Stuck fan clutch nut

[jtre]

Are you sure the T-stat housing is cracked? It's very common to have a leak from the housing due to the T-stat slipping down as it's installed. If the T-stat slips down, it keeps the housing from contacting the intake, leaving a big gap to leak. The trick to putting that on is to use RTV on the housing side of the T-stat, to make it stay, and let it set up a little, say a good 15 minutes. Put fresh RTV on the intake side just before attaching the assembly.

it is in 2 pieces, so yes (im talking about the part with the 90 elbow that the upper rad hose connects to) mine is 90 degrees but can i replace it with a 45 degree one?

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh well, they are tough but I guess you killed it. I doubt a 45* version would work, the hose is wildly shaped and might be pushed down into the alternator area too much. But you could test fit it if you have one. The hose is the only worry there.

 

[jtre]

yeah didn't fit. looks like I gotta drive quite a distance to get the part today, (or bring some KY to the dealer lol)

 

[CDW6212R]

The 302 Explorers are very common still, any 96-01 part will be the same. Other Fords used it too for sure, but I don't know which ones. Finding it is the hard part, thus the dealer choice if you have to.

 

[jtre]

Came across a Dorman 902-1003, seems to fit great (waiting for a ride to the store to get a bolt but the holes line up), its for a v8 302 Bronco late 80s i think. Hopeully thisll work. Better than 173 bucks at the dealer for sure

 

[CDW6212R]

Good find, the 80's had tons of 302's so that might be the same one for all of those.
Here's another one, Four Seasons 84884, $12 from Amazon Prime; https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KEDCMPG1TCVRSP5ME3HB
Amazon also show the Motorcraft piece at $94, which is still a lot.

Note the aftermarket pieces often have a threaded plug in them. If so, take that out and reseal it, some are shipped without any sealant(would leak immediately and you have to R&R it to get at the plug).

 

[jtre]

Good news, no leak when sitting (which it was leaking last time). BUT, still wont start. Replaced the starter, no indication of an anti theft issue, battery is good, the solenoid (drivers side right under the hood) clicks and I got 12 volts there. To check the connection at the starter, would I be looking for 12 volts constant at the batt. positive post and 12 when the key is turned at the signal post? I am assuming I made a poor connection at the starter, but Ill try cleaning the solenoid posts first. Is it still possible that it is the solenoid?

 

[CDW6212R]

It'll most likely be the main battery cables or connections. Clean the battery terminals first, those are the easiest to check and R&R. If the battery voltage reads over 12v it should try to turn the engine. If it still just clicks, the cables themselves may be corroded internally, the wires coated and not conducting electricity.

 

[jtre]

you mean the main batt terminals on the solenoid?

 

[jtre]

Got it started, made a bad connection to the starter. When I started it for the first time (it had been sitting without oil in the pan for at least a week, then oil in the pan for a couple of days before I started it today). it had a check gauge light and no oil pressure. Immediately turned it off and realized the dipstick was not all the way in. Checked the oil and it was 3/4 between min and max so it has oil (i am assuming maybe some got splattered when I started it up with the dipstick loose, since no oil drips are visible on the ground) Ran it again for maybe 10-15 sec with the same result. It sounds fine and runs like it usually does, should I try running it (after topping off the oil to max) for longer? Have to bleed the air from the cooling system anyway.

 

[CDW6212R]

Find the fuel pump relay, and pull that so you can crank the engine until it shows oil pressure. It should only take a couple of seconds, so it might be the oil pressure sensor, or the oil pump etc. Check the wire to the sensor, be sure it's attached there. No other wires have been disturbed have they?

 

[jtre]

Find the fuel pump relay, and pull that so you can crank the engine until it shows oil pressure. It should only take a couple of seconds, so it might be the oil pressure sensor, or the oil pump etc. Check the wire to the sensor, be sure it's attached there. No other wires have been disturbed have they?

there was a random green/white wire hanging in my engine bay. possibly disturbed when I removed my PS pump. I would think if I actually had no oil pressure, it would sound awful...i tested the wire and I am getting 5 volts in Run, and it appears that the connector on the pressure switch (behind the timing cover drivers side near the oil filter right?) has no wire on it

 

[CDW6212R]

That's probably the cause there.

FYI, is your oil pressure sensor very small, or else about 2x2" round? The early 95/96 models used the big sensor, and those produce an actual pressure signal, varying and the gauge varies. The later trucks from 1998 at the latest have a small sensor(maybe 1x1.5"), and those are just an ON/OFF signal, the gauge will show nothing or some random level.

 

[jtre]

it can be seen (covered in coolant) in this pic

 

[jtre]

Looks like the sensor, the random green wire makes the pressure gauge to to half when grounded. now to figure out how to put the sensor back together

 

[CDW6212R]

They are about $25 new from Rock Auto I think. I got one last year to fix another leak. I had lots of oil sources when I got my truck, that sensor was the last thing I did. I still have a little from the front seal, but I'm very happy the rear seal doesn't leak.

I think you'd do best to fix the wiring/connector there and replace the sensor.

 

[Lazerskull]