Suspension Squeaks like crazy!

[natedogg0897]

Hey this is probably a real easy problem but my suspension on my Explorer XLT is squeaking like hell, when i turn, hit a bump or anything and its loud too. Any Suggestions and is this common in explorers? I had the same problem with my 02' XSport.

 

[kclaw]

I have the same problem, but is is only coming from the drivers side. I just cannot figure out what is causing it. However, after I drive it for about 20 minutes, the squeak goes away.

It squeaks when I turn the wheel, and when I go over a bump. I would love to know what others think is wrong.

 

[daffy]

When mine did that it was a lower ball joint.

Until I replaced my swaybar bushings with poly units, now it squeaks until I hit them with silicone.

Grab the castle nut on the bottom joint, and have someone move the car, I could feel the squeak in my palm.

 

[sjr033]

I second the ball joint. While you are checking them, you might as well check the outer tie rods

 

[parad1mg]

if its on the front drivers side and it sounds like a loud creaking sound then its probably the balljoint on the UCA.. i had this loud squeeking noise and when i replaced mine it went away.. try daffy's suggestion.. grap one of the suspension components while rocking the car and wherever the vibration comes from the strongest must be the source of the squeak..

 

[Mikeri]

If the squeek sounds like an old bed, try squirting some silicon between the sway bar and the sway bar bushings. Worked for me.

 

[Superwhite]

I've got a 2001 Sport Trac. Recently I had the rear differential seal replaced. Now, every so often after I turn the car off, with nothing running, I hear long suspension squeaks coming from the rear end. The car is motionless. It sounds like squeaky springs, but there is nothing moving to create the noise. I'm baffled.

 

[chrisH!]

2001 Mountaineer squeeks

My truck just hit 95K miles. Two days ago it started squeeking in the front drivers side. It has rapidly gotten worse, while turning the wheel (either moving or stopped), most bumps etc. I lifted it up, pulled the wheels and jiggled everything. All the ball joints seem good, but there is a little upward movement in the lowers (both sides, but no metallic clunks while driving). As I turn the spindles by hand I hear a squeek from both upper ball joints, sounds like rubber squeeking. I also hear a slight squeek in the steering rack as it approaches the locks. I know about the sway bar squeeks, have been spraying silicone on them for years, so I did that but it did not help this time. It seems wierd that both sides have the same noises at the same time and just out of the blue, the truck has never been used to plow or off road, I actually baby it. Is this noise a tell tale sign of upper ball joint wear even though they seem tight? I am also curious about the cost since the Haynes manual says you have to replace the whole control arm. Any estimate on cost of both upper and lower control arm replacement?? I have replaced ball joints and control arms before but never on a torsion bar suspension. any help would be greatly apreciatted, Chris

 

[bluestream1]

If you lay down under the front end of the truck youican push up and down on the frame and try to localize the noise. I had to put my hand on the outer tie rod to feel the vibration to finally fiqure out the squeek. I put a small screwdriver in the boot to open it up and I sprayed some fogging oil in. That was two years ago, and it has been quite since...

 

[cobra46]

Squeaking Joints

If your vehicle has squeaking joints you can generally stop the squeak on balljoints and tie rods by lubing them with a grease gun with a needle attachment unless of course, they have a zerk. The needle attachment can be purchased at most auto parts stores. The sway bar and control arm bushings can be lubed with silicone, WD-40, or any good penetrating oil. This can save an expensive repair that may not be needed.

 

[Silver X]

I used the needle attachment to lube my ball joints last year. Worked well to quiet the squeaking.

This summer, the suspension started squeaking again. Lubing the ball jonts didn't help this time. Dry anti-sway bar bushings were the problem. Took off the front and rear bushings and lubed them up with a thick silicone grease. Nice and quiet again.

 

[96eb96]

My truck just hit 95K miles. Two days ago it started squeeking in the front drivers side. It has rapidly gotten worse, while turning the wheel (either moving or stopped), most bumps etc. I lifted it up, pulled the wheels and jiggled everything. All the ball joints seem good, but there is a little upward movement in the lowers (both sides, but no metallic clunks while driving). As I turn the spindles by hand I hear a squeek from both upper ball joints, sounds like rubber squeeking. I also hear a slight squeek in the steering rack as it approaches the locks. I know about the sway bar squeeks, have been spraying silicone on them for years, so I did that but it did not help this time. It seems wierd that both sides have the same noises at the same time and just out of the blue, the truck has never been used to plow or off road, I actually baby it. Is this noise a tell tale sign of upper ball joint wear even though they seem tight? I am also curious about the cost since the Haynes manual says you have to replace the whole control arm. Any estimate on cost of both upper and lower control arm replacement?? I have replaced ball joints and control arms before but never on a torsion bar suspension. any help would be greatly apreciatted, Chris

There are stickies up the page with very detailed instructions on changing these parts. It is not anymore difficult than a car. The lower can pressed in, the upper is replaced with the entire arm.

 

[hz36t5]

That was it bluestream1! Small screwdriver thru tthe boot at the top and some silicone spray.

 

[96V8Xploder]

It sounds like your torsion bars are making the noise. Torsion bar suspension is very common to have just one side or both making noises. It usually is a high pitch and loud noise. It also usually only happens when you hit bumps and taking turns, so this could be your problem. Mine does it on the front right because I did a TT and it makes them more likely to squeak.

 

[chrisH!]

Thanks for the reply. What is a TT? Sorry I may be a newbie I guess! I have since replaced all the balljoints. The squeek has gotten much less, but I still hear it sometimes(sounds like the old sway bar again) but I hear a slight clunk after hitting bumps now. How do you fix the torsion bar issue?? Thanks, chris

 

[96V8Xploder]

Thanks for the reply. What is a TT? Sorry I may be a newbie I guess! I have since replaced all the balljoints. The squeek has gotten much less, but I still hear it sometimes(sounds like the old sway bar again) but I hear a slight clunk after hitting bumps now. How do you fix the torsion bar issue?? Thanks, chris

They call it a torsion twist. This is when you crank your front torsions so you raise the front of the vehicle. You can get on average 1"-2" of lift. This will make the ride a little stiffer as well. I have not yet fixed mine. The cupler that carries the rear of the torsion arm is were its coming from. Sometimes just some grease lightning and water can resolve the issue. They just get dirty in the joints and creek from metal to metal contact. Brake calipers are also netorious for coming loose so check that out.

 

[alohamonte]

what grease is recommended to use for lubricating the balljoints?

mine are brand new (less than 5,000 miles) and squeak over big bumps.

 

[cobra46]

Grease

Any good chassis grease will work, I think moly and lithium are the best. Hot or cold weather has little effect on them and they are available at most parts stores. They are also used by the factories however, from what I've seen in this forum I'd say in very small amounts.

 

[alohamonte]

sounds good. i'll try the screw driver trick to get inside the sealed/booted ball joints.

 

[dkchrist]

My suggestion... kill the mice

No really, PETA might not like me saying that...:scratch:

Any who, check for loose components too, sometimes things work loose and are allowed to move (namely the rubber bushings in the arms), check everything for tight then move on to components above so you might save some dough by not replacing anything. But I think you guys got this covered so I will butt out now.