but the 4wd was a whole 'nuther animal altogether...

After paying for the steering rack repair, as well as swapping out the power steering pump, I now run an inline power steering filter on the return line from the factory stock power steering fluid cooler. I replace the inline filter every 10,000 - 12,000 miles. You can unscrew the housing and see what is captured in it - and it's an eye opener. Now my power steering fluid is red and clear running the filter - not a "red/black" color that is typically seen when not running a filter.

Here's what I use as well as who I buy it from:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnefine-3...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

I also change my P/S fluid every 12,000 miles now - cheaper than that steering rack repair. I run Mobile 1 Synthetic AFT fluid or Redline Synthetic Power Steering fluid - interchanging between the two because of availability (or lack of). I use a Harbor Freight Vacuum Pump to get the air out of the system after draining and then refilling. I drain the system by just pulling one of the rubber lines on the factory stock P/S Fluid Cooler (lower line I believe). When done draining, I replace the P/S fluid with new P/S fluid. BUT - NOW there is air in the P/S System lines that must be taken out.

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html

Power Steering Pump Fitting for Vacuum Tool: I purchased a tapered rubber stopper from ace hardware and pushed a brass nipple that's "barbed" and has a hole through it, and pierce it through the center of the rubber stopper. The vacuum tool is hooked up to the exposed nipple via a rubber air line, and I place the tapered end of the rubber stopper in the P/S Pump. I pump up it up to around "10 inches" on the vacuum gauge, start my ex, and turn the wheel from side to side. As vacuum is pulling out air from the system, you will see the gauge lower in numerical value. Then I top off/add p/s fluid to the proper operating level, and I'm done ;-)