Switch in shifter column.....

[miker104]

Looks Like a Panasonic switch, likely a customized application for Ford:

http://pewa.panasonic.com/pcsd/product/sw/pdf/abj.pdf

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

Will do when I get home tonight.

Need a new switch because the thin metal actuator that presses the button that closes the circuit is broken off. It's normally activated by the gear selector when it's put into park. If you look in the picture above, the metal piece is making contact with the base of the gear selector. Mine is now missing that .

Thanks for all of the help so far, guys... I REALLY appreciate it.

 

[RickM]

If you have the broken end of the actuator please take a pic of that as well.

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

I'm pretty sure I still have it.. I'll look tonight.

 

[DLinkOZ]

From what I read in that other thread, that swith isn't a pos/neg setup. It's most likely a NO switch and when the lever is actuated, the circuit closes. I would ohm it out, I'll be it's open when not actuated, and when you press the lever it closes and you get continuity. Again, from that other thread it appears to simply meter the ground to the BSI (on/off ground signal).

 

[jakedrew]

any update for us?

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

No update this morning on my end. Got home late and things got busy with dinner, the little one, etc.. Will try to snap some pictures when I get home tonight.

Thinking about just going to a pick-n-pull and seeing if they've got one.

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

Snapped a couple of pictures after prying the switch from the little post it's attached to. Wiring goes under the column and to the firewall (red and yellow wires in last pic). Switch is a little mangled from using a screwdriver for the past few days to activate the switch to get the key out of the ignition.

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

... and here is the broken part of the actuator:

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

Any of my expert helpers been able to come up with anything?

I've been browsing Ford's parts website, but am at work and can't see any pictures for the parts I think it might be. Can anyone look at them and tell me if one of these might be the switch I'm after?


Brake Switch Interlock:
14S411 (WPT-210)

Wiring Repair Harness (Switch-Ignition)
14S411 (WPT-804)

Doubtful that my luck would lead me to the correct part numbers, but it's worth a shot.

Thanks for all of the help to this point, everyone.

 

[schach23]

So the BSI is the switch that allows you to shift when you put your foot on the brake. The pin drops down. You used one of my pics. When I shift from Drive to Park, I get hung up in R, and it's a know issue with the explorer. Ford fixed the BSI switch, by putting in a shorter pin. So I don't think that's your problem.

Scott

 

[therealblinky]

no, he`s talking about the switch that controlls your key lock. i dont think it has anything to do with the BSI. Im having the same problem right now, but its cause i broke the shifter off and now i need to use a key to press the same switch to get my key out.

 

[Explorer Pete]

Hi All, had the same switch mess up in my truck. The switch broke off at the mounting point, when the shift lever broke. Was able to use a wire tie wrap to lock the switch down. Sprayed a little WD 40 in the key hole. Have not had any problems since. That was over 7 months ago. What took the longest to repair was the shift lever itself. The shift lever is made out of POT metal. A realy bright Idea that Ford came up with. If, no when it breaks, you will find out that Ford will charge you around $800 to $900 for the colum assembly that has another pot metal shift lever in it. Sorry for the rant, hope this helps with the switch, have found no problem with the switch in this position.

 

[vbill26]

I'm having the same thing i need both switches. Can anyone help Ford is no help!

 

[reod]

Sandstone, First, thanks for the info. I had the same problem here and no help from two dealerships or two online ford parts supply companies.
My solution was to eliminate the BSI solenoid. After breaking the tabs and removing the BSI from the column, I reassembled everything. Now the shift selector travels the full range without anything interrupting it's travel. BE CAREFUL, the selector will also move when the ignition is OFF. This workaround is not recommended if you have children who might accidently move your Explorer if left unattended in the vehicle. ALSO, make sure you set the PARK BRAKE when leaving your vehicle. The BSI appears to be a dumb switch with no electrical loop affecting other electronics (I hope). So far, so good.

 

[Viator66]

My '03 Explorer XLT shifter/micro switch broke while shifting into "Park". After a tow to my local dealer and their provided "fix"...I found your many comments on this issue. I ordered the new Dorman shift tube, but my micro switch damaged was the upper one and my Ford Tech tried to reinstall that $0.02 metal tab that popped out/broke (I believe to be one part of the total failure mode). Since I've got small children I've opted for get a used column and having the Ford Tech install the Dorman part in it and (hopefully) that will solve any future problems. But has anyone found that supplier of those damn micro/mechanical switches yet? I can stomach having to replace a worn out wheel bearing at 124,000 miles, BUT not this shifter column problem...LOL!

 

[Lurkin]

brake shift interlock microswitchHi all,

Over the last few days, my wife's been having a tough time getting the key out of the ignition of her 2004 Explorer. After some coaxing, it would take care of itself and the key would pop on out. Until today.

I parked the car and when I went to pull the key out of the ignition, it would not budge. No amount of coaxing would fix it.

Soo... we bring the car home and I pull off the rubber "boot" that covers the gear lever to the steering column and see the problem immediately. There is a small switch that when the gear selector is in park, it relays that information to the car and lets you remove the key. The thin piece of metal that actuates this switch was broken off and resting in some of the shifter's grease.

Question is... am I going to able to replace just this switch, or am I going to wind up having to repair it using Ford's mantra.. "all of our parts are sold as assemblies"?

Also... anyone out there who's done this repair or can point me in the right direction, I would certainly appreciate any tips / tricks you would be willing to share.

Thank you!

Did anyone ever figure out part numbers or anything on this? I have the same issue, this thread helped me identify it, thank you. AND, which one is it really called: the Lock Actuator OR brake shift interlock microswitch?

Mine is broken, and I need to find the right one a figure out how to fix it. Otherwise, I finally realized that the key will not come out of the ignition unless I disconnect the battery, or if I manually push the switch, since the one side ear lock broke off

 

[MikeMeaux]

I have the exact same issue on my 04 'Sploder. I even snipped the wires to the stupid blue box and spliced them to complete the circuit and the key still won't budge. I have to unplug my ignition switch (which is brand spanking new) to get the key out. Did anyone find a part number for this idiotic blue switch (and I replaced my shift lever pivot cylinder, and wasn't apparently careful enough and managed to rip the blue thing right off). The only thing I can think of is that the mounting of the blue box on the metal steering column acted as a ground that closed the circuit.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I have the exact same issue on my 04 'Sploder. I even snipped the wires to the stupid blue box and spliced them to complete the circuit and the key still won't budge. I have to unplug my ignition switch (which is brand spanking new) to get the key out. Did anyone find a part number for this idiotic blue switch (and I replaced my shift lever pivot cylinder, and wasn't apparently careful enough and managed to rip the blue thing right off). The only thing I can think of is that the mounting of the blue box on the metal steering column acted as a ground that closed the circuit.

The circuit shouldn’t need a ground, it’s just a switch. Depending on the programming it might want to see the switch, it might not. Did you try leaving the wires disconnected and pulling the key out? Having them jumpered might be incorrect.

 

[MikeMeaux]

The circuit shouldn’t need a ground, it’s just a switch. Depending on the programming it might want to see the switch, it might not. Did you try leaving the wires disconnected and pulling the key out? Having them jumpered might be incorrect.

I can't help but to the think the switch itself is somehow important. It's built like a relay almost, with all the plasticy rubbery type of filling. It won't release the key together, apart, together and touching a ground...it's just weird. It does seem like the two blue sensors have a dedicated harness that clips in under the lower column shroud, so who knows. I'm gonna try and pull the whole thing from a junkyard Saturday and see what I see.

I agree it's just a switch. Close the circuit and it should release the key, but nope. I have to pull the ignition switch or the negative battery connection (so definitely electrical)