the never ending clunk

[EliteConcept]

ok so i have this clunk on my 97 sport happens on and off over small bumps in the road (really noticable where they peice roads together). so far this is what i've done
its coming from the drivers side from what i can tell, i feel it most by my feet, my girlfriend feels it slightly on her side but not as much.

1. new shock on drivers side
2. New sway bar end links
3. Did ball joint check, lifted truck, gripped top and bottom of tire and checked for play, there wasn't any play, maybe a small amount but none that was tooo noticable.

The only other thing i can think of is the kevlar padding on the torsion bar. i know its a cheaper fix but i hear the labor is somewhat involved.

any other thoughts?

 

[EliteConcept]

bump anyone got any other ideas?

 

[X~FACTOR]

Clanking is very frustrating, isn't it Elite. I wish I could help track it down for you. Don't give up just keep eliminating all possibilities- from cheapest to the most expensive part.

btw, did you try unbolting the shocks first before you bought that one shock, like I suggested?

 

[dogfriend]

Originally posted by EliteConcept


any other thoughts?

I am assuming its 4wd.

Did you know that the bushing that holds the front diff to the frame is right under your feet on the drivers side? This came up in another thread. I posted some pictures in that thread:

Something Fell Off

I would check to make sure those bushings are tight, maybe check motor mounts and rack mounts also.

 

[EliteConcept]

well i did just unbolt the shocks at first but then i tought ehh as long as the bottom is undone might as well just throw a new one on
still no luck

 

[jbeckett]

Hey Elite, I have a very similar sound from my '97 AWD, right turns only (usually pulling into a driveway, but can happen on a flat RH turn too). It sounds almost like a metallic *pop* like when you break a rusted nut loose. Last week, I replaced all 4 shocks (needed to be done anyway) & replaced both t-bar adjusters. The kevlar patch was worn completely off on both. I also put warrior shackles on & did the infamous t-twist. The noise went away completely for a day but came back I'm feeling your pain (& confusion)

 

[jbeckett]

BTW, the t-bar adjusters are not as mean as they look. Just be careful when you're tightening the gear puller not to let it slip off & don't get your fingers inside the t-bar bracket when the t-bar is loaded, just in case the puller slips. If you have access to a gear puller with a bridge (basically a horizontal bolt that holds the jaws tight at the top), I'd go that way to minimize any chance of the puller slipping on you.

 

[BadAzzexplr]

Well, I read all your posts and had to respond. I have a 1997 Explorer 5.0 AWD. I experinced the same problem as you guys. I replaced the following:

-Front Shocks
- Ra Bushing
- Upper Ball & Lower Ball Joints
- Upper Control Arms (left & Right)
- Left & Right Tie Rod End
- Sway Bar Links

The thing that makes the squeak go away is the sway bar links, My orignal OEM ones lasted 50k, I replaced them with an aftermarket and they were chewed up within a matter of a week, with normal on road driving. I then replaced them with Moog Poly Utherane Bushings, worked great for a little while, but right side came back after a month.

I have pin pointed the problem when the squeak occurs and this is when you have the air condition on, because your compressor gives off water landing on the rubber bushing, causing the rubber to squeak.

I am really paticular about my truck and this drives me nuts because it won;t go away. I am going to try replacing them with FORD Links. I hope this works and will let you guys know.


Also if you hear that noise its probably 99.5% related to Sway Bar Links and alot of times a mechanic cannot pinpoint it because the they remain tight on a lift, because your wheels are hanging down. To check it cut your steering wheel all they way and shake that paticualr side of the truck you will see the bushing rocking or loose.

 

[howellru]

Originally posted by BadAzzexplr

Also if you hear that noise its probably 99.5% related to Sway Bar Links and alot of times a mechanic cannot pinpoint it because the they remain tight on a lift, because your wheels are hanging down. To check it cut your steering wheel all they way and shake that paticualr side of the truck you will see the bushing rocking or loose.

Don't happen to have or know were I can see a pic of sway bar links?

Thanks,

hru out

 

[EliteConcept]

here you go

 

[EliteConcept]

and another just for good measure

 

[Brans Freestyle]

if your still getting the clunk and the feeling in the floorboard, have you checked the brake caliper? i just started getting a clunking sound and feeling it under the floor yesterday. i had my friend check it out in auto class today and he said the caliper was lose and rattling around. he took the rotor off and turned it and then put everything back in and it was all fine. but when i got off the freeway going to work right now it started again going over speedbumps so i guess theres more to it than that

 

[etc]

Shouldn't that bolt be right side up, as in the nut on the bottom?

 

[howellru]

Originally posted by EliteConcept
and another just for good measure

Man, I love pics. Thanks a lot, Elite. So, are sway bar links standard issue on Explorers and are the only bolted on at the tops?

Thanks,

hru out

 

[BadAzzexplr]

those are bolted incorrectly, they are suppose be on the bottom. I replaced my links with ford ones and I think I got the problem solved. Ford links have plastic casing over the bushing so they don;t flex with different road conditions, the aftermarket ones just can;t duplicate the OEM this time.

 

[howellru]

Bazz,

I thought the aftermarket poly bushings were superior to OEMs. You saying that's not the case? What problem were you having the the links solved; popping front end?

hru out

 

[EliteConcept]

i am not sure but i don't think it makes a huge differnece in which way the bolt goes....its some what easier if you have it on top since you have to turn it.
unless someone knows that it REALLY makes a huge difference, if htats the case please let me know because i still have a clunk

 

[etc]

I don't think the clunk is coming from the bolt being upside down. However, with the bolt upside down, should the nut fail for whatever reason the bolt is more likely to slide out of place than if it was right side up. I know, I know this is really really extreme and highly unlikely but you never know.

 

[dogfriend]

As long as you are able to torque it to the correct spec, and it seats properly at both ends (I can't tell about the end under the lower A-arm) I really don't think it matters.

 

[EliteConcept]

do they require alot of torque?