Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff

[Scotsman01]

the vent tube on this axle is located on the drivers side tube, the small metal nipple that accepts a rubber hose, the hose leads up to the frame where it terminates into a vent cap.

View attachment 324816

Remove rubber hose, blow compressed air through fitting into the axle tube
Then blow through the rubber hose, make sure it is free and clear and can breathe, then hook it back up

As I do

the vent tube on this axle is located on the drivers side tube, the small metal nipple that accepts a rubber hose, the hose leads up to the frame where it terminates into a vent cap.

View attachment 324816

Remove rubber hose, blow compressed air through fitting into the axle tube
Then blow through the rubber hose, make sure it is free and clear and can breathe, then hook it back up

As I do not have access to compressed air I will look at it and see if there is an alternative. Thanks for the photo

 

[CDW6212R]

If that vent tube is not attached above the rear housing where it belongs, say hanging down, that could tell you it's got stuff inside it. Normally it's clipped to a cross member above. The small cap on the end is to keep debris out, you may or may not be able to blow through it. It'll be nasty, I've never thought to need to blow through that hose. If I did, I'd remove the cap carefully and blow through the end.

Here's one of my pictures that someone else traced a line along the vent hose.

 

[Scotsman01]

If that vent tube is not attached above the rear housing where it belongs, say hanging down, that could tell you it's got stuff inside it. Normally it's clipped to a cross member above. The small cap on the end is to keep debris out, you may or may not be able to blow through it. It'll be nasty, I've never thought to need to blow through that hose. If I did, I'd remove the cap carefully and blow through the end.

Here's one of my pictures that someone else traced a line along the vent hose.

View attachment 324821

I am really impressed by the amount of members willing to help and the information they and you supply. I will follow this up

 

[Scotsman01]

Sorry guys
The reason for no correspondence is I have been trying to get a mechanic/tools to replace the bearings & seals, but none of them are interest when I tell them I will complete the job.
Had to purchase a puller which is coming and the replacement diff oil seems to be on a slow boat from china. That particular oils is not readily available in Aus and the only supplier is still waiting for his consignment.
Don't give up on me, I intend to see this all the way through now but it seems to be one problem after another
Cheers

 

[CDW6212R]

One of my rears is whining a bit more lately, I hope it's an axle bearing and not the diff. bearings or gears. I have all of the parts and tools to do it, but I have to round them up, they are scattered around my garage.

 

[Gary Crist]

One day in a pinch to remove axle bearing with-out a puller,
I used a few 36 inch extensions through the axle tubes to the other side.
Then "tap" the bearings out.

 

[Scotsman01]

One of my rears is whining a bit more lately, I hope it's an axle bearing and not the diff. bearings or gears. I have all of the parts and tools to do it, but I have to round them up, they are scattered around my garage.

Try to pinpoint the problem before you dismantle anything, and once decided make sure you have All the tools that you will require before you start

 

[Scotsman01]

One day in a pinch to remove axle bearing with-out a puller,
I used a few 36 inch extensions through the axle tubes to the other side.
Then "tap" the bearings out.

I assume you removed all gears in the diff to do this, something I would rather avoid. Thats for the insight of nothing is impossible

 

[massacre]

If the axles are removed, I would think you should be able to go right through the center of the diff?

 

[Scotsman01]

If the axles are removed, I would think you should be able to go right through the center of the diff?

The replacement of the oil seals and both bearings and seals is all that will make all this crap worthwhile. To risk damaging the the bearing sleeves is a risk that I cannot afford. But do not be discouraged keep the ideas coming.
Fortunately I now have everything in hand including new shoes for the soiled shoes and time fortunately is one thing I have plenty off, being retired. All I have to does wait for the puller to start putting it all back together, by then the oil should have come.
Will keep in touch.

 

[gmanpaint]

To remove axle bearings, a small 3 jaw slide hammer works great. Auto parts stores here have them on loaner programs, or what they call a free rental.

 

[Scotsman01]

To remove axle bearings, a small 3 jaw slide hammer works great. Auto parts stores here have them on loaner programs, or what they call a free rental.

I have already ordered a specific Bearing puller, but I would be interested if someone has a photo of the small 3 jaw slide hammer setup as I did buy a Puller set but it did not work for me. The supplier was no help in setting the components up for the purchase. Already tried to source a hire but none available in my area, been there done that.
Still thanks for the suggestion.

 

[CDW6212R]

There are many axle bearing puller tool kits, and some really small jaw pullers like a pilot bearing tool can work. I bought this one from Amazon years ago, Gearwrench has become a good brand I think. Harbor Freight has a kit now that's closer to $25, when I was looking about $45 was good, not counting cheap brands.

3 piece rear axle bearing puller set - part# 41710; search for "gearwrench 41710".

Note that you will need a slide hammer tool to pull with those tools also. All of them here can be rented from local parts stores, but be careful, their return policies change often. Sometimes they have let people bring them back after weeks, but some the official time is a couple of days. The rental prices are much higher than the cost to buy the tool, so be sure to get it back in time.

 

[Gary Crist]

Once the axles are removed, one can see to the other side.
The spider gears do not have to be removed for the
"southern way".

 

[Scotsman01]

There are many axle bearing puller tool kits, and some really small jaw pullers like a pilot bearing tool can work. I bought this one from Amazon years ago, Gearwrench has become a good brand I think. Harbor Freight has a kit now that's closer to $25, when I was looking about $45 was good, not counting cheap brands.

3 piece rear axle bearing puller set - part# 41710; https://www.amazon.com/dp/GEARWRENCH/?tag=serious-20

Note that you will need a slide hammer tool to pull with those tools also. All of them here can be rented from local parts stores, but be careful, their return policies change often. Sometimes they have let people bring them back after weeks, but some the official time is a couple of days. The rental prices are much higher than the cost to buy the tool, so be sure to get it back in time.

As I have said previously I tried to find a hire supply here on the Gold Coast but none had a puller available. I have ended up buying a set but I am not sure how to use it as there was no user manual came with it. I tried a three leg internal puller set up which I guessed at but all I did was wreck the bearing and the seal. Tried the link supplied but amazon could not find the page, also tried the part no, no good.
Finally found the part on Ebay.Gearwrench, the one I have ordered is similar. The ones from Gearwrench are from USA with postage average out at AU$80, not economical. Stay with manufacturers recommended puller at AU$26.99

 

[Mbrooks420]

$80 is a deal if it actually pulls it. I wouldn’t expect much out of a $26 puller. For that price you can’t build them nice.

 

[gmanpaint]

Old axle bearings will not survive the removal ordeal, no matter what method is used. All that matters is the bad ones are out, and replaced with new.

Caveman methods, or high dollar snobbish specialty tools, whatever! Do what you have to do, it's just a bearing.

 

[CDW6212R]

As I have said previously I tried to find a hire supply here on the Gold Coast but none had a puller available. I have ended up buying a set but I am not sure how to use it as there was no user manual came with it. I tried a three leg internal puller set up which I guessed at but all I did was wreck the bearing and the seal. Tried the link supplied but amazon could not find the page, also tried the part no, no good.
Finally found the part on Ebay.Gearwrench, the one I have ordered is similar. The ones from Gearwrench are from USA with postage average out at AU$80, not economical. Stay with manufacturers recommended puller at AU$26.99

I'm sorry that link didn't work, I also checked it and it failed.

I was just trying to show you what the proper tool looks like. The tool kit comes with three sizes, they have a pivoting piece which folds in to get through the bearing, and you expand it once inside. Then the slide hammer will easily pull the bearing out. It's about a 10 second process to yank an axle bearing with the tool.

I have removed the bearing a few times before the tools were available. Each time was a long process of scrounging up available objects to get inside to do it. The easiest to make up was an old axle, and c-clip, plus a thin piece of steel placed along the axle when inserted. But that was not easy to make it work, it took a long time, and I didn't want to do that again.

BTW, if anyone hasn't seen the axle bearing tools, search for "gearwrench 41710", that should pull it up, Amazon does have multiple choices and other brands.

 

[Scotsman01]

If that vent tube is not attached above the rear housing where it belongs, say hanging down, that could tell you it's got stuff inside it. Normally it's clipped to a cross member above. The small cap on the end is to keep debris out, you may or may not be able to blow through it. It'll be nasty, I've never thought to need to blow through that hose. If I did, I'd remove the cap carefully and blow through the end.

Here's one of my pictures that someone else traced a line along the vent hose.

View attachment 324821 has been closed off

 

[Scotsman01]

I couldn't find the necessary vent tubing , but by using your photographs determined where it should be. It appears that the vent has been closed off and is no longer used. Someone mentioned it would cause a leaky oil seal after 20,000K. In my circumstance and with the hose no longer there I guess I will just look for the the leak in 20,000 k.