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Swapping carrier and setting backlash

nitro71

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From what I'm understanding going from a limited slip to open rear end requires swapping the carrier. I'm pretty sure the carrier is the whole internal differential part with gears and everything, ring and spiders?

When putting the new open carrier back in you'll have to set backlash. Backlash is the side to side position of of the carrier? You use shims and a guage to set that. Would a guage such as this be suitable:

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G9849-Magnetic-Indicator-Combo/dp/B0000DD0VA

Found this kicking write up by some guy:

http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html
 



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No, backlash is the movement between the ring gear and the pinion gear. Once the carrier is back in, you'll turn the ring gear by hand until it hits the pinion gear. Do this back and forth to get the backlash. Backlash is set mainly by the pinion depth but you can add more shims to one side of the carrier or other to "hone" in on the back lash. Again, you set the backlash by the pinion depth and that's the most important part; the pinion depth.

The carrier will have no movement from side to side. In fact, you'll shim it until it doesn't move, then add a small shim to set pre-load on the carrier bearings.

And yes, you can use that dial indicator to get the backlash measurement.
 






Am I correct in thinking the carrier is the whole internal assembly? I'll try to score one next time I'm at the junk yard and don't want to get more parts than neccesary. Want to get rid of the LS so I can put a locker back there.
 






Yes, you'll pull the cover and turn the carrier until you find the little 10MM bolt that holds the pinion shaft. Take that bolt out, slide the pinion shaft out, push the axles in as far as they'll go (you'll have to take the brake calipers out of the way) then take the c-clips out, slide both axles out, loosen the 4 main carrier bolts, and pry the carrier out. It'll be a little tight, like I said it will have pre-load on the bearings so be careful when prying out cuss it's known to pop out once it get's moving. The pro's use a strap to make sure it won't fly out and hurt someone.
 






Thanks man! I'll strap the carrier in when I pull the axles and pop it out. Got it. Not sure when I'm hitting the junk yard but soon. I might just pull the whole axle also if the price is close to the same.
 






I would really suggest you do pull the entire rear. I'm not saying you can't swap the carrier but take it from someone that has done this; this will not be an easy thing to do if you do it by the book. What I mean is I took my entire rear-end out from under the truck to do this carrier swap. I had to take the carrier back out several times when setting the backlash. It's pretty much a trial and error procedure. You'll start off with a certain shim to get you in the ball park and check back lash. If it's not right, you'll have to take it back apart and add or subtract shims. You'll more than likely do this several times. Then when you get it right it's time to crush the crush sleeve and it take major force to do this. I don't see how anyone could do this under the truck with just a jack so if you plan on leaving the rear end on the truck and swap only the carrier, be warned. It's not going to be easy.

Not trying to persuade you either way but thought you should know from someone that has done this.

Oh, and make sure to lock-tite the bolts once you put em back in for the final time.
 






I appreciate the advice.. by the time I buy the guages and crush washer and shims it probably is cheaper to just get the axle. Our local pull n save doesn't charge much for parts.
 






I can also find some decent drums to slap on it also when I score the axle.
 






Dangit(not sure swearing is allowed on the forum) someone scored my 3.73 rear end at the local pull n save. Now I'll just have to wait for another to come in.
 






Get one from a 2nd gen - you'll get disc brakes! Drums are a PITA to overhaul while changing pads on calipers takes 30 mins for both sides.
 






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