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Sway Bar Opinions

I know you are coilover and I’m just standard coils. From my experience with the leverage effect of the TTB that body roll with soft springs of 250lbs an inch was only a little worse then the 435lb an inch springs at the same lift height.

I then started researching shock valving. For my front shocks I ran Bilstein 5100 rear shocks meant for a 05 F350. In my research I found the valving on them is roughly 180/70. Stock valving on the Chevy duramax is in the pic

View attachment 166816

Telling me that our TTB (ifs) need a very stiff valve shock.

You may need spring rate (bottom out to easy) our you might need to revalve. If you hit a bump at 50 plus and it makes the truck scrimish I would stiffen the valving.

Also what is in the rear?

I have just finished my dual shocks in the front, both 180/70 ish so 360/140 together. If it compresses in the front the opposite corner will rebound. I plan on using 2003 f350 6” lift front Bilstein 5100 shocks for my rear. They are roughly 225/80 and roughly 16” compressed and 26” extended

I ran mine without swaybars for about a year. I ended up putting the front swaybar back on to control the sway from bumps. My front springs are 240#/in XJ coils and the rear ******* pack 64" chevy leaves are 320#/in. The rear would overpower the front when you hit a pot hole with one rear tire it would force the front suspension to react instead of the rear doing its job. I have a set of JBG fullsize super flex coils (340#/in) in the shop for it. I have to build new buckets for these springs as I have modified what I have to fit the jeep coils and these new coils are the early Ford coil style. I've thought about trying to sell these and find some TTB coils with a similar rate and make my install easier. The 240#/in coils have sagged out a couple inches, so I know they aren't stout enough. They sure ride nice though. I had not thought about running double shocks maybe making a difference in control. I also didn't know that the Bilstein 5100s were valved application specific. I run them on my other rigs and love them.
 






I ran mine without swaybars for about a year. I ended up putting the front swaybar back on to control the sway from bumps. My front springs are 240#/in XJ coils and the rear ******* pack 64" chevy leaves are 320#/in. The rear would overpower the front when you hit a pot hole with one rear tire it would force the front suspension to react instead of the rear doing its job. I have a set of JBG fullsize super flex coils (340#/in) in the shop for it. I have to build new buckets for these springs as I have modified what I have to fit the jeep coils and these new coils are the early Ford coil style. I've thought about trying to sell these and find some TTB coils with a similar rate and make my install easier. The 240#/in coils have sagged out a couple inches, so I know they aren't stout enough. They sure ride nice though. I had not thought about running double shocks maybe making a difference in control. I also didn't know that the Bilstein 5100s were valved application specific. I run them on my other rigs and love them.

I tried jeep coils, Couldn’t even drive it. I thought about sway bars before I went to dual shocks. I can see sway bars for better cornering but for hitting a bump and having the body sway because the shock can’t control the suspension it’s a band aid. Just my opinion. I learned a lot about shocks lol
 






It is a bandaid.
 






I don’t run a stabilizer either.
 






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