The 4.0 Swap was chump change compared to this - Look inside... | Page 18 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

The 4.0 Swap was chump change compared to this - Look inside...

Its pretty... Hows the oil puddle that my wife's POS left behind for you??? I'll dig out that kitty litter and get it down to you in the next day or two...

yeah come down here and sweep up this crap, its a pain in the ass to crunch around on this junk lol.

I was looking at progress thus far on the gaps in my fenders and realized I didn't want a hack job, and thats what I had on my hands if I continued where I was going with it. so I decided to do this;


photobucket-3858-1328135287742.jpg


Im going to build new tubs out of 18ga sheetmetal, there is a whole sheet of it at my buddies shop, and since he isn't here to stop me im going to use it haha. I might actually wait until Eric gets back and we boatside the vehicle, then I can build them off the new metal that ill have to put in there, in the meantime I can hook up some gauges and pull the tcase out. plenty of work to do on it and I have all the time in the world.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











And yes that tire is super worn out lol

What tire. All I see is a wide open area that in search for the rear roll bars after roof chop. Then from the rear part of the cage you can come off with supports to help support the rear fender frame whether round tube or square.
You can even use some heavy wall electrical conduit to build a fender frame on the inside or even the outside. Black pipe comes to mind also.
I'd also plan the cage so it acts as a structural support so when you add those long travel shocks that might just have to come up through the floor they will have something to tie into. Just my 2 cents.


Or just buggiey it and add fuel cell.
 






I'd also plan the cage so it acts as a structural support so when you add those long travel shocks that might just have to come up through the floor they will have something to tie into. Just my 2 cents.

as usual your right on the money Rick, I plan to run a tube parallel to the axle to act as a shock mount, that way I can run some 13-14" travel shocks. I want to make it strong enough that in the future when I want to link the back with coilover shocks it will be strong enough to support them. I may actually just come off the frame with a hoop tied into the crossbar, even a 12" coilover would be pretty awesome on the back, more travel than I have currently I can tell you. what length co's are you running Rick? still just a dream but it won't hurt to plan ahead.
 






man the forum is dead for the past couple of days, must have been the super bowl mania, I won a bet with my wife, (terms not to be disclosed) she thought the pats would win. I finished up cutting out the other fender so now im going to wait till Eric gets back and we will build some fenderwells and get started on the doubler.

Ive been working on my tow rig, its a 83 for f250 with a 460 and a c6. it sat in a field at my dads house for about 8 years. I asked him if I could use it and he said I could just have it, he felt bad it was getting neglected. this is the pickup we used on the family farm as long as I can remember, feeding cows etc, some of my earliest memories were of riding around in it, I remember once we were driving around with a new calf on the passenger floor board trying to find its mother, good memories. so the good things are the engine was rebuilt about 50000 miles ago and after we changed the oil and coolant and air and fuel filters we put a battery in it and poured some gas down the carb it fired right up, and it runs fairly well, but it wont start without priming it the first time, after it warms up it will start right back up. the trans fluid is pretty thin and old looking and the heater core is leaking like a sieve, and its smells like a giant pile of mouse **** and piss in there. I cleaned it pretty thoroughly so it is bearable to be in there but it still stinks, im going to tear the entire dash out and probably replace the seat as well, it doesn't have carpet just that weird for rubber floor so ill try and hose it out when its all apart. so today im going to tear into the dash and service the transmission, if I get to crazy with the bII im going to need to tow it some places, and if I have a reliable pickup then that will be no problem.
 






photobucket-5540-1328550221596.jpg


there is a picture of the old girl, I think I need to paint it as well, maybe ill use the same satin black that Rookieshooter used on Sampson, sounded like it was a pretty good system. anyone have any ideas on the hard starting? I figured I would rebuild the carb and change the plugs wires cap and rotor. Ive been spoiled with fuel injection so im not so great with vehicles that don't tell me what wrong with them. im sure Rookie or Broncobra could give me some suggestions on how to fix it, as I recall it had a hard time starting even before the 8 year siesta.
 


















ok now the gd bronco wont start, it will turn over all day but the fuel pump isn't priming and I doubt if I have spark. guess ill have to work on that instead, probably my poor wiring coming back to bite me in the ass.
 












long sit

Tow rig..hmmm might just mark the end of a B2 daily driver & beginning of a full time toy.

Start up on anything that sat for a long while especially one that you don't absolutely know was prepped for storage is just a process of elimination I start with the least exspensive and most probable on the list. Good news was that it's not frozen up and rotating parts are free. Don't recall if the 1983 had an inertia switch to kill the electric fuel pump, if electrics were used on that early a model, seems like the twin tank models had electrics...It initially fired and ran with prime on fresh gas. It's probably bad fuel, check fuel flow at the carb inlet using a can or large diameter hose to route the gas to a can...if flow is sufficient, thats a good thing, showing that fuel pump is functioning and lines/filters are open. That leaves the carb which could easily have been plugged up with gum and varnish from the long sit. Good cleaning and rebuild is a good idea, even if the problem lies somewhere else as the 460 has always been a thirsty beast and after a long sit that can only make it more fuel inefficient.

Don't force any more of the old gas through the carb past the initial line/pump flow test. Drop tank and flush it and the lines with fresh fuel, then reinstall along with filters and any defective pump along the line (if used). Air, fuel, spark, timing and compression. Process of elimination. I'd spend my time on the fuel first.
 






im an idiot, I realized when I was playing musical batteries I set the battery on the cable that is the ground for the power distribution box and it pulled the plug apart so I had no ground for the power distro box, thus no spark and no fuel pump, lesson learned.

the pickup ive had for about 5 months now, ive used it quite a bit and have driven it, it runs good after it starts but the first time on the day you start it it has a lot of trouble. I feel like it doesn't get enough fuel to start when you initially try, like something is messed up with the choke or accelorator pump in the carb. like I said im carburetor retarded, I just want the dang thing to be reliable. I did get it in and service the trans last night, the fluid looked ok but smelled like beef jerky, is that weird haha? so I pulled the plug on the tc and drained it all the way, added a quart of that lucas oil transmission stuff with the new fluid as well, drove it a bit and it made a huge difference, it engages better and and seems to have been livened up quite a bit. today im going to change out the heater core and then it will be street worthy again. like I said I really need to do something about that paint, or lack thereof haha.
 












Rattle Can Party at Jon's house... Choose your own color and bring it along!!!

yeah as long as its summit racing satin black like I previously said derp. but yeah heath come on down and start sanding
 






OK pickup is roadworthy once again, it has a heater and the transmission shifts properly, plus I cleaned it VERY thoroughly, no more mouse crap smell. So Ive mentioned how it didn't want to start for the first time but after I get it started it runs just fine, well its been in my garage for 2 day with the dash torn out, but when I went to start it it fired right up no problem, what the heck is up with that? so its super cold blooded for some reason, I'm going to look at the choke a little closer when I get some time, back to the bdos for now though.

I have a new tie rod from a grand cherokee that is solid rod instead of the tj one which is a 7/8" hollow tube that Ive already bent. Should be a very solid upgrade for the steering, so ill put all that together tonight. I need to do the timing belt and water pump on my honda then I can pull the bronco in to pull the tcase out, and we all know what that means, doubler time!
 






I'll come and do your T-Belt and H2O pump for you but I vote that you work on my Excursion after that and THEN the BII!!! Not that my vote counts, but thats how I'm voting anyway!!!

By the way did you get a new valve cover and spark plug gaskets for the Honda?
 






Heath lets be honest im probably going to get bored tomorrow night and finish the honda myself, it is however the one thing that you have more knowledge than me about, I guess ill wait. and no im not working on the excursion, it scares me. no I didn't get the valve cover gasket or spark plug stuff, guess ill run down and talk to Deano tomorrow.

on a bronco II note I did get my new tie rod swapped in, way beefier, its a 1" solid rod as opposed to the 7/8" hollow tube, it should work pretty dang good. here is a pic of my steering installed;

photobucket-6442-1328755036242.jpg
 















Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Featured Content

Back
Top