Solved Theft Mode Issues

[DemonMudder]

It’ll need programmed in with the appropriate scan tool. (Or FORScan)

Okay, well that gives me a little hope. Just hoping they can get to it sooner than later. Running out of options when it comes to borrowing a truck. lol

 

[J_C]

But if my key chip is damaged, they can still match a new key to the ignition, right?

Yes a new key can be programmed in, but you are going down a path of assumption that it is the key chip damaged and while that is one possibility, it is, based on past owner reports and resolution needed, less likely than some other fault.

A compatible code reader and app (like Forscan) will retrieve specific codes for PATS problems. Here is a list taken from the below-linked topic:

98 Explorer cranks doesn’t start security light flashing

Just got a 98 4.0 SOHC Eddie Bauer from my neighbor with 70k, original owner. It has one factory key and one copy both appear to be big head keys. It has been sitting for about 5-7 years. It cranks fine but has security light flashing so PAT'S problem I assume.

www.explorerforum.com

The above linked post also has a pic of blink codes from the dash light, which may or may not help.

 

[DemonMudder]

Yes a new key can be programmed in, but you are going down a path of assumption that it is the key chip damaged and while that is one possibility, it is, based on past owner reports and resolution needed, less likely than some other fault.

A compatible code reader and app (like Forscan) will retrieve specific codes for PATS problems. Here is a list taken from the below-linked topic:

View attachment 340377

98 Explorer cranks doesn’t start security light flashing

Just got a 98 4.0 SOHC Eddie Bauer from my neighbor with 70k, original owner. It has one factory key and one copy both appear to be big head keys. It has been sitting for about 5-7 years. It cranks fine but has security light flashing so PAT'S problem I assume.

www.explorerforum.com

P1260, is the code that it gave me. But it only said "Theft detected engine disabled"

 

[J_C]

My best guess is that your code reader cannot understand the more Ford-specific codes higher up on that pic, that when P1260 is set, some other code(s) should be set too. A standard OBD2-only code reader may pick up the P1260 but not the Ford specific codes starting with other letters than P, which is where Forscan comes in.

 

[DemonMudder]

My best guess is that your code reader cannot understand the more Ford-specific codes higher up on that pic, that when P1260 is set, some other code(s) should be set too.

P1260 and B1318, ignition voltage below 9 volts. That was both codes. Fun

 

[DemonMudder]

P1260 and B1318, ignition voltage below 9 volts. That was both codes. Fun

But that could be because I just set the battery connectors back on to mess with it. Didn't actually tighten them back down

 

[J_C]

?? Disconnect battery cable for a few minutes, make sure battery is fully charged, then fully reconnect battery, and measure with a multimeter to confirm it is near 12.6V.

If your voltage is low, all kinds of strange things can happen including the key chip not receiving enough power to work.

 

[DemonMudder]

?? Disconnect battery cable, make sure battery is fully charged, then fully reconnect battery. If your voltage is low, all kinds of strange things can happen including the key chip not receiving enough power to work.

The battery was only a few months old and I just smacked a new battery in when I picked it up the yesterday.

 

[J_C]

The battery was only a few months old and I just smacked a new battery in when I picked it up the yesterday.

But I'm trying to rule out as many variables as possible, am sort of puzzled that you would try it at all without battery clamps fully tightened down. Once you cause a fault condition, it may need reset, to disconnect battery, make sure it's charged, then reconnect fully.

 

[DemonMudder]

But I'm trying to rule out as many variables as possible, am sort of puzzled that you would try it at all without battery clamps fully tightened down. Once you cause a fault condition, it may need reset, to disconnect battery, make sure it's charged, then reconnect fully.

Because I tried half of it at 11 pm last night after work, wasn't the greatest idea, no. I've been leaving it completely disconnected when I'm not messing with it

 

[DemonMudder]

Because I tried half of it at 11 pm last night after work, wasn't the greatest idea, no. I've been leaving it completely disconnected when I'm not messing with it

I have tried starting it many times while the battery was 100% hooked up and it still did the same thing. Not sure if it ran that B1318 code though. I can test it tonight

 

[J_C]

Okay, then you've ruled that out, as long as the new battery still has a good charge level.

 

[donalds]

Battery cables
Grounds
Dirty or just bad

 

[CDW6212R]

In any event, the real test is when you turn the ignition on, what does the THEFT light do? If it flashes, don't waste battery power seeing if it will start.

With the THEFT light flashing occasionally in my 98 Mountaineer for the first year I had it, I finally learned that my random issue could be predicted by the theft light. Once I knew that the flashing theft light meant the engine would not start, I turned the ignition off, and then turned it back on. It would eventually not flash, and the engine would start and I could drive away. It happened rarely, maybe 2-5 times a month. After I read about the components of the system and what others had done, discovered, I removed the plastic cover around the column and key. The transponder was not attached very well.

I'm not saying that's your issue, but that you need to watch the THEFT light. Do not try to start the engine unless that light stays on and does not flash with the ignition on. Once that happens, it may start if the battery is charged and nothing else is wrong with the engine etc. That's all the PATS system does, it verifies that a proper key code has been received prior to the engine starting.

 

[DemonMudder]

In any event, the real test is when you turn the ignition on, what does the THEFT light do? If it flashes, don't waste battery power seeing if it will start.

With the THEFT light flashing occasionally in my 98 Mountaineer for the first year I had it, I finally learned that my random issue could be predicted by the theft light. Once I knew that the flashing theft light meant the engine would not start, I turned the ignition off, and then turned it back on. It would eventually not flash, and the engine would start and I could drive away. It happened rarely, maybe 2-5 times a month. After I read about the components of the system and what others had done, discovered, I removed the plastic cover around the column and key. The transponder was not attached very well.

I'm not saying that's your issue, but that you need to watch the THEFT light. Do not try to start the engine unless that light stays on and does not flash with the ignition on. Once that happens, it may start if the battery is charged and nothing else is wrong with the engine etc. That's all the PATS system does, it verifies that a proper key code has been received prior to the engine starting.

I've left the key in for 15 minutes and it will stop flashing, completely off, but it still won't start. What does the transponder look like? I think I found it when I pulled crap apart this morning but I'm not 100%. I did make sure everything I could see was plugged though. Going to a store to have them test the batteries, just to be sure, in the morning.

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't leave the ignition on for very long. The theft light should come on with the ignition, and in a moment just be lit without flashing. If it flashes regularly a moment after the ignition is turned on, then turn it back off immediately, the key code test failed. You can turn it on and back off again multiple times to see if the issue is intermittent. If it keeps flashing and never stops just after the ignition is on, then it's a hard key code failure that may require a different key.

The PATS receiver is attached right below the column where the key cylinder is, the plastic part that holds it on is a light blue, it stands out clearly.

 

[DemonMudder]

Don't leave the ignition on for very long. The theft light should come on with the ignition, and in a moment just be lit without flashing. If it flashes regularly a moment after the ignition is turned on, then turn it back off immediately, the key code test failed. You can turn it on and back off again multiple times to see if the issue is intermittent. If it keeps flashing and never stops just after the ignition is on, then it's a hard key code failure that may require a different key.

The PATS receiver is attached right below the column where the key cylinder is, the plastic part that holds it on is a light blue, it stands out clearly.

Okay, so it is the piece I thought it was. Also, different key, like a second key or like a whole new key and cylinder?

 

[CDW6212R]

...

The PATS receiver is attached right below the column where the key cylinder is, the plastic part that holds it on is a light blue, it stands out clearly.

That uses proximity to receive the key code. People have taped a key(with a proper stored code) onto the receiver there and used a different key in the cylinder to start the engine. That PATS receiver must detect a proper key every time the engine is cranked.

What it's checking for is the key code, not the shape of the key to turn the ignition on. Every key should have a unique code in it(forget the cloned crap), the PATS module stores the codes that have been added by the operators. It compares each key(its code) attempted, to the stored codes. If it matches, then it allows the fuel pump to keep running.

 

[DemonMudder]

That uses proximity to receive the key code. People have taped a key(with a proper stored code) onto the receiver there and used a different key in the cylinder to start the engine. That PATS receiver must detect a proper key every time the engine is cranked.

What it's checking for is the key code, not the shape of the key to turn the ignition on. Every key should have a unique code in it(forget the cloned crap), the PATS module stores the codes that have been added by the operators. It compares each key(its code) attempted to the stored codes.

And since my key won't do it? I need a new key programmed into the PATS, right?

 

[CDW6212R]

If you don't have any good key codes, the normal process is to erase the old codes, and then any key will work without further tools. The new Forscan etc, devices and components, have their own procedures I'm not sure about. I doubt they simply add a new key code in, maybe they do. The ideal thing would be to erase the PATS module of all codes.

When the PATS is empty, anyone can add a new first key, the normal programming method will work(minus the use of a prior keys). The 1st key is added most easily and quickly. Then a 2nd key will require the 1st be inserted as described in the programming procedure, and then the new 2nd key. After that, it requires two proper key codes plus any new key being added.

So look into the Forscan and ELM etc, items. You will benefit from them for other things later for sure. At a total price that sounds like under $40, everyone should have those and be getting used to what they can do.