Teds Shed Build Thread

[Josh P]

What would you be wanting to gain that a nut and bolt wouldn't accomplish? Everything I've ever owned stated to not weld the frame either on the frame or buried in the owners manual.

 

[Teds Shed]

Thank you for the reply. I'm not for one way or the other, but it's one of those "since I have it this far apart" kind of things.

Tomorrow I hope to have more to post as far as the frame straightening. My thought was that once it was adjusted, welding would help lock it in more than just bolting it. This is why I was asking. Obviously, it is less work if I don't weld it.

 

[Josh P]

Thank you for the reply. I'm not for one way or the other, but it's one of those "since I have it this far apart" kind of things.

Tomorrow I hope to have more to post as far as the frame straightening. My though was that once it was adjusted, welding would help lock it in more than just bolting it. This is why I was asking. Obviously, it is less work if I don't weld it.

Someone more knowledgeable than me would have better insight.

 

[410Fortune]

Box it
If you really want to upgrade the factory frame and stop all the twist g the frame should be boxed in the middle section
A couple of additional crossmembers would
Also really help one up front behind the front bumper and bracing for the rear in front of the fuel tank

I never thought about adding some welds… probably would not hurt to keep things more rigid

If you look at these trucks from 1983 to essentially the end of their run in 2011 uou can see the improvements ford made. For example The 02 sport frame is boxed

 

[Teds Shed]

Box it

That's dangerous advice. Before you know it, I'll be back up in Cascade getting Scott to cut me some plates.

I have a crossmember idea that I'll hopefully post tomorrow after I straighten the frame. Still, I'm not ruling anything out, as I'd like to benefit from other's builds and just do this once.

 

[fordpickupman]

Box it.
But different than most guys do.....

 

[Teds Shed]

Yesterday I was able to get back on the frame work. If you remember, there was a couple of bulges. I managed to get them pretty close to gone using my log splitter as a frame press. I stacked thick stuff inside and pushed it with the splitter as a "hammer -on-dolly" technique. Once I had the side done, I straightened the bottom flange using a chunk of railroad track and a modified Sterling shaft for a "hammer -off-dolly" technique. It's not smooth flat, but it does pass the straight edge test.

 

[Teds Shed]

With that all done, I set it up on my redneck frame jig. I use Ford jacks and aluminum straight edges to get my measurements. I got it all leveled and found out that the left rear frame rail kicks up 0.7 degrees. After talking it over with my dad, we decided to leave it, as the frame and suspension move so much every foot of driving that we would just be chasing our tails trying to adjust out less than 1 degree. To put that in to real numbers, the aluminum pieces are 7 feet long (old server rack) and it measures 1/8" different, side to side

 

[Teds Shed]

Opinion time. Here's my idea for frame stiffening. 1x2" 1/8" wall tube in an X pattern to tie the radius arm location to the leaf spring mount. With my 1.5" body lift, it'll sit on top of the frame, and the X should keep it out of the way of drivetrain stuff.

Thoughts?

 

[410Fortune]

Box it

X will help tie the TOPS of two rails together yes
Hopefully clear exhaust and drivelines
Your bracing should also reach the bottom of the c channel frame to help stiffen

But the frame rails will still twist which is what causes all the body flex and rips up the floor pans

1/8” is nothing! Can make up for any imperfections at the body mounts

If I had my bii down to the frame you better believe I would be boxing the rails from front engine cradle back to rear spring support

Can use dimple dyes for strength and weight
Can still run fuel, wiring, brake and evap lines through the frame rails if you only box the middle where it’s needed the most

These suckers are real flexy from the factory
The more rigid you make it now the harder the suspension will have to work and the more in touch with the road you will feel

 

[Teds Shed]

Box it
If you really want to upgrade the factory frame and stop all the twist g the frame should be boxed in the middle section
A couple of additional crossmembers would
Also really help one up front behind the front bumper and bracing for the rear in front of the fuel tank

I never thought about adding some welds… probably would not hurt to keep things more rigid

If you look at these trucks from 1983 to essentially the end of their run in 2011 uou can see the improvements ford made. For example The 02 sport frame is boxed

I just re-read this. Thank you for the input. Here's my thoughts on these points.

After yesterday's work, I'm not going to box it. This frame isn't perfect, and that much work on a not-perfect frame would bother me. I'd rather just build a tube frame at that point (which I'm not going to do).

I'm going to have a front receiver hitch, so that will function as a front crossmember. Can you explain the " in front of the fuel tank" comment? There's a crossmember there.

I think I'm going to lock in my X dimension and then weld the crossmembers, just along the frame flange. Also, my thought about the X brace would help with this as well.

 

[Teds Shed]

Box it

X will help tie the TOPS of two rails together yes

Your bracing should also reach the bottom of the c channel frame to help stiffen

If I had my bii down to the frame you better believe I would be boxing the rails from front engine cradle back to rear spring support

Do you mean to the front spring hanger for the rear springs? Or all the way to the end of the frame?

I don't want to add a bunch of weight and time, but I also don't want to later wish I had done something.

Posts like yours give me analysis paralysis

 

[410Fortune]

From engine cradle back to leaf spring hanger, (just the front one)

You could go all the way to the front and to the back but there is really no need as the factory crossmembers are stiff there (engine cradle and in front of tank) and by boxing the middle section you are gonna reduce almost all of it

See how only two of the crossmembers actually attach to the top and bottom of the c channel?!

The others are only on top rail or bottom rail because they have ti clear drivelines / drivetrain

I should have some time this afternoon I’ll do a quick photoshop lol
I’m sure you can decipher what I’m getting at

Take some measurements I think the frame is 6” y’all have Scott cut you some 1/4” plate rectangles and dimple dye them all up… one or two days of work here will make a big difference

I’ve wheeled my bii for 25 years and now I need a new frame it has ripped in several locations
They are tough!!

 

[Teds Shed]

Thanks for the reply. I look forward to your photoshop.

I'm assuming 1/4" is a typo. Surely. The frame is only 1/8"

 

[410Fortune]

I’m not good with metal gauges
1/8” seems thin lol

 

[Teds Shed]

I wrote that in a hurry. It’s technically 10 ga, not 1/8”. They are close, but 10 ga is a little thicker. Still, 1/4” is almost double the thickness, which would be way overkill

 

[fordpickupman]

.134" 10 gauge. Plenty for what you're talking about.

 

[Teds Shed]

You guys are talking me into it. Thoughts on this layout?

 

[410Fortune]

Perfecto better then any photoshop

With large dimple dyes not only is it strong but you can still access any fasteners top and bottom, I love it

I have a set of dimple dyes if Scott doesn’t
(Bwahahahahahahahaha!!! Yeah right)

Save the cad file or templates! I have a frame off bii project coming (or two)

 

[Teds Shed]

Well, I'm counting on you for knowledge. If I draw it, you can have the file. Help each other out