The Black Pearl SAS and build

[KurtECV]

Kind of an off day today and stuck at home while the wife was out of town so I figured I'd tie up some things on the rig that haven't been finished since we got the new house.

While at the old house I managed to get One of the extended radius arm reinforcing "C"s welded up and the completed arm painted and installed.

Then we bought the new house and all that running around that goes with it and haven't finished up the drivers side radius arm's "C". With a new cutting torch setup I figured I'd give it a shot and learn how to use it.

I got both cut out pretty close and finished it off on the belt/disk sander. Worked out pretty well because it just so happens that the roller on the sander is the same diameter as the inside of the C.

If I'm feeling froggy tomorrow I'll get The drivers side RA dismounted, welded and painted tomorrow

 

[KurtECV]

Well the picture of the front leg was completely black so there isn't a picture of that, but the two I have are of the middle leg and the rear.

The middle leg is just forward of the body mount. And the rear leg is just above front leaf spring hanger.

In the last picture you can see the the ebrake setup I have concocted. I have two right rear explorer ebrake cables, because of the lift the factory left rear cable was too short to use. The middle section of the cable is from a 2002 chevy 1500 extended cab truck I got from the local auto parts store.

 

[KurtECV]

Picked this guy up from a co-worker for $30 bucks with the full prewired harness.

20" bar so it will fit nicely on the main bar of the front bumper between the bars for the stinger.

 

[gmanpaint]

Progress is progress, no matter how small.

After you have them sliders painted, your going to hate how the frame looks. lol

Being that rig is from Cali, I'm surprised how much the frame flashed over, in just a couple of years.

Keep at it, it's coming together well!

 

[KurtECV]

Yeah. I think before i install the sliders i am going to throw a can of paint on the frame.

I used to think that was goofy as hell to do until Jacob did it to the Yota and it made it look 1000 times better.

 

[gmanpaint]

Use rust converter first. Turns the rust into black primer.

 

[KurtECV]

Whoo page 6.... I'm catching up to you GmanPaint

 

[KurtECV]

Use rust converter first. Turns the rust into black primer.

I'll have to Google that. I was just Going to throw some Rustoleum on it and call it good.

Edit: something like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Rust-Neutralizer-10-2-oz-Rust-Remover/4764091

 

[Spudhut]

Nicely Done...

 

[KurtECV]

Nicely Done...

What part? lol

 

[Spudhut]

the sliders and paint. Not many folks consider painting the frame

 

[gmanpaint]

No, has to be converter. I use CRC brand, and try to find it in the smaller pint or quart size bottles. Google CRC Rust Converter.

There are many brands of it out there, (like VHT) but CRC works real well, and does what it is supposed to with a single application. Goes a long way too, so the smaller bottle the better.

Don't bother with the rattle can stuff, as it is a waste. You want to push it on well, with a brush or mini roller nap. Can give it a flood coating, to where it drips off. You can leave it be, or use a primer for something else, like a rattle can spray, or roll on with an oil base.

 

[KurtECV]

the sliders and paint. Not many folks consider painting the frame

Thanks Spudhut. Its by no means a show truck, as you can most likely see by my welds (BUT a weld inspector for the government said they were good structurally, just not good enough for a pipeline LOL), But i have noticed what the Missouri road salt has done to it. Nothing too bad yet, nothing like i see at work

 

[KurtECV]

No, has to be converter. I use CRC brand, and try to find it in the smaller pint or quart size bottles. Google CRC Rust Converter.

There are many brands of it out there, (like VHT) but CRC works real well, and does what it is supposed to with a single application. Goes a long way too, so the smaller bottle the better.

Don't bother with the rattle can stuff, as it is a waste. You want to push it on well, with a brush or mini roller nap. Can give it a flood coating, to where it drips off. You can leave it be, or use a primer for something else, like a rattle can spray, or roll on with an oil base.

Ok I will look for some roll-on stuff

 

[KurtECV]

Not a whole lot to get done tonight. Figured instead of just welding brackets to mount the light bar, I'd just drill and tap straight into the main bumper tube.

126w, 8400 lum.
30 degree spot
60 degree flood.
IP68 Waterproof

 

[KurtECV]

Thinking about the drivers side slider and the location of the rear leg (above the forward leaf spring mount), I think i am going to cut and sleeve it for easy removal in the future and not have to worry about dropping the tank.

The original idea was to remove the tank, drill the holes, and tack weld the bolts permanently into the frame.

I may tack weld the rest of the bolts as well. Nothing too crazy, just to keep them in place but easily removable with a good strike with a chisel.

What say the peanut gallery?

 

[gmanpaint]

Deciding on bolt on, or weld on applications, are a choice made for the individual person.

What are the reasons you would want them removable? How often would you need to remove them?

For me, the weld on legs, for these light weight style sliders was an easy choice. If something happens to the rig, and I want to keep them, I can just cut the legs off, and replace them.

As for the half slide leg we discussed for that rear leg, it would work just fine. Your sliders are shorter than the 4 doors, and they have 3 legs like the 4 door sliders. 2 legs would have been fine, and with 3 legs, they will be overbuilt (which is fine).

With that said... The other 2 legs will bolt it tight and can handle the weight themselves. The rear leg with a pin bolt holding the sleeve to the mount tube, will add extra support, and there will be no slop (bounce) with the other 2 mounts holding it tight.

You can make the weld on rear tube mount extend from the frame around 6" long, so it doesn't stick out much when the slider is mounted, and still have an open space to insert the pin bolt easily. I would make the frame side tube the smaller OD, with a thicker wall. The slider side tube slides over that and almost reaches the frame, with 1 or 2 grade 8- 7/16" or 3/8" bolts, with a long shoulder.

I would not tack weld the bolts, just use Nylock nuts.

 

[KurtECV]

I don't think they will come off very often at all, but you never know what might happen in the future. Might have to have the LS exhaust system run along the outside of the frame (which i have seen done a lot, for a bunch of different rigs/engines.)

That was kind of the idea I had. I already have the nylocks installed on the front two legs.

I was thinking about cutting the tube, inserting a section of tube (or I do have the factory 78 F150 trac bar which is solid steel BTW), into the frame side, plug weld the sleeve into THAT tube and drill a good hold through the sleeve and tube (on the slider side and bolt it.

 

[KurtECV]

Random thought at work...

2WD/4HI/4LO switches might get changed to "Parley" (2WD), "Pillage" (4HI), and "Plunder" (4LO)

 

[KurtECV]

New heim joints should be in the mailbox today from Barnes4WD.

Its now or never if i am going to adjust the suspension/ride height before i start cutting DOM for the trac bar and drag link