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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
I think you could do damage over time if you ran without a thermostat in cold weather. It is always good to allow the engine to get up to temp before hammering on it.
Yes there is a Function to set when the ECT is warm enough to trigger Open Loop fuel. This summer, I set my tune to allow Open Loop at 150 degrees and run a 180 degree thermostat. I wanted it to be able to get into open loop sooner and start cooling earlier.
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Yup , good, open loop is determined by a few things and changes across engines and tuning strategies.. It will go into open loop after the ECT is reached and if the throttle position, load, rpm, are right...............mine used ECT and a table for load vs rpm. I got open loop coming in around 2000rpm and 80% load as that is when I observed the boost coming on.
Just some thoughts I wanted to share while I still remember them.
At the training facility I used to work at I had a 2005 Crown Vic that I saw go into closed loop at low temperatures, I remember seeing it around 120 degree F and that was a 2005. It may have done that at even lower temperatures but I specifically remember 120. With heated oxygen sensors closed loop can be achieved before the vehicle is up to operating temperature.
That is very different from the way things used to be back before OBD2 came out. The Crown Vic is just one example, there are more.
Thermostats have gone up in temperature ratings for a few reasons, two of them are emissions and fuel economy.
Even at 180 degrees coolant temperature, fuel in the cylinder can condensate on the cylinder walls and not get burned. That raises HC's in the exhaust and of course any fuel that is not burned is negatively effecting fuel mileage. So they went from 180 to 195. I have heard of higher thermostat temperatures as well.
I had a student who complained of about a 25% decrease in fuel mileage on his old 2nd gen explorer. He was traveling quite a distance to get to school Monday through Friday. His vehicle called for a 195 degree thermostat. To test if it was working we plugged the Ford Factory scan tool called the IDS in and looked at coolant temp along with some other data pids and started the vehicle. After 20 minutes of running it still would not go over 160 degree's. By then it should have been up to 195. That weekend he installed a new thermostat and found the old one stuck open. His fuel mileage went back to what he was used to.
Also for the record, closed loop means the PCM is getting feedback from the oxygen sensors and making adjustments based off those readings.
Open loop means the PCM is ignoring the O2 sensor readings.
Older vehicles with narrowband O2 sensors could not be in closed loop at 70-100% (WOT strategy).
Newer vehicles with wideband sensors can achieve closed loop even at 70-100 throttle so if you go into a fuel starvation scenario the PCM can compensate for it using fuel trims (up to a point of course).
Older vehicles require using a wide band setup to tune for WOT so one must be added but newer vehicles already have them so you dont have to add a wideband setup.
There are different types of open loop:
Regular "open loop" is when the vehicle was just started or O2 sensors are not warmed up yet.
"Open loop drive" is when the vehicle is being driven at 70-100 throttle.
Open Loop fault is when a malfunction has happened and a code was set (usually a fault with an O2 sensor or the fuel trims go far away from 0%.
There is another situation where one bank O2 sensor fails and both bank fuel trims are adjusted off the readings from the bank with the one good sensor but I forget what Ford called it.
I had my 4.0 SOHC overheat twice and the 2nd time was just before Winter. I drove it through a month of cold weather, the thermostat(failsafe) locked open, and the temps ran just over 100* going to work with temps in the teens outside. I was using a piece of cardboard, and finally got around to reinstalling the first T'stat that I had fixed(unlocked the tiny tangs which locked it open).
You don't want coolant temps so low that it affects fuel economy that much, over 150* should do that. I'm aiming for a level just under 170*, get the thermostat to open around 160 and set the fans to keep it stable a little above that. In very cold weather a 180* thermostat is probably best for more heat in the vehicle. Mine did barely okay(heat inside the truck) when I got the temps above 135* with the right amount of blockage of the radiator(T'stat stuck open). That cold spell then was about 10 days long, I fixed the thermostat just after that.
GlowShift Fuel Rail Adapter Thread Adapters for Ford 5.0 Vehicles Make It Easy to Install a Fuel Pressure Sensor Without Major Vehicle Modifications.
www.glowshiftdirect.com
The adapter has a adjustable pin in the middle and a o ring
To depress the schrader valve and seal the thing
Its made of aluminum
I also used thread sealant for good measure
The gauge leaked because it wasn't level
I did not want to change it much so I used A 45° brass fitting
After it was level i vented the gauge for more accurate reading Any time
I also added a yellow tint just in case some break clean hits it
And it looks good to me
Great thread! (Been reading it start to finish past couple of hours!) Looking forward to installing mine. Sounds like you're way ahead of me on the learning curve but I'm also wanting to do the transmission & engine rebuild first.
Did you do anything in particular to your engine's internals? I'm at 260k+ miles so going to have a local rebuilder go through it. Based on a lot of comments here & elsewhere I'm planning on using a Motorcraft timing set but other than that open to suggestions.
Not sure what happened but
After replacing that knock sensor this thing is running better than ever
Watching the sct I'm gaining 10° spark across the board .....give or take depending on throttle
So this is good??
Not sure what happened but
After replacing that knock sensor this thing is running better than ever
Watching the sct I'm gaining 10° spark across the board .....give or take depending on throttle
So this is good??
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