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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Jon, my thoughts exactly. However, the reason I want to use POP rivets is that the engine bay side is damn near impossible to access ( therefore I can't use a backing washer on that side ).
It's probably obvious to experts, but here's a tip for us rookies: Jack up, jack stand and remove the driver's side front wheel and pull out the lower wheel well skirt to get access to the engine side of the fix. There's no mention of this in the TSB but I have no idea how you'd ever get the nuts on the bolts if you don't do this.
When my broke i didnt have a lot of time to fix it so i tossed some sheet metal screws in it and its still hold over a year later....(seems pretty tight still too)
Thanks for the update! You have to realize that things like this come from the factory, and they make it in such a way that it's easier for them to manufacture. Not everything is made as a direct bolt on. You have pop rivets in the doors holding parts together. They are a pain to work with, but at the same time they're easier to assemble at the factory. Could you take a picture of your completed job, and post it?
I recently aquired a '97 Sport. On the drive home it ocurred to me that it had no balls at all. NONE! It could barely get out of it's own way. Having had the stretched throttle cable issue on my '99 XLT, I immediatlety suspected this and crawled under the dash. Boy was I in for a surprise. The throttle pedal bracket was not even attached to the firewall! It was just kinda laying there). The previous owner had already attempted to repair it with hugely oversized sheetmetal screws. They had pulled out.
I went with a permanent repair. I WELDED it! Yeah, fire was a concern. Got a little bit of smoke from the carpet backing material, but the bottle of water I had nearby took care of that. I imagine with a bit more careful preperation and shielding of the sparks/slag it wouldn't have been a problem. In all, took me about 2hrs. This includes dragging out the welder and putting it away, as well as fixing ther aforementioned stretched cable. WOW! Now I can really feel those 4.10 gears pulling.
I'm pretty sure there was a recall on this concerning the mounting bracket failing. I know I printed it out when I found it, I'll look for it and post back the link to what I printed.
Well im not going to lie... this was the most rediculous repair i have yet performed on my explorer.... good god i havent even heard of this before LOL
i had a 95 ranger that the bracket broke off in traffic wanna talk about driving like a idiot i had to tie wire the the throtle cable which was bad other then it was a 5spd that poor poor clutch.