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Stock Aux Lamp Problem

RaistliN

Member
Joined
September 8, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Little River Gloucester, New-Brunswick
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLT AWD V8
Hi all,

I know there HAS to be a thread somewhere on the forum in regards to my problem, but I spent the last couple hours looking and searching. I have found quite a few posts but none that would actually help me out.. Here goes:

2000XLT - V8-AWD

My aux. lamps don't work anymore. They were until last night on my way back from work. So of course I started doing the basic trouble shooting, such as checking fuses, switch is on? yes, checked bulbs? Good. Now, I know of two fuse boxes, the one on the side on drivers side, and the one under the hood next to be brake booster. According to the users manual, all fuses are OK. When I turn my lights on, my switch will light on telling me the lights are on, but they aren't, which I'm suspecting a burnt relay.

So that's what my problem is: Where is that damned relay? After reading a whole bunch of stuff on here, I learned that there's a relay box under the dash next to the gas pedal, but according to the descriptions I found with that info, the aux. lamp relay isn't located there. . .

I'm running out of ideas, anyone can help me? Someone wrote on here there was another fuse box under the batteri? I can't see it on my X, perhaps I have to totally remove the batteri? I also noticed a narrow plastic box where a bunch of wires are going into under the airfilter box area, very narrow between the engine and the frame almost, would that be where my holygrail is?

All help is much appreciated!

Luc
 



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No one knows the location of the aux. lamps is?
 






IIRC there's also a relay box located in the front passengers side of the engine compartment. It's kind of below the intake. I know the relays for the front and rear windshield washers are in there. Not sure about the aux lights though.
 






2KExplorerSport is right. See this thread around post #30 for information about that relay box. Searching for "fog light relay" will get you better results.
 






So this confirms what I figured that little box was for. Wanted to make sure before I start fitting my hands under there!

This should help me resolve my little aux light issue! Thank you very much to the both of you!
 






You're welcome. I've noticed that the wires leading into that box aren't very well protected, but then again neither are most of them. Which surprised me considering that's where a lot of fluids are added and can spill down. I wrapped them with electrical tape to improve the situation a little. Not necessary but I was there doing other electrical work anyway.
 






I agree and followed your example and taped them up myself, and to confirm I indeed had a stuck relay. After a few little hits with the back of the screw driver, it clicked and voila, lights were on!
 






Haha glad to hear it. Go ahead and replace it with a relay that has the same electrical specifications. They should be listed on the relay and it's a part you can get anywhere. Eventually no amount of smacking will help.
 






Not to sound stupid, but how do you test a relay?
 






Well I'm sure there are better ways but here's what I do:

1. Test the resistance across the relay coil (Pin 85 & Pin 86). It should be around 70-90 Ohms IIRC. If it reads out of range you have an open circuit and if it reads a very low resistance the coil probably has a short in it.

2. Hook up a small battery, I have two 1.5 V AA's in series I use, across Pin 85 & Pin 86 and you should hear the relay click as it is energized. It will click again when you remove the battery and it de-energizes.

3. While the relay is not energized measure continuity across Pin 30 & Pin 87. It should read as an open circuit on a Normally open (NO) relay and closed on a Normally closed (NC) relay. Energize the relay and measure continuity across Pin 30 & Pin 87 again. The continuity should be opposite from what it was in the de-energized state.

If all of these things check out the relay is probably good, and if they don't it's probably bad. The quicker way is to swap in a relay that is known to be good and see if it fixes the problem.
 






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