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T-Case swap?

i just got done putting fresh OE upper ball joints in, how long do you think they'll last?

i dont plan on doing any TT, i'll take the fenders off befor that happens, lol.

if my stock ball joints take a crap again, i'm thinking of having the stock ball joint machined out of the A-arm and having them fitted for some press in style ball joints.

I also would like to know how add-a-leafs work on explorers w/o an axle flip?

I believe moog acutally sells a special upper arm that can take a replaceable joint. Check rockauto.
 



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The upper ball joints will last a long time, they are just usually the first to go when something does. It's hard offroading which usually wears them out faster.
 






The MOOG upper control arm is seriously beefed up in the area around the larger greasable/replaceable ball joint.

Comparison of Moog UCA (top) to the factory Ranger/Explorer arm:

moog_UCA_comparison.jpg
 






Very good Bob, I didn't know that the Moog joints were better like the lowers are.
 






yeah, i've heard for the most part moog makes strong chasie parts, but theres no contest between the moog and the OE (aftermarket) A arm.
 






for anyone who wants the part number for the moog its "MOOG Part # K80068"

I also saw what looks like a 1/2 a arm replacemnt for if you still have stock A arms.
 






for anyone who wants the part number for the moog its "MOOG Part # K80068"

I also saw what looks like a 1/2 a arm replacemnt for if you still have stock A arms.
Be careful online, especially eBay. There are vendors selling cheap UCAs and lower ball joints using MOOG part numbers for reference. The geniune MOOG parts will run about $100~150 each for UCAs and about $40 each for the lower ball joints.

DS one-piece UCA
(MOOG K8708T):

UCA w/replaceable/greasable ball joint
B000C5608O.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_V55043168_.jpg


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

PS one-piece UCA
(MOOG K80068)

UCA w/replaceable/greasable ball joint
Similar appearance to K8708T above but with slightly different ball joint offset.
B000C5608O.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_V55043168_.jpg


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

PS 2-piece style ball joint carrier
(MOOG K8710T) :

Carrier w/replaceable/greasable ball joint
Note: this part is discontinued and may not be available. The entire 2-piece PS UCA assembly can be replaced by the 1-piece K80068.
B000C544RI.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_V55043888_.jpg
 






Agreed, many sellers are very bad about abusing descriptions from others.
 






i dont think i'll worrie about the UCA because it just got new OE ones, and i'll prolly just end up SASing it when they go again. I plan on using a dana 30 out of a jeep (YJ for leaf springs) or a dana 44 with leaf springs, and during the same time do a axle flip in the rear. how much lift does an axle flip in the rear yeild?, 2-4"?
 












What length is the rear drive shaft from the 5.4 Expidition? i went to a yard that had all the parts but they said there were differnt lengths, so i need to know how long the 5.4 Expidition drive shaft.
 






ok, i need to know the length of the expidition drive shaft because no local junkyard around where i live have any and i dont want to wait for one to ship. so i need some mesurments of your drive shafts plz.
 






Mine measures 36" from the back flange to the front u-joint, which sounds short. I'm looking in the old threads for numbers.
 






i have a 1354 out of a 89 f150 avaible to me for free, would this one work? or would i have to change output shafts on my tranny?
 






i'm not sure if the case out of the 89 is a 1354 but it has the same spline count as the 4404 that came out of it. The only problem is going to be fiting the thing in there (I think i'm gonna have to drop the front of the gas tank) and then having driveshafts & shift linkages made.
 






would a rear drive shaft out of a short box f150 work?? I think that it would be the right lenght but i'm not sure if it would have the correct rear flange.

just to recap exactly what i need:

-BW 4406 manual shift (97 or 98 for speed sensor in tail shaft)
-front drive shaft out of 4.6 truck
-autozone adaptor u joint
-expidition rear driveshaft (or drive shaft of 36")
-shift linkages

anything else?? i dont think i'm going to worrie about hooking up indicator light that tells me if its engaged or not because i usual pay close atention to vehicals i'm dirving.
 






ok, i'm about 1/2 way done with the swap. i got and installed today a 4406 out of a 98 f150 with the speed sensor in the tail housing. i got a expidition driveshaft as well today but i'm going to wait to put the gas tank back up in place befor i put that in. at first i tryed to shove it up in there with out droping the gastank, bad idea, just wasted alot of time.
 






is the autozone u joint in the swap thread for the front drive shaft?
 






You need a conversion joint for the #1 joint. You remove the front flange and install the conversion joint and toss the flange. Conversion joint bolts right up.

Rear shaft should be around 36" from rear flange to center of front U-Joint. What you want to have is the slip yoke pulled out about one and a half inches with the driveline installed. Of course, longer travel suspension set ups have different requirements.

Here is the drivelines I used on my conversion:

Rear is out of a 1998 Expedition with the 5.4.
Front is out of an F150 (Expedition would be the same) with a 4.6. Please be aware that it needs to be from a 4.6 for the front shaft. That's what gives you the short version. The Expeditions used a different trans behind the 5.4 models. It's longer. That's why a 5.4 Expedition will have a longer front driveline and a shorter rear driveline than a 4.6 model.

One other thing I wanted to bring to your attention if you haven't addressed it already. Just make sure the tail housing you have is for a gear driven VSS and not for a sensor utilizing a toner ring.
 



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Also gear grinder...please let us know if this all fits under your car with the secondary cats in place!
 






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