Stock Tow Hitch, Anybody use it?

[Bottomlesspit]

Thanks Blichy. Any help figuring this out would be most appreciated. I figure I can go to Ford and try and order just the connector, but I bet it will cost as much as a whole hitch would that includes the pigtail. I am always amazed at how they do that...claim it would cost more to just have the individual part, so you end up having to buy 1/2 the vehicle to get one special bolt!
Thanks for any look'in you guys can do.
Ken

 

[Bottomlesspit]

Thanks to the writeup by trayson I was able to get my hitch swapped out without a hitch! (sorry, I couldn't resist). The whole job took about 30 minutes. Now I just have that large hole to fill up. I guess I will stop by Ford and see what they have that I can afford. The aftermarket adapter just doesn't fit right in the hole. Worse comes to worse I can modify somehow and force it to work.
Are you all sure none of you has a class III hitch with that large hole just to the left of the drawbar? It looks kinda silly right now.
Anyway, the swap is easy for those thinking about a junkyard or Ebay swap.
Ken

 

[blichy]

Thanks to the writeup by trayson I was able to get my hitch swapped out without a hitch! (sorry, I couldn't resist). The whole job took about 30 minutes. Now I just have that large hole to fill up. I guess I will stop by Ford and see what they have that I can afford. The aftermarket adapter just doesn't fit right in the hole. Worse comes to worse I can modify somehow and force it to work.
Are you all sure none of you has a class III hitch with that large hole just to the left of the drawbar? It looks kinda silly right now.
Anyway, the swap is easy for those thinking about a junkyard or Ebay swap.
Ken

Hey Ken, sorry for not getting back to you sooner like I intended. The 7-pin connector attaches to a bracket. This bracket is attached to the hitch bar by 1 bolt from the underside (the bracket shouldn't be more than $10-15). All of the wring is led through the hitch bar to keep things clean.

Hope this helps.

 

[DUVAGA]

My first post with you folks, for what it's worth...

I have an '01 Explorer Limited, 5.0L with a "Tow Package" according to the original window sticker. It only has the stock bumper on that year, no reciever. Today I took it to the dealership to have a class III installed to tow my tent trailer. The parts/sales guys had told me the vehicle was rated to tow 5500 lbs.
Then the service manager comes out and tells me the bumper is rated for 3500 lbs, the rear axle rated for only 3600 lbs, so there's no reason to upgrade unless I'm going to tow heavier than Ford's recommendations. He showed me a several page printout generated from my VIN # listing every rating possible, with the rear axle rating circled. They recommended I not tow anything over 3000 lbs! Why the hell would they sell me a tow package then?

 

[Bottomlesspit]

yep, that cleared it up, thank blichy!
I went and ordered the 7 pin adapter and bracket assymbly today. That should complete my swap.
Duvaga,
welcome to the forums. Great place to get info and share your experiences with us. Seems the 05 forums is kind of slow these days. Before the split up of years there seemed to be a lot more posts for everybody. Oh well, I guess if you search long enough here you can find enough info to keep you busy, huh?
Your encounter with the Ford dealer seems strange. For a lot of us, the reason we change to the class III is because almost anything out there to tow has the 2" class III tow bars. I can't think of anything I've seen that uses that tiny class II bar?!?!
You tow rating will obviously depend on a lot of different things. Your rear axle code is a big one. 3.55 or 3.73 ratio? The bumper doesn't have any bearing at all on it. The hitch connects to the frame. Do you have a hitch on there at all?
I would get the class III no matter what. You can tow a tent trailer without any trouble...unless it's the size of a hotel room! I find it hard to believe that they would insist that 3,000 lbs is your max. Maybe on the bumper itself?
Your 5.0 can definitely haul more than that. You should at least be able to haul 3,500 lbs.
Hopefull we can get some towing experts on here and help you figure it all out. Something doesn't fit ?
Ken

 

[Bottomlesspit]

Guys,
This Class III hitch ordeal has been nothing but trouble and headaches for me. I'm about ready to just go out there and yank it off and take whatever loss I have to.
I finally got the expensive FORD 7 pin plug and bracket assymbly in. Looks real good. I checked under the hitch and sure enough, there's 1 hole just like Blichy said. Of course the plug/bracket stuff didn't include any hardware. I cannot find anything that will mount that bracket. Inside that 1 hole there is probably less than 1/4 inch between the hole and the bottom of the tube for the plug. Seems nobody knows how it all is put together. I could see a bolt holding it on, but what does it screw into? Maybe a "U" clip nut, but I'm not sure one could fit because of the clearance. I guess I could try and get someone to weld the bracket on? I can imagine how that might look Ford couldn't tell me...and their computer diagrams showed nothing to help.
If that's not enough, now I can't find the mating plug that fits into the one mounted in the hitch tube. Junkyards don't have any.

Seems I'm back to the Hoppy brand one I bought at Auto Zone. Problem with that one is it doesn't really fit the tube in the hitch. No real place to actually screw it down.
I wish I had just left the Class II on there.
If any of you have suggestions I'm all open ears. I would love to know what that one rotten bolt threads into on the bracket. OK, I'm done venting. Thanks for all the previous help.
If anyone is thinking about getting a class III hitch...make sure you get the WHOLE thing...hitch, wiring, brackets, hardware...I think a complete set from a junkyard is definitely the ticket.
Ken

 

[Bomber166]

Have anyone of you tryed to rent a trailer from uhual, their website says they wont rent to anyone pulling w/ an explorer, but has anyone actually tried. I'm sure some smaller people wouldnt care...

 

[trayson]

Guys,
This Class III hitch ordeal has been nothing but trouble and headaches for me. I'm about ready to just go out there and yank it off and take whatever loss I have to.
I finally got the expensive FORD 7 pin plug and bracket assymbly in. Looks real good. I checked under the hitch and sure enough, there's 1 hole just like Blichy said. Of course the plug/bracket stuff didn't include any hardware. I cannot find anything that will mount that bracket. Inside that 1 hole there is probably less than 1/4 inch between the hole and the bottom of the tube for the plug. Seems nobody knows how it all is put together. I could see a bolt holding it on, but what does it screw into? Maybe a "U" clip nut, but I'm not sure one could fit because of the clearance. I guess I could try and get someone to weld the bracket on? I can imagine how that might look Ford couldn't tell me...and their computer diagrams showed nothing to help.
If that's not enough, now I can't find the mating plug that fits into the one mounted in the hitch tube. Junkyards don't have any.

Seems I'm back to the Hoppy brand one I bought at Auto Zone. Problem with that one is it doesn't really fit the tube in the hitch. No real place to actually screw it down.
I wish I had just left the Class II on there.
If any of you have suggestions I'm all open ears. I would love to know what that one rotten bolt threads into on the bracket. OK, I'm done venting. Thanks for all the previous help.
If anyone is thinking about getting a class III hitch...make sure you get the WHOLE thing...hitch, wiring, brackets, hardware...I think a complete set from a junkyard is definitely the ticket.
Ken

Okay, I felt sorry for you.

I just went out and looked under my x. The factory plug is mounted to an "L" bracket like mentioned earlier.

Okay the bolt that attaches the "L" bracket to the underside of the hitch has a head that takes a 1/2" socket. The shaft of the bolt is about 1/2 to 3/4" long. The bolt is probably 1/4" in diameter and is a SELF TAPPING bolt. there's a notch in the end of the bolt to cut into the hitch.

So, you need to drill a hole and use a bolt that will cut its own threads or something like that.

I bet you that a bolt like that will cost you a quarter or two. You are 99% there.

No funny little clips, etc.

Here are a couple of pictures (with my camera phone because I'm lazy) that are taken with me laying down on the ground looking up at the hitch plug from below.

By the way, there's a hole that's covered by the bracket. The hole is unused. See below:

 

[trayson]

Have anyone of you tryed to rent a trailer from uhual, their website says they wont rent to anyone pulling w/ an explorer, but has anyone actually tried. I'm sure some smaller people wouldnt care...

That doesn't make any sense. I did the form and it said that the explorer wasn't approved to tow, but I did the same form and a Lincoln Aviator V8 is allowed to tow one of their trailers.

Also, it allowed a Mercury Mountainer V8.

As we ALL know, these are all the same chassis. U-haul doesn't know what they're talking about. I'd just go into their location and see if they rent to you or not. Either that, or just make the reservation as a Merc. Mountaineer or a Lincoln Aviator.

 

[Cdaddy78]

Have anyone of you tryed to rent a trailer from uhual, their website says they wont rent to anyone pulling w/ an explorer, but has anyone actually tried. I'm sure some smaller people wouldnt care...

Yes, this is true, Since the whole firestone thing, Uhaul has refused to rent trailers to Ford Explorers, and yes, if you have a Mercury Mountaineer, or Lincoln Aviator or even a Mazda Navjo they will rent to you, even if they are the same truck. Some places might not care, but policy dictates they not rent to an Explorer. Do we all agree it is stupid: absolutely. I think that Uhaul was somehow involved in the Firestone thing legally, and as a result they ended up making their policy exclude Explorers on their renting policy.

 

[Bottomlesspit]

trayson,
Man, my hat is off to you. You are a true gentleman and one kind Explorer brother to go to that trouble of getting the info I needed. Thank you very much. You have made me feel a bit better about this hitch ordeal.
I am amazed that only a single self-tapping screw is used to hold that bracket in place!?! I would never have dreamed that. Yeah, I saw that 2nd hole under there and wondered about that one too! Matter of fact, that hole is what led me to believe there would be a U clip that would slide into it and snap the nut into the used hole, basically sandwiching the 2 holes if that makes sense.
Now I will be going on the hunt for this special little self-tapping screw. That is a pretty short screw! Fat and short sucker!!!
The last hurdle is going to be sourcing the mating plug that fits the hitch recepticle. I have a feeling this part is going to be way worse to figure out. At least you have given me hope again!!!!!!
Thanks again trayson, I hope I can repay you someday with likewise helpful info.
Ken

 

[hckynut]

Class 2 To Class 3 Swap Wiring For brakes

Hello all,

I had the chance to swap ouut my class2 for a class3 from a buddy who had bought his explorer with the towing package, but never uses it. The swap was fairly easy, and yes you make room for the hitch to clear the bumber. We did not totally remove the bumbper, but we rmoved the screws in the tail lights and pulled the clips along the top of the bumper out so we could just lift it up enough to clear the hitch comming out. Since my explorer did not come with the trailer tow package, do I still have all the necessary plugs and wires installed from the factory to do a plug and play electric brake controller add-on. If anybody knows, the would be a great help


Thanks in advance guys.
John

 

[Bottomlesspit]

John,
I don't know the whole answer to your question, but here is one thing I did find out during my swap.
I was able to buy a used trailer wire harness that had the proper 7 pin connector. I believe the harness came off of a F-150. I installed my class III and bought a Ford stock 7 pin plug to fit into the hitch.
I cut off the plug from that harness that fit into the back of the hitch plug. I decided to cut off my stock 4 pin plug and then solder my F-150 plug in it's place. When I unwrapped some of the stock 4 pin wiring tape, low and behold, buried inside was nothing other than a blue brake wire, folded over on itself. Seems they have the brake wire, just didn't need it for the 4 wire plug. So...the brake wire is in there. That leads me to think that you should be able to find the under dash wire too?!
I ended up with a nice, stock looking 7 wire plug on my class III. I only soldered up 5 of the wires. There are still 2 that I wrapped up...just like the blue brake one was, and hid back inside the wraps. I guess they are for aux lights, etc for a camper or something?
I am quite pleased with my project now. Lot's of compliments on my work. My cutting and splicing was all done so I didn't have to use any adapters under the bumper...it's now all one piece. Just substituted the 7 pin plug in place of the 4 pin.
All you have to do is find another Ford vehicle with the correct plug.
Good luck and please post your findings.
Ken

 

[Michael Cox]

I use mine all the time!

I have one of those little Home Depot $600 trailers and haul 2 yards of mulch or a yard of sand or top soil with it. That is about all the trailer can handle so the hitch isn't a big concern. From carrying riding lawnmowers to what ever it is fun to be able to haul stuff and not feel I need a pickup.

 

[25Horseplay]

My 03 came with the class 3 hitch. I tow a 27ft boat without any problems. The boat and trailer together are about 5700 lb's without gas and supplies. I was impressed with how well it tow's.

 

[camaro_guy_z28]

Can someone show a picture of a class 2 and a class 3 hitch receiver so i know what i have. I believe i have a class 3, it also has the plug for lighting. I am new to this whole hitch and towing stuff. I just bought a 2002 explorer xlt. Thanks

 

[fromme]

Measure it. The class 3 will have a 2" opening, the class 2 will have 1 1/4" opening. BTW, I use mine all the time to tow my CJ and a 16' car hauler. I have to use a weight distribution hitch to keep it from sagging, but it tows very well.

 

[Homerexplorer]

My first post with you folks, for what it's worth...

I have an '01 Explorer Limited, 5.0L with a "Tow Package" according to the original window sticker. It only has the stock bumper on that year, no reciever. Today I took it to the dealership to have a class III installed to tow my tent trailer. The parts/sales guys had told me the vehicle was rated to tow 5500 lbs.
Then the service manager comes out and tells me the bumper is rated for 3500 lbs, the rear axle rated for only 3600 lbs, so there's no reason to upgrade unless I'm going to tow heavier than Ford's recommendations. He showed me a several page printout generated from my VIN # listing every rating possible, with the rear axle rating circled. They recommended I not tow anything over 3000 lbs! Why the hell would they sell me a tow package then?

It sounds like the service manager doesn't understand the difference between "towing" 3600 lbs and placing 3600 lbs on your axle. When you tow a trailer you typically load the tongue with 8-10% of the trailer weight. That means that even if you were towing 5500 lbs, the additional load on the axle would be 550 lbs (10%). Assuming that your X weighs 4600 lbs, 1/2 of that is on each axle, you would only be loading your axle with 2850 lbs - still nowhere near the axle limit of 3600 lbs. Now, if you were going to ride around with the loaded trailer on your roof rack, he would probably have a valid concern - but you would have bigger issues then. He has to take the information in context. The bumper rating of 3500 lbs is assuming a 10% load (350 lbs), not a lump sum 3500 lbs on the bumper itself.

So with that said, you should be all set to get the class III and tow up to 5500 lbs of trailer weight. As a side note, I wouldn't use the bumper for anything but light trailering.

As far as Uhaul goes, they wouldn't rent anything in tow or even install a hitch on my Explorer.

 

[DUVAGA]

I agree with all of that logic, homerexplorer. So I went against the advise of the Ford dealer and bought a class 3 from U-haul, installed it myself and then...

Loaded up my 2300 lb tent trailer with probably another 500 lbs in luggage, etc in the cargo area and inside the trailer. As soon as I hit 65 mph, trailer started whipping on me. So, I thought "Too much tongue wieght" and rearrranged some stuff, no help. Next I Flipped over my 1" drop receiver to make it a 3/4 rise, no help. I then bought a 3 1/2 inch rise, no help. I finally put the ball back on my bumper, tows perfectly no matter how I load it. Only thing I can figure is that the extra extension of the receiver was causing just enough leverage to put me over the edge. Any ideas? Otherwise, I guess my Class 3 hitch is just going to be a support brace to keep my bumper from bending down. Worst thing is the wife saying "You should have listened to the Ford guy!"

 

[Homerexplorer]

There are numerous things that can cause sway. Some trailers are worse than others and, yes, increasing the distance between the hitch point and tow vehicle axle can increase the likelihood of sway. Proper tongue weight (not enough) is usually the biggest reason, but not the only one. Another option would be to get a friction type sway control. But if the bumper works, I guess you're set for now

The Explorer is more than capable of towing it, especially with the 5.0l. I tow a 4400 lb boat/trailer with my 4.0l SOHC without a problem. The circumstances turned out that the bumper tows better for you, not that the Ford guy was correct. Good luck.



friction sway control