Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff

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I have finally received the correct puller for the bearing , the damaged one took some effort but the other side was easy and the oil seal and bearing came off together.
The next stage is getting the new bearing and oil seal inserted but again I find that the extractor / installer kit I purchased is not good enough to re-install the bearing and oil seal and I have to purchase an installation kit.
I appreciate the advice of hiring but mechanics tools are rarely on hire here as amateur mechanics are frowned on and the only one available is a three hr drive away.
I am not being sarcastic, but apparently tools for hire are a popular item in the US, not here.
I am looking for advice on greasing the new bearings, normally you use the Diff lubricant for this , but again I have been screwed by delivery failures. Is it OK to manual apply grease to both bearing to allow the assembly of the whole system prior to the Diff Oil arriving
 



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The axle needs a vent at all times.

As temps fluctuate, pressures build & decrease. The pressure changes is released/introduced somewhere. Without a vent, the axle seals is where it will happen.

When you say the vent is blocked off, please describe as to how it was done. A plug in the rubber tube, the tube removed and the metal tube blocked off, etc...
 






I'm sorry that link didn't work, I also checked it and it failed.

I was just trying to show you what the proper tool looks like. The tool kit comes with three sizes, they have a pivoting piece which folds in to get through the bearing, and you expand it once inside. Then the slide hammer will easily pull the bearing out. It's about a 10 second process to yank an axle bearing with the tool.

I have removed the bearing a few times before the tools were available. Each time was a long process of scrounging up available objects to get inside to do it. The easiest to make up was an old axle, and c-clip, plus a thin piece of steel placed along the axle when inserted. But that was not easy to make it work, it took a long time, and I didn't want to do that again.

BTW, if anyone hasn't seen the axle bearing tools, search for "gearwrench 41710", that should pull it up, Amazon does have multiple choices and other brands.
The bearing puller I finally got was used with a slide hammer and only AU$25, as I already had the slide hammer it was a cheap purchase, manufactured in good old USA.
 






The axle needs a vent at all times.

As temps fluctuate, pressures build & decrease. The pressure changes is released/introduced somewhere. Without a vent, the axle seals is where it will happen.

When you say the vent is blocked off, please describe as to how it was done. A plug in the rubber tube, the tube removed and the metal tube blocked off, etc...
The axle needs a vent at all times.

As temps fluctuate, pressures build & decrease. The pressure changes is released/introduced somewhere. Without a vent, the axle seals is where it will happen.

When you say the vent is blocked off, please describe as to how it was done. A plug in the rubber tube, the tube removed and the metal tube blocked off, etc...
The vent tube is no longer there, the opening on the axle casing has a clamp on the vent
 






Just find a hose to fit that vent nipple, and route it up and hanging from the cross member above there. It had a small filter part at the end originally, to keep out debris. But versus not having any hose before, just adding a hose will be much better.

Most of us install the bearings and seals with cheap very large sockets. We typically all own a cheap 3/4" socket set, and those will work for installing most seals etc. I got mine from Harbor Freight for about $40, decades ago when HF didn't have any stores, and shipping was free for most items.
 






The vent tube is no longer there, the opening on the axle casing has a clamp on the vent
As mentioned you gear oil will heat up and it’ll find a way to vent. Almost always through your new seals.

It needs a vent.
 






Old axle bearings will not survive the removal ordeal, no matter what method is used. All that matters is the bad ones are out, and replaced with new.

Caveman methods, or high dollar snobbish specialty tools, whatever! Do what you have to do, it's just a bearing.
Your point is well taken but the aim is to get them out with the least damage to surrounds
s-l140.jpg

Just find a hose to fit that vent nipple, and route it up and hanging from the cross member above there. It had a small filter part at the end originally, to keep out debris. But versus not having any hose before, just adding a hose will be much better.

Most of us install the bearings and seals with cheap very large sockets. We typically all own a cheap 3/4" socket set, and those will work for installing most seals etc. I got mine from Harbor Freight for about $40, decades ago when HF didn't have any stores, and shipping was free for most items.
Good points unfortunately you are talking AU$60 and I can get a Chinese kit with multiple sizes forAU$31. Will look closer at the hose while I am waiting for some items to come in. The picture is the bearing puller I got for AU$25 locally
 






Excellent, that puller is one of the three in the common kits like I linked to. Buy that $31 socket set if it includes a dozen big sizes or more, and a couple of extensions. I hardly ever used the big ratchet it came with, that thing is really low quality steel.
 






There is a serious communication barrier here. What is being explained to you, is not being taken properly. Either we do not understand you, or you don't understand any of us.

Your replies reflect this. We would like to help you in a manner that makes sense to you, but in the end, we can only do so much. The free advice and help your getting here from the good will of our members, does have it's limitations. To help us help you, please add specific details when describing your questions or actions. Guessing only adds to frustrations, and can result in misinformation.

You can attach a quote, and reply in the same post. No need to double post.
 






Excellent, that puller is one of the three in the common kits like I linked to. Buy that $31 socket set if it includes a dozen big sizes or more, and a couple of extensions. I hardly ever used the big ratchet it came with, that thing is really low quality steel.
The installer set I have purchased has a round fitting to fit my bearings, after I am back on the road both the extractor/puller and the installer set will go up for sale. I really have little room in my 1bd apartment and I will sell them at discount for collection
 






A socket won’t hurt the “surrounds” which honestly don’t even matter. The bearing seat for these could be super scored, and make no difference. The bearing runs in its own race.

Without a vent, you’re looking at blowing at those new seals every time it’s heated. I’d just uncap the top, if nothing else.
 






There is a serious communication barrier here. What is being explained to you, is not being taken properly. Either we do not understand you, or you don't understand any of us.

Your replies reflect this. We would like to help you in a manner that makes sense to you, but in the end, we can only do so much. The free advice and help your getting here from the good will of our members, does have it's limitations. To help us help you, please add specific details when describing your questions or actions. Guessing only adds to frustrations, and can result in misinformation.

You can attach a quote, and reply in the same post. No need to double post.
Thanks for your comments, I was unaware that I was not clear in my comments or replies, apart from the fact I was completely ignorant of the requirements to repair this Diff, thanks to a professional mechanic just walking away from the job as too difficult.
I do appreciate the help all members have given me and was not aware of any misunderstandings. It would help if you gave me some examples of the serious communication barrier and explain what I am doing wrong.
The biggest problem between us is the common practice in US of amateur mechanics and the ease that they have in accessing spares for this car and obtaining tool hirings, neither practice is common in Aus but their help and advice is invaluable to me.
I have just signed up for a two year membership and would not feel right in continuing if I am causing a problem for members.
 






As mentioned you gear oil will heat up and it’ll find a way to vent. Almost always through your new seals.

It needs a vent.
With your strong reply , I will have a closer look at the end of the closed hose and will try to find a suitable hose to install.Thanks for the comments
 






It doesn’t necessarily have to get hosed to anywhere. The vent hose is just there to keep water and dirt from finding it’s way in. Any kind of filter that keeps out debris would be fine.
 






A socket won’t hurt the “surrounds” which honestly don’t even matter. The bearing seat for these could be super scored, and make no difference. The bearing runs in its own race.

Without a vent, you’re looking at blowing at those new seals every time it’s heated. I’d just uncap the top, if nothing else.
I don't know why but sockets especially a 3/4" drive are extremely expensive, where a bearing installation kit is actually cheaper. There is a general view from members that the air vent is important, so as said elsewhere I will have a real examination and see if I can locate a suitable hose.
 






It doesn’t necessarily have to get hosed to anywhere. The vent hose is just there to keep water and dirt from finding it’s way in. Any kind of filter that keeps out debris would be fine.
Always open to ideas, thanks for this one
 






The axle needs a vent at all times.

As temps fluctuate, pressures build & decrease. The pressure changes is released/introduced somewhere. Without a vent, the axle seals is where it will happen.

When you say the vent is blocked off, please describe as to how it was done. A plug in the rubber tube, the tube removed and the metal tube blocked off, etc...
You are quite right, I didn't look close enough to determine if the vent had been closed off and how. I accept I was not giving it a priority and was concentrating on other things. I have come to realise how important it is and I will check it thoroughly and comeback to all of the interested members with what I find
 






Thanks for your comments, I was unaware that I was not clear in my comments or replies, apart from the fact I was completely ignorant of the requirements to repair this Diff, thanks to a professional mechanic just walking away from the job as too difficult.
I do appreciate the help all members have given me and was not aware of any misunderstandings. It would help if you gave me some examples of the serious communication barrier and explain what I am doing wrong.
The biggest problem between us is the common practice in US of amateur mechanics and the ease that they have in accessing spares for this car and obtaining tool hirings, neither practice is common in Aus but their help and advice is invaluable to me.
I have just signed up for a two year membership and would not feel right in continuing if I am causing a problem for members.

You are doing okay for an amateur and with the difficulties of overseas parts, and tool issues. We have a lot of members come in and purposefully create issues, or have poor speaking/grammar habits that are difficult to understand, or put up with.

I know you are trying, and that makes it worth while for the better members to help you. Keep at it, patience and effort are priceless for working on a vehicle.
 






You are doing okay for an amateur and with the difficulties of overseas parts, and tool issues. We have a lot of members come in and purposefully create issues, or have poor speaking/grammar habits that are difficult to understand, or put up with.

I know you are trying, and that makes it worth while for the better members to help you. Keep at it, patience and effort are priceless for working on a vehicle.
Thanks for your comments, I was extremely embarrassed to think I was creating problems.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

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Naw, no problem. You’re keeping at it, which is what counts most of the time.
 






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