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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Parts are ordered to install the lightning maf and intake air temp sensor. next things is to purchase the injectors and fuel pump. I want to do the temp sensor and injectors at the same time since Ill have to take off the supercharger to do both. Still need to find out which ones will work. Also found a guy to tune and dyno the X. A guy at the local Jegs recommended him. The whole thing should run me $400
Had a scare the other night. Went out the titty bar with a few friends. Had after hours at a buddies house. Two of the girls that came back wanted to go get some ecstasy so I offered to drive. Drove around then got back to his place and messed around for a few then called it a night. On the way back my X starts making a funny noise under the hood. Literally the first thing that popped into my head was... " oh F*** theres the detonation everyones talkign about..." So I drive it very gently back to my apt. Then next day I get out drive to work. Then the boss asks me to go out on a quick delivery in my car. So I get done dropping something off to a customers apt. I look under the hood... the EGR piping came loose. man did the weight come off my shoulders.
I've had the EXACT same problem. The houses on the stock set up were replaced with some cheap dress up "Blue" hoses. They didn't last but 2 miles when one of them melted. The noise I heard sounded like a supped up weed eater.
Advice you didn't ask for...
Stay away from the titty clubs man. You'll never finish your project! Not to mention you could of had you're truck impounded!
Alright so Ive decided to add a fuel pressure guage and oil pressure guage. The fun part... finding a place to install the oil pressure sender. I think that installing an sandwich adapter would be the quickest and easiest way.
Heres the sandwich plate. Does that look right? Shouldnt the flat surface (where the oil would go into the filter) be more open? ie. Have more than just one hole for the oil to enter the filter
If I were doing it, and I will be in a bit, I'd get an electrical gauge and stick the sender between the stock oil pressure gauge and the block. I've thought of trying the project that is for the ranger of installing a different sender and putting a resistor on the back of the dash. I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
If I were doing it, and I will be in a bit, I'd get an electrical gauge and stick the sender between the stock oil pressure gauge and the block. I've thought of trying the project that is for the ranger of installing a different sender and putting a resistor on the back of the dash. I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
All the searches that ive found that deal with the stock sender sound complicated and time consuming. With stock = multiple pieces to plumb, with the risk of cracking the block. With oil filter = one part
Anydraw backs of the oil filter sandwich?
5#'s boost 30# injectors will be borderline. I have a set(6) if anyone is interested in them. I upgraded to 55# injectors.36#'ers should be fine for you. If I am not mistaken the EE supercharger kit comes with 30# injectors.
By the way I agree with Rocket about the Focus pump. It CAN be used with a return style system but there are usually more failures than successes. I have a return style setup and the tried the Focus pump it was just a complete nightmare. Continuously having problems, wouldn't hold pressure after the ignition was shut off and long cranking till started. As stated earlier I have a return style and currently use a Holley 255LPH forced induction pump(has a higher operating pressure for boosted apps) and have had zero problems to date.
Do you know what injectors would work for my vehicle? I would like to go with 36# or higher but I am unsure of what type (mainly electrical connections) would work.
Do you know what injectors would work for my vehicle? I would like to go with 36# or higher but I am unsure of what type (mainly electrical connections) would work.
My bad, it's the IAC valve. So where is the other valve located on the stock set-up? I don't see where that buger mounts?
If you have 6 wires going into your stocker MAS sensor then your IATS is incorporated into it. If you have 4 wires going into your MAS sensor then you probably have another little pair of wires running to another sensor (IATS) in your stocker intake tract. That is how it is for N/A vehicles. For taking a vehicle from stock N/A to supercharged you will need to make sure that either the stocker 6 pin MAS is modified and the wiring harness rewired to use a separate IATS or if you have the stock 4 pin MAS sensor then just buy the type of IATS that screws in versus just pops into the manifold and then extend the wires to it if you need to. The wiring harness pigtail may need to be changed. Hope that didnt get confusing.
kabukie - I'm really not sure about what size you should go with. I've seen procharger kits for mustangs running as mush 62lb accel injectors but not sure if that's needed? So if you're going with the Lighning MAF I would run what JAH81592 is running cuss he runs the same MAF if I'm not mistaken. That or whatever Rockest suggests.
The reason some Procharger kits for Mustangs have 62 lb/hr injectors is because they are going for INSANE power. I don't reccomend anything within that scale for a low boost supercharged 4.0 V6. 30's should be just fine and give you a little room for growth. Remember, that while bigger injectors will work, they also don't have a lot of finetunability down in the lower rpm range. They are designed to flow lots of fuel and not so much precision in th elower rpm range. The modern day injectors are one hell of a lot better than those of the past in performing both jobs relatively well, but it is always best to match the injector to the rough goals of that vehicle. I would have replied much earlier but I was on vacation.
A turbocharged engine is going to use more fuel at 6psi than a supercharged one- the supercharged engine is only making 6psi in the highest RPM range where as the turbo can make 6psi over a broad RPM range.
While the turbo'd vehicle will make more power it will not consume more peak fuel. When izing injectors the most critical part of getting them big enough is to take into account peak fuel flow. Sizing injectors for a 6 psi turbo setup is the same as for a 6 psi supercharger setup.
5#'s boost 30# injectors will be borderline. I have a set(6) if anyone is interested in them. I upgraded to 55# injectors.36#'ers should be fine for you. If I am not mistaken the EE supercharger kit comes with 30# injectors.
By the way I agree with Rocket about the Focus pump. It CAN be used with a return style system but there are usually more failures than successes. I have a return style setup and the tried the Focus pump it was just a complete nightmare. Continuously having problems, wouldn't hold pressure after the ignition was shut off and long cranking till started. As stated earlier I have a return style and currently use a Holley 255LPH forced induction pump(has a higher operating pressure for boosted apps) and have had zero problems to date.
Usually the failures are in the opposite direction. People using return (gerotor) pumps on returnless (turbine) vehicles. Focus pumps have been known to be temperamental though.
UPDATE!
Alright so I installed fuel pressure and oil pressure gauges. They are mount in an overhead pod. Its made to fit a newer fullsize truck. Ford Superduty Dodge Diesel. It goes right above the rear view mirror. It took some minor trimming but it fits. Got the oil pressure gauge wired and working. Im waiting on the fuel pressure till I install larger injectors.
The 30# injectors will be more than enough for the boost you'll run. The lightning MAF is calibrated however for 42# injectors. Blue tops are 24#, orange are 19#'s, and green are 42#'s. I run the lightning MAF and 42# injectors on my 5.4 with a 9psi blower, and a stock fuel pump. I have no pressure related problems.
If you have any specific questions, email me at stang99x@yahoo.com and I'll get you where you need to be. ANd you have the EV1 style connector most likely. Its a fat injector with a D shaped plug. The EV6 is skinny and longer with a square connector.
If he does everything right, I don't see that happening at all. He's not running a bunch of boost, the engine should be more than adequate to handle this.
If you hear the engine start 'pinging' get out of the throttle!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 ANDY
hey send me a pic when one of ur pistons flys out of ur engine..through ur hood and 30 feet into the air.
If he does everything right, I don't see that happening at all. He's not running a bunch of boost, the engine should be more than adequate to handle this.
If you hear the engine start 'pinging' get out of the throttle!
exactly im running 6lbs of boost at full throttle. not to mention fuel and MAF upgrades are on the way. look at the EE kit. basically the same thing im running. I highly doubt theyd sell a kit that would cause you to blow your engine.
exactly im running 6lbs of boost at full throttle. not to mention fuel and MAF upgrades are on the way. look at the EE kit. basically the same thing im running. I highly doubt theyd sell a kit that would cause you to blow your engine.
Lets see so far in price im at about $2000 with all the mods. However I bought this off someone else so that isnt the true price. normally the S/C kit is $2000 counting the blower. The install wasnt bad it took me about 8hrs on my own. Slight automotive knowledge does help. As far as improvements... im not sure what my numbers are yet. Im waiting till I get all my s/c upgrades in to tune/dyno the X
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im not sure what my numbers are yet. Im waiting till I get all my s/c upgrades in to tune/dyno the X
