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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
The inner fender has a unpunched spot
I just used a hole saw
Yes the silicone fits into all the little nooks and crannys when everything is installed
I'm putting insulation on now
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I like the seal material you have on the fender and radiator support there too. I just thought of that idea to cut a huge hole in that fender there. I'm going to try to use that to turn my filter sideways and extend into the fender a hair. This filter is oblong in shape, oval on both ends but grows larger on the outlet end. It didn't fit standing up well the one time I test fit it with no air cleaner there. But laying sideways maybe I can put it through the fender a little, and close it all in. The front has a hole behind the headlight too, we can use that also to feed the air cleaner box.
That does look familiar. Did you know that those seals are long ago obsolete, about 15 years now. If you ever see any good used one, save it. Or maybe someone will find a replacement like them which is long enough.
The air box seals completely on the hood ......that took some time .....
Sounds great to
I used 22 gauge steel
and CAD ...cardboard aided design...
I used duct insulation and foil tape on the outside of the box Inc the bottom
Definitely works well
Stays cool on the inside while hot on the outside
Definitely helped with temperatures just very hard to measure it but there is a huge difference
I found this project to be very challenging but got through it
I think it turned out good but I am bias
It makes a very loud hollow wishing sound and when under boost it whines way louder now
That sound like it explains why all of the first Ford 302's had a big plastic "muffler" in the right fender. That was the first thing I took out of my first 91 Mark VII when I got it in 1996. My 92 is stock and I bet still had that in it.
Please put a temp sensor in the fender, the air filter box, before the supercharger and then after the blower. Then get the data and report back.
Oh Ya! Please also take data from a cold start and after it's up to operating temperature for some time, so we can't make any sense from the readings after heat soak occurs. Can't make much sense of mine. Ha, ha..... JK too much work and I know it works well without all that.
The sensor in my Lightning MAF is not being used. I may rewire it if I can find a cheap gauge. I am curious and the sensor is already there.
The important temp sensor is mounted in the lower intake manifold on number 5 cylinder on mine. It does get heat-soaked after warm up and reads 180 or better. That temp will drop if cruising and at a lower ambient temp say 50. The sensor works as intended but with the heat-soak, it doesn't show actual IAT except on cold start-up and when it gets into boost and heats things up!
My SCT maf has a sensor but how do I wire it up to read The temps
I can put a switch so that my overhead display will display outside temp or in the maf temp
Plus there is no way to log it
Ford Sensors are 0-5 volts. The EECV provides reference voltage and then return is in voltage. I wonder if it is the same voltage as the ambient temp sensor?
Ambient temperature to intake air temperature sensor voltage is inversely proportionate, like a see saw.
On a two-wire thermistor circuit, high resistance = high voltage (signal), and that would mean low temperature.
And low resistance = low voltage (signal), and that would mean high temperature.
Ambient temperature to intake air temperature sensor voltage is inversely proportionate, like a see saw.
On a two-wire thermistor circuit, high resistance = high voltage (signal), and that would mean low temperature.
And low resistance = low voltage (signal), and that would mean high temperature.
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